Temp Gauge Not Working
#1
Temp Gauge Not Working
(2.3L 1997)
Good afternoon/morning,
I don't have a reading of the coolant temperature on my gauge cluster, it's just stuck. I watched a few videos on YouTube, and most mention to replace the coolant temp sending unit (circled in yellow), however when they mention the elbow wire that connects to it, I cannot find it. The sensor above (circled in red-ish) has the elbow connector, but it doesn't fit on the temp sending unit.
I would greatly appreciate anyone's experience, or advice.
Thank you.
Good afternoon/morning,
I don't have a reading of the coolant temperature on my gauge cluster, it's just stuck. I watched a few videos on YouTube, and most mention to replace the coolant temp sending unit (circled in yellow), however when they mention the elbow wire that connects to it, I cannot find it. The sensor above (circled in red-ish) has the elbow connector, but it doesn't fit on the temp sending unit.
I would greatly appreciate anyone's experience, or advice.
Thank you.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Diagram here: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...124053_oil.gif
Higher one is oil sender, lower one is temp sender, these are both 12volt units, unlike "sensors" which are 5volt
To test the wire and temp gauge, remove the wire from sender and Ground it, i.e. use a jumper wire from battery negative to the wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go to HOT, if so wire and gauge are OK, replace sender
DO NOT use tape on sender threads, these need a good ground connection to metal engine block to work, so leave lower threads bare metal
Because of this location on the 2.3l Limas the gauge tends to read cooler than other Rangers, should be above 1/3 when heated up, other Ranger are just blow 1/2 but their senders are at top of engine at the front were coolant is hotter
1/2 on Ford temp gauge is 205degF or so
185-195deg is correct operating temp at TOP FRONT of engine
Higher one is oil sender, lower one is temp sender, these are both 12volt units, unlike "sensors" which are 5volt
To test the wire and temp gauge, remove the wire from sender and Ground it, i.e. use a jumper wire from battery negative to the wire
Turn on the key
Temp gauge should go to HOT, if so wire and gauge are OK, replace sender
DO NOT use tape on sender threads, these need a good ground connection to metal engine block to work, so leave lower threads bare metal
Because of this location on the 2.3l Limas the gauge tends to read cooler than other Rangers, should be above 1/3 when heated up, other Ranger are just blow 1/2 but their senders are at top of engine at the front were coolant is hotter
1/2 on Ford temp gauge is 205degF or so
185-195deg is correct operating temp at TOP FRONT of engine
#3
My 1997 Ranger's XLT 3.0 temperature gauge will not move off cold. It runs at normal operating temp. I have replaced the sensors. Run diagnostics to force the gauge to move to hot. I removed the instrument cluster and checked all diodes... I am at a loss. any suggestions would be appreciated.
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