Engine died, throttle weird sometimes
#1
Engine died, throttle weird sometimes
92 Ranger, new fuel pump, ec and fuel pump relays.
Been driving on and off since getting it running. Driving to store sbout half a mile away, and engine died. Would not start without putting pedal to the floor. Revved high, and drove home. Seems like it has an intermittent bogdown at times when gas pedal is slightly depressed.
Fully warmed up engine at home and headed for store again. Good until 3rd gear, tried to accelerate in 3rd and felt like power was half there. Got to store. When trying to start up, had to again put gas pedal to the floor to start. Got home.
Any ideas from you guys?
Trying to get this reliable before registering.
Only other problem I have is flat spots in tires. Sat in same spot for 10 years or so. Thanks...Ken
Been driving on and off since getting it running. Driving to store sbout half a mile away, and engine died. Would not start without putting pedal to the floor. Revved high, and drove home. Seems like it has an intermittent bogdown at times when gas pedal is slightly depressed.
Fully warmed up engine at home and headed for store again. Good until 3rd gear, tried to accelerate in 3rd and felt like power was half there. Got to store. When trying to start up, had to again put gas pedal to the floor to start. Got home.
Any ideas from you guys?
Trying to get this reliable before registering.
Only other problem I have is flat spots in tires. Sat in same spot for 10 years or so. Thanks...Ken
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
1992 Ranger
Engine?
2.3l, 2.9l, 3.0l, or 4.0l, 4 options in 1992, lol
Check Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
Has the Return Fuel hose connected AND a vacuum hose, remove vacuum hose and check it for gasoline
If FPR leaks raw fuel can be sucked into intake via this vacuum line, causing flooding and low power
The 4 engines have this in common
Engine?
2.3l, 2.9l, 3.0l, or 4.0l, 4 options in 1992, lol
Check Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) on the engine
Has the Return Fuel hose connected AND a vacuum hose, remove vacuum hose and check it for gasoline
If FPR leaks raw fuel can be sucked into intake via this vacuum line, causing flooding and low power
The 4 engines have this in common
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
1992 2.3l uses separate ICM(ignition control module), these could fail when warmed up
Located on the lower intake front side behind fan for better cooling
While there is a test for them it can't show it works OK after warm up, so....................
Also dual spark plugs and coil packs
Both spark plugs in each cylinder fire at the same time to make better power, the point of dual spark plugs, thats the benefit
Down side is you won't know if only 1 spark plug is firing without testing
1992 may still have the "spark inhibitor" circuit, it disables drivers side coil pack/spark plugs during cranking/startup, this was to, "in theory", give a hotter spark to passenger side coil and plugs, but didn't matter so was dropped for sure in 1995
So to test the 4 spark plugs on each side unplug the 3 wire connector on a coil pack to disable it and its spark plugs, either while engine is idling or before startup(assuming no inhibitor)
If working side has a steady misfire then you have a bad plug or wire on that side, test it once a year or so, up to you
The 2.3l engine ran only 4 spark plugs from 1974 thru 1988 and ran just fine, and still will, just better power with 2 per cylinder
DOHCs with 4 valves per cylinder made even better power gains so the dual spark plugs gave way to newer tech
Located on the lower intake front side behind fan for better cooling
While there is a test for them it can't show it works OK after warm up, so....................
Also dual spark plugs and coil packs
Both spark plugs in each cylinder fire at the same time to make better power, the point of dual spark plugs, thats the benefit
Down side is you won't know if only 1 spark plug is firing without testing
1992 may still have the "spark inhibitor" circuit, it disables drivers side coil pack/spark plugs during cranking/startup, this was to, "in theory", give a hotter spark to passenger side coil and plugs, but didn't matter so was dropped for sure in 1995
So to test the 4 spark plugs on each side unplug the 3 wire connector on a coil pack to disable it and its spark plugs, either while engine is idling or before startup(assuming no inhibitor)
If working side has a steady misfire then you have a bad plug or wire on that side, test it once a year or so, up to you
The 2.3l engine ran only 4 spark plugs from 1974 thru 1988 and ran just fine, and still will, just better power with 2 per cylinder
DOHCs with 4 valves per cylinder made even better power gains so the dual spark plugs gave way to newer tech
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