My wheel fell off of my 150!!!! pics!!!
#51
After the shop installed the wheels on the truck , did you follow the fine print and recheck the lugs at 100 miles ?l. If not then don't blame the tire guy. Every tire shop I've ever been to has the statement on the bill .Lugs can loosen in 100 miles and should always be checked.
However I don't know if he bought new wheels at the time or not anyway.
#52
You can always call the dealer and ask them what the torque is. The torque isnt going to change with tire size.
#53
the wheels were on the truck when i bought it ans i havent had a problem until now.
the tires are all but a month old. the guy my dad and i typically take our trucks said it could take from 100-500 miles before the come loose enough to break the lugs. ill have to read into it more, all the paper work from my tires is still in my truck so ill have to wait until i get it bqck on monday.
the tires are all but a month old. the guy my dad and i typically take our trucks said it could take from 100-500 miles before the come loose enough to break the lugs. ill have to read into it more, all the paper work from my tires is still in my truck so ill have to wait until i get it bqck on monday.
#55
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I cant get a pic of the sheared lugs because theyre with the truck. but the damage is: new brakes, new axle, and a new rim. Id do it all myself, but the cost to have my truck towed back home would defeat the savings.
If asked 2 different sources now and they both have said loose lugs.... 3 sources including the forum. so once i get the truck back im going to contact the guy i took it too to have my tires put on and hopefully get this taken care of. at least half the cost... my brakes were already bad so ill have to subtract that.
the wheel went far but the rotor got wedged into the housing and got stuck until the tow truck came and dragged it up the ramp, then it fell off.
I just hope the impact of the axle didnt eff up my gears...
If asked 2 different sources now and they both have said loose lugs.... 3 sources including the forum. so once i get the truck back im going to contact the guy i took it too to have my tires put on and hopefully get this taken care of. at least half the cost... my brakes were already bad so ill have to subtract that.
the wheel went far but the rotor got wedged into the housing and got stuck until the tow truck came and dragged it up the ramp, then it fell off.
I just hope the impact of the axle didnt eff up my gears...
#57
there is no fine print on the receipt. I even read over my les schwab recepts from past brakes and tires and i havent seen anything on checking the lugs after 100 miles. now that i think about it ive never heard anyone say to check, i just did it on my own. go figure the one time i dont check them, crap hits the fan.
After looking at the rim closer and the studs closer, there is no doubt they were too loose.
After looking at the rim closer and the studs closer, there is no doubt they were too loose.
#58
WOW , EVERY tire shop I've dealt with had it on their receipt to check them at 100 miles. And I've been to a bunch of them in 30 years.
And contrary to a previous post , it doesn't apply to just aluminum wheels.Even steelies can loosen.
Don't get me wrong Brendon , I'm not saying this could be all your fault for not checking them . Usually the lugs don't loosen on their own , but anytime someone else has anything to do with your vehicle it is a good idea to check their work yourself.
The bright side is you're not in a coma from someone's mistake.
And contrary to a previous post , it doesn't apply to just aluminum wheels.Even steelies can loosen.
Don't get me wrong Brendon , I'm not saying this could be all your fault for not checking them . Usually the lugs don't loosen on their own , but anytime someone else has anything to do with your vehicle it is a good idea to check their work yourself.
The bright side is you're not in a coma from someone's mistake.
#59
#61
#62
One of the few times I had someone else work on my sport trac (after I swapped in a front diff, found out the pinion seal was bad), they fixed the pinion seal and put everything else back together. I left for a trip to the coast the next day, and kept hearing a rattle over bumps. Nothing felt loose, or looked loose. Driving down the highway I felt something something big hit the bottom of the truck, touched the brakes and had some nice screeching sounds. I stopped and found that I lost a front caliper bolt, and the caliper was wedged inside the wheel. I happened to notice then that one of the lugnuts was not on as far as the other, and found I think 3 on that side not even tight, I could tighten them with my fingers. I torqued the wheels (found some loose on the other side too), and drove to Napa and waited for them to open. I pulled the remaining caliper bolt and found it was also not tight, and there was no new loc-tite on there.
Needless to say, I HATE having someone else work on my stuff, and I try to check everything well after. When I had someone install the front shocks on the F150, I found that they ripped the front CV boot on one side from dragging the shock body across it.
Needless to say, I HATE having someone else work on my stuff, and I try to check everything well after. When I had someone install the front shocks on the F150, I found that they ripped the front CV boot on one side from dragging the shock body across it.
#65
#66
As for the retorque after 100 miles thing. Most shops hit the lugs with 150 ft/lbs from the impact and by over torqueing them they are very very unlikely to loosen up. Where I work we hand torque our lugs and request that everyone comes back to have them retorqued. Only once in a year and a half have we had a vehicle come back with all 5 lugs loose. Its a big deal when they do come back like that.
#67
If the holes on the rim are elongated (egg shaped) then it is a definate sign that those lugs were not tight when the lugs snapped. Those lugs either came loose or were never torqued down.
