Need some advice. Loosing antifreeze - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #26  
Old 10-13-2011
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I can tell you from a little over 30 years of working on vehicles, that the most effective way to solve problems is to use a methodical, organized, step-by-step method of diagnosis and to avoid jumping all around. I can also tell you, from personal experience, that leak fixes in a can/bottle/tube, if they work, like to blow out (without warning) at a future date. This seems to prefer to happen on a hot day and in an inconvenient location. Don't rely on these crappy products unless reliability of of no concern, fix it right. Personally, I'd drain and flush that stuff out of there and refill. Coolant testers can be rented for little $ at many major chain auto parts supply stores.

You haven't indicated that this mechanic has done a pressure test. That is the next thing he should have done, after doing a careful visual on it. To jump to the conclusion that "it may cost more to fix than it's worth" without doing any diagnostics, would really make me wonder about a few things (and not my vehicle either). Of course, small talk is cheap and fair game. Does this guy fix and sell vehicles for sideline income?



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Originally Posted by Rascal View Post
those are some excellent ideas!! I'm going to tell the mechanic about this and see what he thinks. I still haven't had a chance to pull more plugs. Darn work intereferes with life.lolPersonally, I wouldn't spend one second pulling plugs until I had completed a pressure test and confirmed that there were no external leaks. Pressure test is much easier than pulling plugs, especially when at this point you haven't indicated that there is a good reason to (ie, excessive steam in the exhaust). Remember that first sentence I wrote in the top of this post; doing this saves time, money, and frustration.

I added a couple of litres of that new Rislone head gasket sealer stuff just to see if that helps. I have been keeping an eye on the coolant level in the overflow. Also, a new rad cap

Another thing to add here is that the previous owner put a brand new rad in it. For what reason? And new to the vehicle or new out of the box and then to the vehicle? And remember, just because a part is new doesn't assure that it's good.
-when the vehicle is shut off, after a good 50 miles, the upper rad hose is collapsed.It should draw coolant back into the system from the burp tank and not collapse the hose. Next time, before driving 50 miles, swap out the radiator cap from a known to be proper operating vehicle and see what happens. You should also inspect the rubber line between the radiator for blockage, collapse, pinched, and overall condition. Your upper rad hose is collapsing because the system is not able to draw coolant back from the burp tank as it cools, or it's not doing so correctly.
-when the truck is running, there is a consistant whirring sound. Sounds like power steering (not the squeal sound when bearings go) It is a consistant whirring sound. Rythimic with engine.I'm not there to hear it, but based on history I'd bet you are right.
-On cold start she will sometimes tick like mad then as it warms up, goes away. Doesn't do it all the time though.Could be lifter noise or wrist pin slap; the latter would tend to show up more on a warm engine. The OHV 4.0 is known for a little wrist pin noise, Ford issued a TSB on this in this like 15 years ago, if this is what you have and it's a very light sound it won't affect reliabililty or longevity.

This is the strangest thing!

