98 ranger tried everything still no power windows
98 ranger tried everything still no power windows
98 Ford ranger 4x4 everything works except the power windows. I've checked every fuse with a multi meter they have power. I took apart the door panel to check blue/black wire for power... No power. Took apart the ebrake assembly to get to the connector. No power to connector. The blue/black wire then goes into the dash. I took a wire from the battery to the blue/black wire on the driver side switch. By doing so the passenger window works but the drivers does not. When I hit the button for the driver side there is a relay under the dash to the right of the steering column that I can hear clicking when I push the window button down. If I remove the jumper wire from battery I lose everything. I am stumped on this one any ideas would be great
Welcome to the forum
There is the accessory delay relay that powers both windows
Location here: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/s4...y_location.jpg
But GEM module controls that relay, opens and closes it.
So could be GEM issue
The diagram below shows the "one touch relay", in relay box 1 which is up between steering column and center above gas pedal, usually
A few relays are in that box
There is the accessory delay relay that powers both windows
Location here: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/s4...y_location.jpg
But GEM module controls that relay, opens and closes it.
So could be GEM issue
The diagram below shows the "one touch relay", in relay box 1 which is up between steering column and center above gas pedal, usually
A few relays are in that box
Thank k you for the diagrams very helpful finding these relays. I'm looking at the accessorie delay relay and according to the diagram the red/Lt blue at this relay should have a constant 12v? I do not have 12 v on this wire I do have power on my green orange wire. I double checked fuse #4 under hood and it has 12v. Thinking out loud could the red/ blue wire be broken somewhere causing the windows not to work? Or does this go threw another component under the dash?
Red/blue stripe should go from #4 fuse in engine fuse box to the Acc Delay relay, and have 12volts at the relay end 24/7(all the time)
I don't see a Splice(s) or Connector(c) on that wire, but from its Fuse description it should also feed power Door Locks, and power seats, it doesn't feed door locks another fuse does
If you have an OHM meter and long wire you could test OHMs from #4 Fuse terminal, to ACC delay relay Red/blue wire
0 OHMs means wire is good
I don't see a Splice(s) or Connector(c) on that wire, but from its Fuse description it should also feed power Door Locks, and power seats, it doesn't feed door locks another fuse does
If you have an OHM meter and long wire you could test OHMs from #4 Fuse terminal, to ACC delay relay Red/blue wire
0 OHMs means wire is good
Last edited by RonD; Feb 8, 2017 at 06:15 PM.
I ended up running a new wire from the #4 fuse to the red/blue wire after going threw the diagram one last time and capping off the other end. Not the most professional fix but it's 5° here in wi. The drivers window motor was unplugged in the door as well I'm sure that helped. Both windows are working now as they should even the auto down. Thank-you very much for the diagrams, they saved me alot of frustration
Hello. I am having a similar problem with my windows. 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L V6
Tuesday I tried the switch and nothing. Neither the drivers side or the passenger side worked. I searched for a reason, but I am not that electrical savvy when it comes to vehicle electrical. Checked all fuses, and the 20 amp block fuse in the power box of the engine compartment. All were fine.
I pulled the drivers side switch and found that the switch was replaced before and all the PO did was twist all the wires from the switch to the harness one by one together and put electrical tape on it. Thought that was the issue but then I decided to run a wire from the Blue/black at the switch to the positive side of the battery.
Both windows worked at that point.
I am not sure where to go from there. I thought maybe a break in the wire somewhere at the harness at the drivers door, but after taking the skin off and checking all the way into the boot I didn't see anything broken.
Could you provide me some insight as to what to check next?
Tuesday I tried the switch and nothing. Neither the drivers side or the passenger side worked. I searched for a reason, but I am not that electrical savvy when it comes to vehicle electrical. Checked all fuses, and the 20 amp block fuse in the power box of the engine compartment. All were fine.
I pulled the drivers side switch and found that the switch was replaced before and all the PO did was twist all the wires from the switch to the harness one by one together and put electrical tape on it. Thought that was the issue but then I decided to run a wire from the Blue/black at the switch to the positive side of the battery.
Both windows worked at that point.
I am not sure where to go from there. I thought maybe a break in the wire somewhere at the harness at the drivers door, but after taking the skin off and checking all the way into the boot I didn't see anything broken.
Could you provide me some insight as to what to check next?
Hello. I am having a similar problem with my windows. 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L V6
Tuesday I tried the switch and nothing. Neither the drivers side or the passenger side worked. I searched for a reason, but I am not that electrical savvy when it comes to vehicle electrical. Checked all fuses, and the 20 amp block fuse in the power box of the engine compartment. All were fine.
I pulled the drivers side switch and found that the switch was replaced before and all the PO did was twist all the wires from the switch to the harness one by one together and put electrical tape on it. Thought that was the issue but then I decided to run a wire from the Blue/black at the switch to the positive side of the battery.
Both windows worked at that point.
I am not sure where to go from there. I thought maybe a break in the wire somewhere at the harness at the drivers door, but after taking the skin off and checking all the way into the boot I didn't see anything broken.
Could you provide me some insight as to what to check next?
Tuesday I tried the switch and nothing. Neither the drivers side or the passenger side worked. I searched for a reason, but I am not that electrical savvy when it comes to vehicle electrical. Checked all fuses, and the 20 amp block fuse in the power box of the engine compartment. All were fine.
I pulled the drivers side switch and found that the switch was replaced before and all the PO did was twist all the wires from the switch to the harness one by one together and put electrical tape on it. Thought that was the issue but then I decided to run a wire from the Blue/black at the switch to the positive side of the battery.
