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  #1  
Old 10-20-2005
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Oil Change Question. Please don't laugh.

Pre Stuff, Do not need to read if you are in a hurry.
I have about 25 minutes tomorrow in which I can change my oil in class (it's coming to the time when I need to). Only problem, I have never changed it on the ranger. We've had all these free oil change coupons from Ford so I never bothered. I went out and picked up the motorcraft 5W-30, don't preach about this stuff because my dad has used Ford recomended oil on all vehicles and wants me to do the same. Plus they won't get mad at me like they got at him when he put a fram oil filter on. I've changed the oil on my dad's F-150 with him three times already and helped him with vans when I was little. I was the open the bottles and pour upside down guy.


Question, Please Read this!
I need any tips and tricks to get this done quickly. Any tips on getting the oil filter out? It looks like it's going to be a bear lodged up under the engine. Or any tips on getting it in as well. And how much new oil should I spread on the gasket. My dad always just had me put enough so the gasket had a light cover. Any help?
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Old 10-20-2005
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you can get specatly wreches for the oil flter, but most of the time you can crank on it by hand. just dab your finger in the old oil and rub it over the gasket, thats all you need.

tip to doing it quickly: do it all the time to where you know exactly the whole porcess...
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2005
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They make a few different types of filter removal tools but I have better luck with my bare hands. You can check if it's too tight by trying to unscrew it beforehand. I know over the course of all my offroading I check and recheck the oil filter quite a few times to make sure it's got a good seal. I usually turn it nearly as tight as it will go and back it off maybe an 1/8th of a turn. Also, when filling the oil filter about 1/4-1/2 way up with oil, I always get it on the top of the filter and rub it around on the gasket to help it make a seal. Umm, other than that just position the oil catch pan accordingly.. the flow will make a huge mess if ya undercompensate. Good luck! And be glad rangers are easy to change the oil on, in my g/f's sunfire ya hafta fill the oil filter with oil and then install it sideways at some obscure spot that's impossible to see while you're working on it, so as far as oil changes go the rangers kick ***! (the 4.0's at least)
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Old 10-20-2005
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i use a big **** set of channel locks. but they do make tools that go on a 1/2 ratchet.

thin layer of oil will work on the gasket
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Old 10-20-2005
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4.0's are pointing straight down, the 3.0's are at an angle and are a little difficult to get to.


The first change on my mariner was a disaster, it was on so tight. Could not do it by hand. It slipped on my filter adapter (on a socket wrench with a 12" extension). I poked a long screwdriver through it and it wouldn't budge without tearing the filter. I finally put the filter adapter back on, drilled a hole into it and into the filter and stuck a steel rod through the hole to keep it from slipping and was able to finally spin it.

^^that's the stuff that happens when you are on a deadline. At the least, loosen the filter and then hand tighten it before you get to school. The rest of the change is a piece of cake.
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Old 10-20-2005
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drain the oil before removing the filter
a cap end wrench that fits the filter is the fastest way to remove it (if not by hand)
cut a 2 liter bottle top off (thanks mjktg99)
position the open bottle so the the used filter drops into it
wipe and clean the point where the filter seals to the block
dip finger in new oil and coat seal on new filter
spin on to very hand tight
put drain plug back in engine
fill to proper level - start motor - check level again after 3 minutes idle
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Old 10-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graniteguy
The first change on my mariner was a disaster, it was on so tight.
I have found this to be almost universally true on Fords for the first filter change. I am convinced that they install the filter at the engine plant using a completely dry rubber gasket and overtorque it. Then it spends time in shipping and on the dealer lot. Months later it is time to remove the factory filter for the first change and it can be quite difficult. If you are a beginner at changing oil, the first change from new would not be the one to learn on.
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Old 10-20-2005
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oh yea, check for any leaks (plug and filter)
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  #9  
Old 10-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBulletXLT
I usually turn it nearly as tight as it will go and back it off maybe an 1/8th of a turn.
I don't know how good that is at keeping a seal. I wouldn't crush that rubber gasket down and then back it off...
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2005
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I thought you weren't supposed to put any oil in the new filter before installing it? Doesn't the full 5 quarts you put in fill the oil filter after it has been running for a few minutes? And we have all the tools. I'm just worried about not tightening it enough when it goes back on. Hopefully all goes well though. And thanks for all the quick replys!
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Old 10-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilFord4x4
I'm just worried about not tightening it enough when it goes back on.
A good rule of thumb is to spin the filter on until the oiled gasket makes contact, then tighten it an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Unless the filter location is very difficult to reach, this can usually be done by hand tightening it. Resist the temptation to use a filter wrench to overtighten the filter past the 1/2 turn. This can cause oil leaks and make the filter difficult to remove.

If you're into absolute accuracy, Ford lists the oil filter torque spec as 10 lb-ft. There are cup style filter "sockets" available that can be driven by a square drive torque wrench. This is total overkill, though.
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Old 10-20-2005
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For how tight, you wanna go till the rubber gasket snugs up to the block then turn by hand another 3/4 to 1 turn and thats all the tighter it needs to be. Just double check the old filter to make sure the old gasket came off with it. The nice part of filling the filter about half way when installing it is that it avoids a dry start.

Oh yeah a tip for speed would be to open the fill hole so that it drains faster and doesn't glug as much when it comes out.
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2005
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you are filling the crankcase from the top of the heads and the oil drips down to the pan
you are not really getting a dry start (OK only damp on one side )
to be of any use the oil you put in the filter has to be pumped back up to the heads
putting oil in the filter just makes for a messy job
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
I have found this to be almost universally true on Fords for the first filter change. I am convinced that they install the filter at the engine plant using a completely dry rubber gasket and overtorque it. Then it spends time in shipping and on the dealer lot. Months later it is time to remove the factory filter for the first change and it can be quite difficult. If you are a beginner at changing oil, the first change from new would not be the one to learn on.
I miss Ford virgin oil changes. Dodges make them seem loose in comparison. We've broke the oil filters on these new Hemi Magnums without even getting the filter off.
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2005
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Always make sure that when you take the old filter off the rubber seal is still attatched to the filter and not to the block. It very rarely happens, but I have seen it.
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  #16  
Old 10-22-2005
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Got it done in 30 minutes, so in time. Only bad thing is that I burned the back of my hand on one of the catalytic converters. But hey, battle wounds are sweet. Thanks everyone!
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