AC compressor not turning on
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You should include the year of the Ranger and engine model with questions, as your Profile is not included in posts
2003 4.0l Ranger
AC has 2 pressure switches, a relay in the engine computer and a AC Clutch relay in the engine fuse box
Also has the AC Clutch on the front of Compressor
So I assume the AC Clutch is not activating, that's what defines AC ON or OFF
Use a test light or volt meter to see if the 2 wire connector on the clutch is getting 12volts when AC on is selected in the cab
If so then Clutch is bad if its not activating
If not then AC Clutch relay is not activating, so you will want to test the two pressure switches first
Pressure switches should be CLOSED always, so unplug the pressure switch and use an OHM meter between the to pins, should be 0 ohms/connected
If one is OPEN/no connection then switch could be bad or you have pressure issues
Switches can be changed without draining the system, they are "hot swappable"
If both switches test as OK, pull out the AC Clutch relay in engine fuse box, check for corrosion on slots and pins, shake the relay should hear any rattling
Relays are not expensive so you can just swap it out but they rarely fail
Put relay back in
Have someone start the engine and turn the AC on and off while you have your finger on the AC Clutch relay, you should feel it "click" each time
If so then computer relay and switches are OK
If not then switches or computer is the issue
You should include the year of the Ranger and engine model with questions, as your Profile is not included in posts
2003 4.0l Ranger
AC has 2 pressure switches, a relay in the engine computer and a AC Clutch relay in the engine fuse box
Also has the AC Clutch on the front of Compressor
So I assume the AC Clutch is not activating, that's what defines AC ON or OFF
Use a test light or volt meter to see if the 2 wire connector on the clutch is getting 12volts when AC on is selected in the cab
If so then Clutch is bad if its not activating
If not then AC Clutch relay is not activating, so you will want to test the two pressure switches first
Pressure switches should be CLOSED always, so unplug the pressure switch and use an OHM meter between the to pins, should be 0 ohms/connected
If one is OPEN/no connection then switch could be bad or you have pressure issues
Switches can be changed without draining the system, they are "hot swappable"
If both switches test as OK, pull out the AC Clutch relay in engine fuse box, check for corrosion on slots and pins, shake the relay should hear any rattling
Relays are not expensive so you can just swap it out but they rarely fail
Put relay back in
Have someone start the engine and turn the AC on and off while you have your finger on the AC Clutch relay, you should feel it "click" each time
If so then computer relay and switches are OK
If not then switches or computer is the issue
You realize that "freon" evaporates at "room temp" and no internal pressure , so if system had a leak then all the "freon" you put in would be wasted money as it would just evaporate
You should always test if system has pressure before adding "freon"
Yes, system should be working but cutting off and on/cycling quickly if its low on "freon", i.e. low pressure switch is opening and closing because "freon" is low
Also the AC can get really really cold when "freon" is low, freezes pipes in engine bay
You will need to whip out the volt meter or take it to an AC shop
You should always test if system has pressure before adding "freon"
Yes, system should be working but cutting off and on/cycling quickly if its low on "freon", i.e. low pressure switch is opening and closing because "freon" is low
Also the AC can get really really cold when "freon" is low, freezes pipes in engine bay
You will need to whip out the volt meter or take it to an AC shop
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