I fixed mine on a 2001 4.0 with a piece of heater hose, a smaller piece of vacuum hose that fit inside the heater hose so it wouldn't collapse and two hose clamps. All of this I had laying around. Fixed it two years ago and no problems since.

 

I have a similar problem. I found a bad hose coming from the EGR valve. Replaced the hose tonight and reset the code. Will see if it comes back tomorrow. Didn't see the crack during initial inspection.

 

That didn't fix it, So I bought some MAF cleaner, that didn't help either. But The elbow coming off the EGR into the intake does look like it's colapsing. So I think I'll try that next.



2003 Red 3.0

 

my truck has been throwing this code and i looked just for kicks and sure enough it was cracked

 

"F8UZ-6762-AA"

is this the confirmed part number? im getting these codes now and am looking at replacing it tomorrow.

 

i took a trip to the dealer this afternoon, told them what i needed and what they came to me with was the entire PCV hose with both elbows. said that you cant get it with just the elbows....entire plastic hose WITH elbows was $37

 

no its not a free fix...with a tsb the manufacturer will list it under a certain warrenty i.e powertrain but if your outside that warrenty you have to pay out of pocket

 

I think my dealer charged $46 for the complete assembly

 

Under acceleration I hear a whistle from under the hood, almost sounds like a turbo spooling up. And while stopped it has a ruff idle, which at times causes the CEL to flash. I've tried to track the noise but seems to be coming from the driver side of the throttle body where the EGR is mounted. I had started to think it was the E3.54 plugs I had installed.

 

you have a misfire check and make sure you have the plug wires on correctly

 

I've checked and re-checked.
It has codes P0054 HO2S heater resistance (bank 1, Sensor 2), P0300 Random misfire, P0303 CYL #3 Misfire, & P0316 Misfire in the first 1000 revolutions. The truck has an off-road Y pipe on it and I'm considering installing a free flow cat to take that out of the equation. I worked for a Ford dealer a few years back and the service dep. wont even look at a modified veh. for diagnostic.

 

Check o2 sensor upper on the bank the code is. If aroud 100000 miles good to change anyway it like doing tune up. Make sure to reset ecm disconnect battery for 20 min if u don't when u start up it will race out of control for minute and won't run as good

 

does anyone have a pic of this 'elbow' ? I assume its the connection between the vacuum line and the egr itself but that seems too simple. I too am trying to get rid of P0401.

 

Thank God I found this thread. My truck has had those codes for close to 2 years and the hole in that hose was at least an inch long. I had an elbow that worked that I had saved in tool box which worked great for a replacement. I unpluged battery so codes would be gone. I am willing to bet it will run so much better and hopefully get better mpg. Time will tell as work week starts again tomorrow. Thx again for the info en.

 

I'm new to this forum and wanting to provide input for the P0171 and P0174 codes.

I read through all of the internets to find a solution to the codes, replace/clean mass air flow sensor, replace vacuum lines, etc etc. Tried all that and the code didn't go away.

Today I purchased a WIX Fuel Filter (O'Reilly Part # 33409) (sorry if that's a bad product, I know little to nothing about car part manufacturers) because I had a feeling my truck was about due for one. After I installed it and started the engine, the 'Check Engine' light went off immediately. The engine sounds a hell of a lot stronger at idle now and has a noticeable increase in power going through the gears.


I just got back from a 20 mile stress drive to see if there were any leaks or whatever and the Check Engine light still has not come on. Ran the diag ODB tool and nothing reading from the computer. Hope this helps someone!

This was for a 2000 Ford Ranger 4.0 OHV.

 

"Wix" filters are good products.

 

ok ok. i have been dealing with the egr blues for 3 years. yes 3 years and now i need to pass smog. I have cleaned the valve, replaced the inlet tube (i snapped the old one) cleaned the MAF, and replaced the dpfe. still have the light. does anyone have a picture of this magical elbow. i have a 99 2.5l ranger. i would love to find this little bugger and inspect it. otherwise, any advice on next actions? my truck is stalling in the morning at the first stop sign i hit then doing ok. should i replace the hoses connecting to the egr? or clean them? if so which ones? Thaaank you!