Sure do appreciate the feedback. This is an awesome forum!! Very tolerant! lol

Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; 10-13-2011 at 07:26 AM.
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  #27  
Old 10-13-2011
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Oh I should have added more. This mech. Is genuin and no doesn't buy & sell. (I know what u mean) he is painfully honest. The only reason he hasn't done a pres. Test is because I
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  #28  
Old 10-13-2011
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oops. stupid android phones. I have not been able to leave the truck with him and had to pick it up early. I did however call him after reading these posts and he did say that while it was a good idea, the leak is to the inside and not outside. Because he is confident that the leak is internal, it could force antifreeze to the top of a piston and cause something to bend when running due to the pressure. Boy, hope i got all that right.
I may get lucky and it is just at the manifold. I must say though that after putting in that Rislone stuff, I am not loosing as much antifreeze. However, I have given thought to what someone said about it only being a temp fix
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  #29  
Old 10-13-2011
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If it fills a cylinder with coolant...when you attempt to start it, it will hydrolock and not start. At which point you pull the plugs and find the issue(if it truly is making it's way in the cylinder)
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  #30  
Old 10-13-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rascal View Post
oops. stupid android phones. I have not been able to leave the truck with him and had to pick it up early. I did however call him after reading these posts and he did say that while it was a good idea, the leak is to the inside and not outside. Because he is confident that the leak is internal, it could force antifreeze to the top of a piston and cause something to bend when running due to the pressure. Boy, hope i got all that right.
I may get lucky and it is just at the manifold. I must say though that after putting in that Rislone stuff, I am not loosing as much antifreeze. However, I have given thought to what someone said about it only being a temp fix
If he thinks it's internal, ask him why there isn't a prolonged display of steam coming out the tailpipe and see what he says. Said another way, what was his method of diagnosis that makes him so confident that it's internal. So far in posts, I haven't seen anything pointing either way.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rolsmojave3 View Post
If it fills a cylinder with coolant...when you attempt to start it, it will hydrolock and not start. At which point you pull the plugs and find the issue(if it truly is making it's way in the cylinder)
Not always the case, and this is being said by a guy that bent two rods and cracked two pistons on a motor within 5 seconds of startup. All it has to do it "catch" and it's tries to power through that slug of incompressible liquid.
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  #31  
Old 10-14-2011
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I may see hime in the next week or so. Waiting till I have my other truck freed up. It has my camper on it and if there's no ice on the lakes, i can still fish:) Well guess after that too but don't need the boat and camper.

thanks again for the input. i do trust this guy but he is also humble enough to be open to ideas and input. He is also aware that before tearing into it, $ are an issue for me. I will pull the plugs try and get as much more info as possible before leaving it with him and going as far as the manifold. I'm thinking that pulling the plugs will really tell some tales.

Again, thanks!!
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  #32  
Old 10-14-2011
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I'd be curious to know what the answer is. Final thoughs on this one:

a) Rent a radiator pressure tester and find the leak yourself. People here will explain how to use it if you're unsure. Auto part chain stores rent tools for pretty cheap; the pressure tester should be around $15. It's installed like a radiator cap, and pressure is applied via a pump that works like a frame mounted bike pump. You could also ask your mechanic buddy if he'd loan you his for an evening.

b) Retorque your lower intake manifold bolts. The price is free and it will take 15-30 minutes. You'll need a torque wrench, a couple of 6" extenders, a swivel for one or two of the rear bolts, and two sockets; I can't remember the size, 1/2" sounds familiar and IIRC a deep socket will also be needed for a few bolts (use a short and a long, six point is preferred). The torque sequence is readily available, if not here I should be able to find it on a CD or online. Again, if you need info on how to do this very easy task, people here will help.

Many a OHV 4.0 develops (or will eventually develop) a leaky lower intake gasket, leaking either vacuum or coolant. This was a very common problem and the vast majority of the time retorquing is all it took to fix it, for good. It also happened to me long ago, been there, done that, and I've done it for a handful of buddies while they stood there and watched. Just be advised that the longer it has leaked, that the odds of success via retorquing go down, but still, the worst that will happen is that you slowed the flow, which will also confirm what the problem is.
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  #33  
Old 10-25-2011
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have the truck booked in for Nov 3-4. Going to get him to torque the exhaust bolts and do my clutch. Will keep you posted. Thanks again
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  #34  
Old 11-16-2011
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Hello all. Well, I got my truck back from the mechanic. It cost me way more than anticipated and he had a heck of a time getting the line off and gettting the system bled because darn thing has a bunch of bends in it. He had to cut the line so that had to be replaced. Anyway, he put a new clutch in and did the whole kit and kaboodle. Everything below is brand new. Shifts a lot nicer and is still breaking in. Apparently that's normal. We didn't do anything with the head in terms of retorquing it because it was already costing more than anticipated. Also, it would have taken a bit to get at the bolts. There is a phelem (?) and a bunch of stuff on top that would have had to come off to access the bolts.
So, if we don't get a ton of snow, I will be driving it for a bit and will keep you all posted. Thanks for all the information and advice. Really helped a lot!
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