Both windows worked at that point.
I am not sure where to go from there. I thought maybe a break in the wire somewhere at the harness at the drivers door, but after taking the skin off and checking all the way into the boot I didn't see anything broken.
Could you provide me some insight as to what to check next?
Did you download the 1998 Power window diagram above?
Blue/black wire gets power from that 20amp fuse but ONLY when Relay is closed.
So you need to locate that relay and see if it has power and see if it is closing when key is turned on.
If switch was already replaced then I would suspect a bad wire or relay that was going bad and now has failed completely.
There is only two wires and one relay
20amp fuse-----(wire 1)---------relay-------(wire 2)-----------Drivers door switch
Thanks Ron. So I found the relays under the dash. There are 8 same size ones. no distinguishing marks that you can tell them apart. I did find the accessory delay relay on the passenger side kick panel.
I also purchased what Napa said was the only relay that was for power windows. that's the one that go into the box under the dash. I tried the new relay, one at a time, and did not here a clicking sound nor did the windows work.
BTW, everything works in the truck except the windows.
Should I try the accessory delay relay next?
I also purchased what Napa said was the only relay that was for power windows. that's the one that go into the box under the dash. I tried the new relay, one at a time, and did not here a clicking sound nor did the windows work.
BTW, everything works in the truck except the windows.
Should I try the accessory delay relay next?
For the past two days, the windows worked sporadically. Sometimes they would work normally and sometimes only part way down and part way up. I think this might be a broken or loose wire somewhere. I did jump the switch to the battery, and the windows worked great. I guess it could be the accessory delay relay, but the only thing not working are the windows. I did find that when driving the windows would work and then not work again. that actually makes me think there is a broken wire somewhere. As I understand it, the blue/black stripe is power, so I guess I need to trace where it goes after coming through the door boot.
Any ideas where that wire travels to? Am I even on the right track?
Any ideas where that wire travels to? Am I even on the right track?
It turned out the be a relay on the passenger side right kick panel. Square one. Napa had a tough time finding the part, but plug and play. Now both windows work once again.
It could be secured up behind and under the glove box, but the PO may have moved it when he installed the stereo and ran speakers through.
It could be secured up behind and under the glove box, but the PO may have moved it when he installed the stereo and ran speakers through.
It turned out the be a relay on the passenger side right kick panel. Square one. Napa had a tough time finding the part, but plug and play. Now both windows work once again.
It could be secured up behind and under the glove box, but the PO may have moved it when he installed the stereo and ran speakers through.
It could be secured up behind and under the glove box, but the PO may have moved it when he installed the stereo and ran speakers through.
No Drivers side window power, Passenger switch works
I can't track down the NO Power at the Lt Blue/Blk wire at the drivers side switch. No power at the drivers window switch on that wire (lt blue/blk).
Passenger side window switch works fine. Drivers window works fine if I run a wire to bring power to the drivers switch at the lt blue/blk terminal.
Replaced the one touch relay and no luck. Everthing else works.
I'm stumped. Any ideas?
Passenger side window switch works fine. Drivers window works fine if I run a wire to bring power to the drivers switch at the lt blue/blk terminal.
Replaced the one touch relay and no luck. Everthing else works.
I'm stumped. Any ideas?
I can't track down the NO Power at the Lt Blue/Blk wire at the drivers side switch. No power at the drivers window switch on that wire (lt blue/blk).
Passenger side window switch works fine. Drivers window works fine if I run a wire to bring power to the drivers switch at the lt blue/blk terminal.
Replaced the one touch relay and no luck. Everthing else works.
I'm stumped. Any ideas?
Passenger side window switch works fine. Drivers window works fine if I run a wire to bring power to the drivers switch at the lt blue/blk terminal.
Replaced the one touch relay and no luck. Everthing else works.
I'm stumped. Any ideas?
You should start your own thread and include the YEAR of your Ranger
Most year Ranger's power windows used the same wire color
Light blue/black wire is the 12v wire from the Window relay and its working because passenger window has 12v
The Light blue/black wire just spits into two Light blue/black wire wires after the relay, one for each door switch
So I wouldn't spend alot of time on tracing wires
Pull off passenger side kick panel and find the Light blue/black wire where it comes out of the door
Splice a new wire to it and run that wire to the drivers door switch Light blue/black wire, cut and splice
You are done
You have to pull off the driver side kick panel to run the new wire thru the door jam, so find that Light blue/black wire at that location and test if it has 12v, key on
If so then Light blue/black wire is broken inside the door/door jam, common stop to break
So you just need to run a new wire from there to the switch
Wires in the door jamb are bent back and forth each time a door is opened or closed, driver door is used the most so if a door wire stops work that's usually where it broke
Hi Ron,
1998 same as in the thread (forgot to mention that).
THANKS! I had everything pulled apart and as you said- the wire is broken in the door jam. I’ll run a new one tomorrow. Agh, a lot of time spent to get to that. But, that’s how it goes.
All working now. I replaced about a foot of the wire that broke (I use solder joints and heat shrink- but not in flex areas).
I also bypassed the One Touch down to eliminate a potential failure point (and I never liked it). Cut the tan/blue (there are two) and red going to the motor and connected. (Google searches for the info).
All working now and no One Touch, which i prefer.
I also bypassed the One Touch down to eliminate a potential failure point (and I never liked it). Cut the tan/blue (there are two) and red going to the motor and connected. (Google searches for the info).
All working now and no One Touch, which i prefer.
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