Won’t go over 3100rpm
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Wahiwa, HI
Won’t go over 3100rpm
I bought a 2002 V6 Mazda B3000 7 months ago only to find out it had several issues. Although it idles fine and runs at all speeds, it will not exceed 3100rpm. I noticed the issue because it will overheat if I try to excelerate quickly, drive up hill, or drive quickly on a hot day. When in neutral, I pressed the gas pedal and the rpm steadily increase until 3100rpm and then the engine begins to have a seizure and will not go above that. Also, it is leaking 1/2 gallon of antifreeze/month from the freeze plug that backs up against the firewall. The engine mounts, thermostat, and headgasget are fine and I have drained and refilled the radiator.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
RF's Exiled Elite
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 553
Likes: 5
From: Kentucky
In park or neutral the engine will not exceed 3K because or the rev limiter. Does it stop at 3k while actually driving in gear? Also if your leaking that much coolant there's a good chance your getting air trapped in the system which is causing your over heating issue. I would also inspect the fan clutch.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Wahiwa, HI
It doesn't seem to go over 3k while driving either. Unless it is overly hot, the engine wont overheat unless the engine runs at 2800-3100rpm (ie going up hill). Is the air getting trapped due to old, worn hoses that allow air in, or due to the freeze plug leak?
Welcome to the forum
Install a new fuel filter, $10, maybe $15 in Hawaii
You are referring to the "freeze plug"(actually a core plug) in the back of one of the heads I assume
Since the rear of engine is covered by the bell housing
You can replace it with a rubber expansion plug
Use whatever you can to knock the rusted one out, it can go inside the head it won't hurt anything or block flow
But if you can get it out so much the better because you can use it to get the correct size expansion plug
No, the metal ones are not better, they are CHEAPER, which is why auto maker use them.
No, the holes these fill were not put there to stop a block or head from cracking if frozen, lol, even back in 1901, before anti-freeze.
They are there to get the SAND OUT of the interior sections after molten metal was poured into the sand casting mold to make the block or head
Install a new fuel filter, $10, maybe $15 in Hawaii
You are referring to the "freeze plug"(actually a core plug) in the back of one of the heads I assume
Since the rear of engine is covered by the bell housing
You can replace it with a rubber expansion plug
Use whatever you can to knock the rusted one out, it can go inside the head it won't hurt anything or block flow
But if you can get it out so much the better because you can use it to get the correct size expansion plug
No, the metal ones are not better, they are CHEAPER, which is why auto maker use them.
No, the holes these fill were not put there to stop a block or head from cracking if frozen, lol, even back in 1901, before anti-freeze.
They are there to get the SAND OUT of the interior sections after molten metal was poured into the sand casting mold to make the block or head
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
