Hey everyone,

My wife just picked up a 1987 Ford Ranger. The tail lights work fine when I turn on the headlights. However, brake and reverse light doesn't work. I haven't really looked into it yet but just wanted to post a quick ask on here. Could it be a fuse even though the lights work when I turn on the headlights? Has anyone ran into this issue?

 

Welcome to the forum

The 4-way(hazard) flashers and Brake lights share a fuse, 15amp, has power all the time, so if 4-ways work then fuse is OK, could be brake light switch or bad wires at the rear
In 1987 there is a dual filament rear bulb, one filament is for Park lights, the other filament does BOTH brake and turn
So if turn signals(4-ways) are working in the rear then "brake" bulb is good as well, same filament/bulb, and WIRES are good to the rear

Park lights and turn/brake lights share a Ground at the rear, so if Park lights work then Ground for dual bulb is OK

So if no brake lights that leaves brake switch or Multi-function switch(turn signal stalk), assuming fuse is OK

Fuse(12volt)----------------brake pedal switch------------multi-function switch----------------------------------------------------rear lights

Brake light switch passes 12volts to the multi-function switch, when close(pedal down), if the turn signal is in Neutral position, then that 12volts goes thru the multi-function switch, and out on two wires, one wire for left rear and one wire for right rear, both brake lights are on, well should get 12volts, lol, bulb needs to be good

When turn signal is activated then the brake light wire is disconnected inside the multi-function switch for that side, and the wire to the rear on that side is connected to the Flasher unit, which powers the one light on and off
The other sides brake light is still connected to the brake switch

To have both brakes lights fail to pass thru multi-function switch is possible, just not as likely as bad brake pedal switch or fuse



Turn and backup lights also share a fuse, 15amp, key on power only, so if turns are working then could be Reverse light switch on transmission or bad wires at the rear

On a manual trans there is a 2 wire switch on driver side of trans, usually high up by the shifter, pull off the connector and jumper the 2 wires together
Turn on the key and look to see if reverse lights are on, if so replace the switch
If lights are not on then check both wires to see if one has 12volts, key on
If so fuse is good, if not wire from fuse or fuse is bad

On an automatic the switch is multi-wire, on drivers side just above shifter rod, usually 4 or 5 wires, call NSS switch
Purple/orange stripe wire is 12volts in from fuse
Black/pink stripe wire is OUT to rear lights
These wire colors are fairly common on both manual and automatics

If there is 12volts at the switch but no reverse lights when jumpered then wire to back is bad or ground for bulbs are or BOTH bulbs are bad

DIY trailer light wiring can cause issue with all the tail lights, lol, so could be wire was damaged
There is just one wire to the rear for backup lights and it splits to both sides

 

Sorry for the late reply. Here's the current status.

Also found our that the license plate lights weren't working. Looked underneath the two wires going to each license plate bulbs were but. Reattached them and those work now when parking lights are on.

For brake lights problem. Didn't see any cut wire in the back. Checked the fuses and they were good. Checked the brake switch. There was a zip tie wrapped around it. Must have been from the previous owner. Doesn't seem to be doing anything since the brake switch was held on by a pin. Took the switch out. Green wires coming from fuse box has constant power. Tried as much as possible to depress the brake switch manually and check continuity but nothing. I think that's the problem. Heading to O'Reillys to get a replacement. Cross fingers that's the problem. Stand by for updates.

 

Update:

I bought a replacement brake switch. That didn't fix it. However, when I lightly moved the switch upwards the light would work. Ended up taking it to a shop. They bought two replacement switches and still didn't work. They ended up soldering a piece of metal on the switch that contacts the brake rod. What they think the issue is that the brake rod might have been replaced when the master cylinder was replaced from the previous owner. It's a hacky way but it works.