The meter is hooked up under the negative cable. When I remove the negative cable in the morning if I still have the draw then disconnect the GEM?

 

I’m not sure what you mean by under the cable and changing things in the am. Battery neg disconnected. One meter lead to battery the other to disconnected cable. Make sure glove box test works. Walk away for an hour. Change nothing and check meter. If battery goes dead overnight this will be for naught if you wait that long.

 

I have the meter attached to the negative post with a wire UNDERNEATH the cable clamp. The wire circles back to the clamp. I can lift the clamp without breaking contact. battery is fully charged and will not be drained in the AM. Thanks so much for helping and sticking with it. Will let you know what the draw looks like, have some paid work to do this AM.

 

Pull fuse 27 in engine fuse box, that powers the park light relay and Battery Saver relay and its components, i.e. interior lights, in 1996 Ranger

Then you won't have to wait for GEM timer

 

OK, GEM Timer worked. Dropped to .07. I removed #25 and put it back in and reactivated the timer so I am waiting another hour for it to go to .07 again then I will finish checking fuses from #25 on. Should I also check the under hood box? If I do should I leave the IP Fuse alone so I don't reset the timer (assuming no other fuse in the I/P box indicates a draw)? Or does removing the I/P fuse eliminate the GEM Circuit completely? If I remove the I/P fuse and I get a drop is it definitely something in the I/P box?

 

4th one down on the left? 20 Amps? Doesn't the GEM itself draw power without the relay? With engine 27 removed and GEM Timer deactivated, if #25 ends up being the draw is it the cluster?

 

Don't have a layout but yes 20amp

Owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

It will have layout, 2.3l might be different, but will show that in manual, B2300 should be the same as Ranger 2.3l

 

4th one down on the left looks right, 20 Amps. Doesn't the GEM itself draw power without the relay? With engine 27 removed and GEM Timer deactivated, if #25 ends up being the draw is it the cluster?

 

OK, I have it down to .07 Amps after timer shut off. The .04-.05 amp draw is coming from the airbag 10 Amp fuse. This was a single airbag vehicle and I removed the jumper plug behind the passenger panel and replaced the passenger panel with an airbag, plugging it into the existing wire that held the jumper plug. Is .07 amps OK?

 

yes, if you have keyless entry .07 is OK, RAP module is fuse 12 in engine bay, 20amp, its also fuel pump fuse, usually .03 to .04

Never heard of the airbag monitor drawing power after key off, it does have 12v power all the time(fuse 19), but airbags should be fully charged after engine is shut off
0.04 is not much but not 0 either


Car batterys are rated by CCR(cold cranking amps) but you need amp hours to see how long a battery will last with a drain
So do CCR X 0.7 = amp hour
So 600CCR battery would have 420a-h

If drain was 0.07amps an hour then 420 / .07 = 6,000 hours, 24hours in a day, 6,000/24 = 250days until battery was DEAD, but you wouldn't be able to start engine after 150days or so, you need 60-75amps left in battery to get starter motor to turn engine over

 

That is great info. I do not have keyless entry. I will get a battery check as well, but that air bag 10 amp Fuse is definitely the highest draw. Gonna put it all back together and get a battery test this week. I will let you know if anything else develops. Thanks for the education and assistance. I learned a few new things and will incorporate them.

 

And the battery was bad, replaced under warranty. Lets see how she does.....Thanks again for the help!!!

 

Good work

Thanks for the update

 

You are the hero of the day and win the internet!!!

 

I need my wife to read that.....................and thanks