would a front dana 30 or a rear dana 44 from a 74 cj-5 work.... what kind of suspension did those have? anything else i would need from the jeep besides the axle (i.e. transfercase, drive shaft)?

thanks for the help

 

well, avoid rear axles for the front, you dont want those headaches thats for sure, and you shoudl look into something a bit more recent if you wanna do jeep because the CJs had passengerside diffs where the ranger t-cases are all driverside drop... the suspention is going to have to be totally fabbed up custom to your likeing (leaf spring or coil spring or 4 link or whatever you chose to make) and if you wanted to use the CJ axle you may want to look into a motor swap to a motor that will use a tranny that can have a passnegerside drop t-case, or have atlas make you a passenger drop t-case for behind your tranny for around 4 grand... but you could get a 5:1 low range crawl ratio in it... there is a ton of fab that will be involved in this especially if it is for your 2000 because you will also need to figure out something for steering. the 98-up rangers went to a rack and pinion steering setup that cant be used with a solid axle so you would need to swap to an older style steering gearbox from something else. i dont know if the holes are in the newer frame for the 97 and older ranger gearbox to be bolted up...

 

always use front for front. but yes anything will fit even rockwells its all custom fab from here on out...

 

i believe theres a massive thread in the suspenion forum about a SAS...

 

Don't use a D30. Too weak, crappy to use. Jeep Wagoneer/cherokee chief and Ford 71-77 EB (early Bronco) are the best D44s to use. Any other axles are usually fullsize(which is also a possible swap). But I think the only jeep axle worth using is D44 Rubicon, and it hasn't been done cause of the expensive axle.

Aaron

 

Ya my thread has 40+ pages and I have pics of EVERYTHING, every single step, there is pictures of it. Go read.

The rubicon d44 is not a true d44. The diff is a weird d44, you can't even use regular d44 gears, and from the shafts out it's all d30 ****.

Get a waggy or EB d44 unless you want to go full width then get a hp44 and a 9".

 

Not anymore...there are 30 spline outer kits now available

 

wow in just the few posts here yall have helped me alot.... time to keep searching for an axle

 

Yes but, to buy a rubicon axle i see them go for about 23-2500 for ONE axle. Then buy a 30 spline outer kit would probably be another $1000 (dunno, thats just a guess). Then you still have the weird pneumatic lockers, weird diff that cannot use a regular d44 locker in. Just too much money for what It actually is.

 

Whoever is charging that is ripping people off, here you can get a new front for 1450, rear for 1600. Gotta add shafts, but that can be done for less than 1000.
http://www.jeepsareus.com/Merchant2/...Code=Wrangler1

you can use any D44 carrier, just have to shim it. Gears are thicker though, and I beleive the rear pinion bearing is different on the Rubi D44. It's 600 for the 30 spline kit, 900 for the Warn hub kit...would be a better idea anyway.

Buying Rubi axles to put on another vehicle would be a waste. Some guys have put them on Jeeps, but it's a huge PITA for parts searching. The lcokers use 5psi so unless you use the OEM pumps it would be a pain to get 5psi safetly to them. Unless you had someone that wanted to by them, but it woul dbe just as easy to order/build an axle at that point.

 

Thats what i was talking about putting the rubicon axles on another vehicle. are you getting the 30 spline kit.

 

No, for 300 more I could get the 5x5.5 Warn hub conversion and get 30 spline stubs with tha AND hubs.. Alloy USA makes the kit, and it's just 30 spline outers and a 30 spline unit bearing. Doesn't make much sense, but I guess the market is there to just "plug and play" and upgrade as opposed to the hub conversion.

 

for a lot cheaper than that if you want a D44 get a full size ford D44, then cut the passengerside tube down to use an EB axle shaft on the passengerside and a fullsize axleshaft on the driverside and you have a true D44 that is the correct width with easily found aftermarket shafts or stock replacement shafts, and you can get the fullsize D44s with disk brakes and manual locking hubs. you'll have to deal with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and the easiest thing to do would be to get some adapters for the rear axle to switch from 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 (unless you plan on swapping the rear too).

 

It's alot easier to run an EB or waggy d44. Personally it's too much trouble to cut down a d44. If I were to cut down any axle it would be a D60. But If I did the swap again I would go full width.