As for the retorque after 100 miles thing. Most shops hit the lugs with 150 ft/lbs from the impact and by over torqueing them they are very very unlikely to loosen up. Where I work we hand torque our lugs and request that everyone comes back to have them retorqued. Only once in a year and a half have we had a vehicle come back with all 5 lugs loose. Its a big deal when they do come back like that.
As for the retorque after 100 miles thing. Most shops hit the lugs with 150 ft/lbs from the impact and by over torqueing them they are very very unlikely to loosen up. Where I work we hand torque our lugs and request that everyone comes back to have them retorqued. Only once in a year and a half have we had a vehicle come back with all 5 lugs loose. Its a big deal when they do come back like that.
#69
I use to do most all of my own work, and I enjoyed. More correctly, I really enjoy upgrades and regular maintenance. I hate repairs. lol
So occasionally a repair (like the pinion seal) had me taking it to a shop.
Now that I moved, I don't have a jack and jackstands. For some reason I haven't bought them yet, although I finally convinced myself to by a new drill, circular saw and jig saw recently. I have plenty of tools otherwise. I think I'll buy a new floor jack and jack stand after my back is feeling a little better and the insurance stuff is settled. Maybe I'll get motivated to installed lowering springs/shocks on the Legacy so I'll know it is done right.
And by the way, I know it is always a good idea to re-torque wheels, but it generally isn't needed after the wheels and lugnuts have already seated. I had gone back to tire shops for re-torque (first car) even a few times after rotations and they told me I didn't need to, it was only for new wheels, although they did it anyway. If the wheels and lugnuts have been with the vehicle for some time, they shouldn't loosen up if they have been properly torqued.
#70
No kidding.
I use to do most all of my own work, and I enjoyed. More correctly, I really enjoy upgrades and regular maintenance. I hate repairs. lol
So occasionally a repair (like the pinion seal) had me taking it to a shop.
Now that I moved, I don't have a jack and jackstands. For some reason I haven't bought them yet, although I finally convinced myself to by a new drill, circular saw and jig saw recently. I have plenty of tools otherwise. I think I'll buy a new floor jack and jack stand after my back is feeling a little better and the insurance stuff is settled. Maybe I'll get motivated to installed lowering springs/shocks on the Legacy so I'll know it is done right.
And by the way, I know it is always a good idea to re-torque wheels, but it generally isn't needed after the wheels and lugnuts have already seated. I had gone back to tire shops for re-torque (first car) even a few times after rotations and they told me I didn't need to, it was only for new wheels, although they did it anyway. If the wheels and lugnuts have been with the vehicle for some time, they shouldn't loosen up if they have been properly torqued.
I use to do most all of my own work, and I enjoyed. More correctly, I really enjoy upgrades and regular maintenance. I hate repairs. lol
So occasionally a repair (like the pinion seal) had me taking it to a shop.
Now that I moved, I don't have a jack and jackstands. For some reason I haven't bought them yet, although I finally convinced myself to by a new drill, circular saw and jig saw recently. I have plenty of tools otherwise. I think I'll buy a new floor jack and jack stand after my back is feeling a little better and the insurance stuff is settled. Maybe I'll get motivated to installed lowering springs/shocks on the Legacy so I'll know it is done right.
And by the way, I know it is always a good idea to re-torque wheels, but it generally isn't needed after the wheels and lugnuts have already seated. I had gone back to tire shops for re-torque (first car) even a few times after rotations and they told me I didn't need to, it was only for new wheels, although they did it anyway. If the wheels and lugnuts have been with the vehicle for some time, they shouldn't loosen up if they have been properly torqued.
they have been with the truck since ive owned it.
#71
I get my tires at Sams Club and when I buy 4 new tires and get ready to pay and leave they make you SIGN a piece of paper stating that the lugs need re-torqued after 100 miles. TRUE STORY. I have the paper work to prove it and they have a carbon copy to prove they told me about it and my signature agreeing to it.
#72
Damn dude just LOLd the other day 'cause saw a 2010 siveraldo HD dully do the exact same thing while pulling a 5th wheel exept his was the front and he had 8 lugs. I thought it was funny being brand new chevy and already braking stuff. He did a genius job of getting off the road with out recking tho sence he was pulling a 30 foot RV
#73
#74
DO NOT assume that....every manufacture has their recommendations that they tested and tested and tested to be the proper torque for that application....so always follow their torque specs! As for the rangers, I do believe its 100 ft. lbs. but I just wanted to clear up any confusion what so ever...
#75
And just to follow up on this, I have heard that steel wheels because of the reverse stamping of the wheel, the tapered end that mates up with the lug nut acts as a "spring" to keep the lug nuts tight. This is not always true that why you should ALWAYS torque fasteners periodically. And also generally aluminum wheels do not have this "spring affect to the wheel" which makes them more apt to coming loose quicker. You guys also have to take heat into consideration....the tire heats up while driving, thus heating up the rim. Also, braking heats up the axle shaft/studs/disk. All of this together changes the properties of the metal, possibly shrinking/expanding of either the studs or lugs. So over time, these things CAN happen. It really does suck though when you read about this stuff and think nothing of it until it happens to you.
Hope everything gets sorted out for you man. Thats a good looking Ford!
Hope everything gets sorted out for you man. Thats a good looking Ford!