AC not working
#1
AC not working
I checked the other thread and I'm pretty sure I still have the clutch for my ac compressor, but it's not turning on. I get air, just not cold air. And when the ac got cold I had the noticeable difference in power, so I'm pretty sure the compressor isn't turning on. What's the standard checklist of things to be wrong in this situation?
#7
#8
With the a/c on check the plug and see if you have power to the clutch. If so you have a bad clutch. If not jump out the pressure switches. The one by the battery is the high pressure switch and the one by the evaporator is the low pressure switch. If its not either of those it could be a blown fuse or a bad heater control in the dash.
#9
With the a/c on check the plug and see if you have power to the clutch. If so you have a bad clutch. If not jump out the pressure switches. The one by the battery is the high pressure switch and the one by the evaporator is the low pressure switch. If its not either of those it could be a blown fuse or a bad heater control in the dash.
#10
Well I did get the leaf out of the fan, which is very good news considering I was about to go crazy from that sound.
On the AC side I checked the power going to the compressor and it read 0volts. But I'm not sure if I was reading from the correct plug, below is a picture of the plug I tried.
On the AC side I checked the power going to the compressor and it read 0volts. But I'm not sure if I was reading from the correct plug, below is a picture of the plug I tried.
#13
Low Pressure switch- won't run if pressure is too low-Unlikely because you said it has freon
High Pressure switch- wont run if pressure is too high-Unlikely, usually shuts off the compressor when running pressure is too high
Bad heater control- could be a bad switch-probably the issue
Compressor relay-could be bad-could be the issue
WOT cutout- could be a bad throttle position sensor-unusual...
Thats all I can think of
High Pressure switch- wont run if pressure is too high-Unlikely, usually shuts off the compressor when running pressure is too high
Bad heater control- could be a bad switch-probably the issue
Compressor relay-could be bad-could be the issue
WOT cutout- could be a bad throttle position sensor-unusual...
Thats all I can think of
#15
I have an older ranger a '93 and maybe u guys can help me out with a problem. When i turn on my AC the truck shakes like it's about to turn off. At first it had a slight shake when i turned on the defrost tried looking for a vacuum leak but found nothing. Any ideas? Does any one have a diagram of the vacuum lines?
#16
#17
Had the same problem with my 95 Ranger, compressor would not come on. Strapped the low pressure switch leads together, no help, all connections looked good. Ran 12v from batt to compressor. Bingo...Had a check engine light code P-0118, Engine coolant temp sensor. Replaced sensor, $14, cured CEL , also AC works now, charged with 134 freon, blows cold...
#18
OLD thread but it popped up in my search. My AC seemed to have stopped working about two weeks ago. When I check the voltage on the plug for the AC compressor clutch (Pictured above) I am getting 0.038 volts. Should this not be 12v at the harness connector? If so then I think that's my problem on the wiring on the truck. Just wanted to make sure before I start replacing parts...
Thanks,
-Nigel
Thanks,
-Nigel
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Ibmal (05-16-2020)
#19
Bringing this back up as I have the same problem on my ‘03 B2300…air blows but it’s not cold, clutch isn’t engaging. So far this is my troubleshooting:
verified system is charged
verified 12 volts at both pressure switches, jumped them with no luck
verified no 12 volts at clutch connector, jumped 12 volts to clutch with no luck
verified fuses and relay are good by swapping them around, still no luck
now I’m stuck. I’m confused why even jumping 12 volts from the battery doesn’t engage the clutch. I’m wondering if I have a couple of problems maybe?
verified system is charged
verified 12 volts at both pressure switches, jumped them with no luck
verified no 12 volts at clutch connector, jumped 12 volts to clutch with no luck
verified fuses and relay are good by swapping them around, still no luck
now I’m stuck. I’m confused why even jumping 12 volts from the battery doesn’t engage the clutch. I’m wondering if I have a couple of problems maybe?
#20
Bringing this back up as I have the same problem on my ‘03 B2300…air blows but it’s not cold, clutch isn’t engaging. So far this is my troubleshooting:
verified system is charged
verified 12 volts at both pressure switches, jumped them with no luck
verified no 12 volts at clutch connector, jumped 12 volts to clutch with no luck
verified fuses and relay are good by swapping them around, still no luck
now I’m stuck. I’m confused why even jumping 12 volts from the battery doesn’t engage the clutch. I’m wondering if I have a couple of problems maybe?
verified system is charged
verified 12 volts at both pressure switches, jumped them with no luck
verified no 12 volts at clutch connector, jumped 12 volts to clutch with no luck
verified fuses and relay are good by swapping them around, still no luck
now I’m stuck. I’m confused why even jumping 12 volts from the battery doesn’t engage the clutch. I’m wondering if I have a couple of problems maybe?
#21
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
+1 ^^^
AC clutch is a simple electro-magnet, 12v and ground causes the coil to become a magnet and pull in the clutch to start compressor turning
Clutch/coil is a replaceable part
It does need to be shimmed correctly to work correctly, instructions for that should come with new clutch, or can be found on-line
You can test Coil with OHM meter, should read 2 to 5 ohms, no reading means wire inside is broken, 0 ohms means it shorted inside, but that would usually blow the fuse
AC clutch is a simple electro-magnet, 12v and ground causes the coil to become a magnet and pull in the clutch to start compressor turning
Clutch/coil is a replaceable part
It does need to be shimmed correctly to work correctly, instructions for that should come with new clutch, or can be found on-line
You can test Coil with OHM meter, should read 2 to 5 ohms, no reading means wire inside is broken, 0 ohms means it shorted inside, but that would usually blow the fuse
#22
AC problem
I had a problem with my compressor not engaging with the truck connector but it would engage if I put 12V to it. Problem was I had 0 volts to my compressor connector due to a faulty engine coolant temp sensor. Replaced the sensor and compressor was engaging and AC was blowing snowballs again 👍🏽
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RonD (09-03-2021)
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