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When I got it everything was working fine with the windows.
Then the driver side window would stop working sometimes. After a while it went out.
Just recent got frustrated with it not working but passenger side does.
I opened the panel up today to get to the switches. At first I speculated that just the contacts were corroded. Cleaned them for the driver side switch and nada. Then I switched the driver side and passenger side switches and still nada. So its not the actual switch contacts.
Some things that I have noticed before with this window is that sometimes it still works. This is usually if the truck has been sitting outside in the sun all day long. It will sit in my parking spot at work with sun hitting the door all day. On the drive home, even though I know it works I'll sometimes try it. And sometimes it will roll down, I immediately roll it back up when I do because it doesn't ever work for long and I dont want it to get stuck. Currently if I have the engine running and I put down the passenger side I can see the battery meter fluctuate on the dash, nothing happens when I do that for the driver side window though. That's why I initially thought it was just the switch.
The heat thing is strange to me too. Anyone have any ideas???
The 2 light blue/black stripe wires are the 12volts with key on, one for drivers door motor and one for passenger door motor, and there will be a 3rd light blue/black wire on the passenger door switch
The Solid black wires are the grounds and they are important, should be 4 of them on the master
The way power windows work is the same through out the years
Each motor has two wires and they are BOTH grounds when switch is not pressed, you should test that, all 4 black wires and both motor wires are good grounds, motor wires are grounded thru the switch from 2 of thosw black wires
When you press UP, it disconnects the ground on that motor wire and connects the 12volts, so motor turns counter clockwise and window goes up, when you let go of the switch both are Grounds again
When you press DOWN the Other wire is disconnected from ground and gets 12v so motor turns clockwise and window goes down
So both motor wires are grounded all the time and the 12volt is applied to one of the wires to roll window up and the other wire to roll window down
2 of the wires from the Master run over to the passenger side switch, they are the 2 Grounds for that switch and that motor
Same setup, both motor wires in passenger door are grounds but from drivers door ground wires, driver door switch sends 12v on one of the wires to roll window down, 12v on the other to roll it up
Passenger door switch also has its own 12v wire, the 3rd light blue/black, so passenger side switch can apply the 12v to one of the motor wires to roll window up or down
So test the 4 ground wires, 2 are for driver's motor and 2 are for passenger motor
Wiggle wires around while testing, open and close door, to see if ground or 12v is disconnecting
Switch contacts can get worn, unplug motor and test voltage on those wires while using the switch, driver door switch gets used the most so...............
and drivers door wires in the jamb get moved back and forth the most so....................
4 grounds
2 12v wires
2 to motor
2 to passenger side
so 10 wires, 5 to test since passenger side works
But my bet is the switch is worn out or the motor is
But if motor wears out , its usually brushes, so if you hit the door or slam it it will often start working again, if that happens change motor first