Hello, I've been trying to search and see if there is a way I can convert from my always locked hubs to something I can disconnect, weather that be vacuum or classic get out of the car style. Does this exists? (Maybe I'm stupid and it does, I just seem to can't find it anywhere)
​​​​​​Thank you!!!!!

 

It does exist. You have to swap your hubs and CV axles with ones from a 98-99 Ranger 4x4 which originally had pulse vacuum hubs. That will allow you to bolt up these below.

Locking Hubs - 1999 Ford Ranger | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)

 

Hubs and cv's would bolt right up?

 

How-to with pictures seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...o-manual-hubs/

But why?

Just as a heads up and my opinion
The problems I have encountered in 4WD systems is from LACK OF USE, not over use
When the hubs are unlocked and transfer case in is 2WD then front differential and CV or u-joints don't move, nor does the front driveshaft CV/u-joints, nor does the chain drive in transfer case
Now if you use 4WD once a month then everything stays lubed up
If you only use 4WD a few times a year then you have DRY starts, and thats when you get the most wear, thats when stuff breaks and you get "I never used 4WD and did today and it doesn't work?? WTF!!!", lol, thats because you never used it

Now miles do count, don't get me wrong, but how often do you need to change the u-joints on rear driveshaft, or the rear wheel seals, not much, lol, and they get used daily
So as far as wear and tear, full time use last longer than part time unless that part time is once a month so things can't dry out
Just my opinion

 

I think it is a great idea… if it can be done!

Is there a list of parts needed for this swap ?

 

Yes, in the link RonD gave in the post right above yours, post #4

 

Funny I read that post and I didn't see that link... RonD, did you add the link ? LoL !

Get'n OLD !

Thanks

Ltr

Added: My '88 STX had OEM manual hubs (5.0L too), I can't give you an exact amount of times I locked them in a month or a week in the six years I owned the truck but some weeks/months they never got locked, but I didn't have any problems with them.
My thought is you need to use the correct waterproof (RED) lube when assembling them and do maintenance on them after a mud run or just a good trail run; there's a trick with everything.

Im thinking that the Axles(CVs) and Diff are turning even if we think they aren't or at least there is a drag from the locking points, why... because If I'm going down hill in 2WD and I put the truck in neutral, the will slow down, unless it is a steep hill, something is dragging, I've check the brakes so I'm thinking it isn't them and it has always done this.

Friction from tires, yes, friction from oil in the trans, yes, but I've had other vehicles that always gained speed going down hill in neutral.
Might be worth the effort.

 

I strongly considered this but realized the cost and effort was hardly worth the conversion. Plus you end up with front wheel bearings that are smaller and weaker (in my opinion) than the original wheel bearings. That means more maintenance.

I also have a friend that did it on a 2003 L2. He liked it, but said he would not do it again. He loved to tinker with things and even dropped a 5.0 L engine in it. That was another thing he later questioned the if it was an improvement. He had ongoing overheating problems off-road and sometimes on road with long steep inclines. He did a very good install also. It looked like it came from the factory that way. He ended up with a drop in gas mileage and not much improvement in hp. It did have much improved torque though and it sounded great..

 

To be honest the biggest reason I would do it is gas mileage. But after looking into it. It may not be worth it... I am going to be overlanding this car with the tent on top so I would like every percentage of mpg I can get my hands on. But if that mens spending $400-$500 I may not see a return for many years.

 

I would think the MPG would get better with both the free-wheeling of the front end and the install of the 5.0L. When I installed a 5.0L in the '88 I got better milage and if you are Over-landing, the extra torque of the 5.0L should help and less gas pedal to get the job done.

Smaller bearings... OK not the best idea but they worked for me.
MPG - I got better MPG with the 5.0L and Manual Hubs.
5.0L - more torque, less throttle, less gas... win/win for Off-Roading !

I'm not really seeing a down side here !
Expense - Try adding some power to your 3.0L or a 4.0L... you would be talking a lot more money doing upgrades to the engine.

Has anyone done the Manual Hub Mod to a 2001 - up Ranger ?
What was the outcome ?
What was the total cost ?
What was the change in MPG ?

Thanks up-front for any info !

 

The difference in MPG with PVH and Live Axle, is 0.3MPG better with PVH(unlocked hubs), so not much but not 0 either

Say you get 17mpg, with 20gal gas thats 340miles
At 16.7mpg with 20 gal thats 334, so 6 miles less, cost is 1/3 of gallon of gas, so if gas was $3/gal the you save $1 for every tank full with unlocked front hub