About 5 months ago I had and issue with the engine barely starting then led to no start. Hard shaking of engine during idle.

What I have done: spark plug change, spark plug coil pack change, fuel injectors change. All worked fine until today. No start and like it wants to shake dead and it did after running for a few minutes.

Any and all help will help as I’m probably going to remove all items I have changed and inspect them but are there any other ideas?

Fuel pump sealing surface o-ring, fuel pump, clogged (new) fuel injectors?

1998 Ranger XLT Splash

 

1998 Ranger, what engine?
2.5l
3.0l
4.0l

So after changing spark plugs it ran fine for 5 months
And the CEL(check engine light) was not on 5 months ago(misfires) and is not on now?

 

Engine is a 3.0L 6 cylinders

 

And the rest?

Ran fine, no codes for 5 months?

What were the codes if CEL was one?

Try 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine
If it fires/starts and runs until added fuel is gone then spark is good, but no fuel from injectors
If it doesn't fire/start, then spark is the issue
50/50 instant results on where to look next

 

There were no codes and even now the check engine light doesn’t come on. I’m having the same issue as last time since it’s struggling to start, to stay started and when it did start it shook the engine and lacking acceleration. It may be a bad fuel injectors, or coil pack even though all are new.

 

Could be clogged exhaust, Cat converters breaking apart
You can use a vacuum gauge to test for that

Or pull out the 2 upstream O2 sensor, ones near each exhaust manifold and go for a drive, it will be LOUD, but if it starts and runs better then exhaust is clogged

Low fuel pressure or injectors issues would set Lean codes
Spark plug/coil issues should set misfire codes

This may have been your issue before, which is why no codes before, and the blockage cleared a bit, which happens, but its blocked again

try the 50/50 test just to see what happens, but when there are no codes then its either a computer issue or air flow issue
Check air cleaner and the tube from air box to front grill, for "mouse house", but a longshot

 

When it first happened I disconnected the passenger side manifold and it ran better. After that hit the cat converter and it sounded like a shaker. So decided to remove the cat and once removed it was all messed up, so decided to just go straight pipe and it did much better. But I will try and test what I can and also if I don’t start a face fire, I will try the 50/50 test as well you described.

 

Removing Cats or muffler should never effect engine operations, these are neutral parts, just used to lower emissions or sound level, won't effect anything unless they block the flow of exhaust out of the engine

Engines are self powered air pumps
The more air you can pump thru the more power you get
This is why a 5 Liter engine has more power than a 3 liter engine, it can pump 2 liters more of air thru every 2 RPM
And why turbo or super chargers add more power, more air is being Forced thru the engine/pump

So if you limit the OUT air flow that limits the IN flow, so less power