Battery issues
#1
Battery issues
I have a 2011 Ford Ranger 4x4 that keeps having issues staying charged. For the last 2 years it just randomly doesn't want to start. I have been through several brand of batteries and had a new alternator put on recently. It was only driven about 60 miles a week for the last few years and now with Covid it is only driven to keep it running because I do not really leave the house much. Yesterday it started fine, this morning just clicks. My husband drove it about 40 miles to work and back last week. I'm at a loss, if I used it more I would trade it in for something else because I am over worrying if it is going to start. I try to drive it 5 or so miles a couple times a week but when ever I actually need it, nope.
It was suggested to keep it unhooked from the battery in case something like the clock is draining it and it is hit or miss on whether it starts after being hooked up. Any suggestion on a battery that will stay charged longer or thoughts on why it is doing this? Help!! Thank you ☺
It was suggested to keep it unhooked from the battery in case something like the clock is draining it and it is hit or miss on whether it starts after being hooked up. Any suggestion on a battery that will stay charged longer or thoughts on why it is doing this? Help!! Thank you ☺
#2
Start the vehicle and "test" the charging system as an auto parts store would. Have your terminals been clean all this time?
Are the terminal clamps able to bite and hold onto the posts definitively? They bend (and break!) and lose solid contact.
If your battery has taken any kind of beating, take it out of the vehicle and give it a full charge. Measure the voltage when done then the next morning.
Keep the meter handy as you may be measuring voltage frequently.
How old is this battery? If it's original, it's ancient!
Check where the red cable connects to the starter. I fitted a battery once and got nothing. I had failed to tighten the nut on the stud of the starter sufficiently.
Corrosion in the cables' clamps (swags) will interfere with charging. Inspection might not be easy as the swag is around the cable's end and covers it.
If you've slack enough you can cut off a suspect swagged clamp and fit a new clamp.
Make sure the engine to frame ground is intact.
You got some basic charging system inspections to perform.
My incorrect battery (a 6 1/2 year old G58 which was in the truck when I bought it) still started my Ranger but a voltage check revealed it was a "failed battery" by quite a margin.
I bought a correctly sized G59 (a bit larger than the G58 in both dimension and CCA) and I enjoy a NECESSARY measure of confidence now that cold weather is here.
Go to someone who knows if necessary.
Are the terminal clamps able to bite and hold onto the posts definitively? They bend (and break!) and lose solid contact.
If your battery has taken any kind of beating, take it out of the vehicle and give it a full charge. Measure the voltage when done then the next morning.
Keep the meter handy as you may be measuring voltage frequently.
How old is this battery? If it's original, it's ancient!
Check where the red cable connects to the starter. I fitted a battery once and got nothing. I had failed to tighten the nut on the stud of the starter sufficiently.
Corrosion in the cables' clamps (swags) will interfere with charging. Inspection might not be easy as the swag is around the cable's end and covers it.
If you've slack enough you can cut off a suspect swagged clamp and fit a new clamp.
Make sure the engine to frame ground is intact.
You got some basic charging system inspections to perform.
My incorrect battery (a 6 1/2 year old G58 which was in the truck when I bought it) still started my Ranger but a voltage check revealed it was a "failed battery" by quite a margin.
I bought a correctly sized G59 (a bit larger than the G58 in both dimension and CCA) and I enjoy a NECESSARY measure of confidence now that cold weather is here.
Go to someone who knows if necessary.
Last edited by Georgeandkira; 12-08-2020 at 11:45 AM.
#3
Welcome to the forum
Clock, radio presets, engine computer and Keyless entry together draw 0.07 amps an hour
You most likely have an electrical system that is staying on after key is off and doors are closed
2011 Ranger with keyless entry should have a 0.07 amp drain after 30 minutes of being parked, so battery should be able to start engine after sitting for 125 days or so
If it will be sitting longer than 3 months I would unhook one battery cable
Finding a drain is tough, you need to disconnect battery cable and put an amp meter in between cable and battery, then wait 30min for the "Battery Saver circuit" to click off
Then pull fuses out in the engine fuse box to see when amp drain drops, that will localize the drain, then you have to do that in the cab fuse box on the circuits that were disable by the engine fuse box fuse
Car/truck battery's are rated with CCR(cold cranking amps), to determine how long it will last with a slow drain you need to know the Amp Hours
CCR X 0.7 = Amp hours
So a battery rated with 600CCR would have amp/hour as 600 x 0.7 = 420a/h
So if there was a 1 amp drain the battery would be TOTALLY DEAD after 420 hours(17 days)
If a 10 amp drain it would be TOTALLY DEAD in 42hours(2 days)
If 0.1amp drain the TOTALLY DEAD in 4,200 hours(175 days)
TOTALLY DEAD is of course way past "it won't start" lol, generally at 50% a battery "may" start an engine, if its cold out then probably not as batteries lose about 20% at temps close to freezing, under 40degF
CCR is suppose to be rated at 32degF but grain of salt on that
420a/h at 50% is 210a/h then 0.07 amp draw per hour = 3,000hours or 125 days
Clock, radio presets, engine computer and Keyless entry together draw 0.07 amps an hour
You most likely have an electrical system that is staying on after key is off and doors are closed
2011 Ranger with keyless entry should have a 0.07 amp drain after 30 minutes of being parked, so battery should be able to start engine after sitting for 125 days or so
If it will be sitting longer than 3 months I would unhook one battery cable
Finding a drain is tough, you need to disconnect battery cable and put an amp meter in between cable and battery, then wait 30min for the "Battery Saver circuit" to click off
Then pull fuses out in the engine fuse box to see when amp drain drops, that will localize the drain, then you have to do that in the cab fuse box on the circuits that were disable by the engine fuse box fuse
Car/truck battery's are rated with CCR(cold cranking amps), to determine how long it will last with a slow drain you need to know the Amp Hours
CCR X 0.7 = Amp hours
So a battery rated with 600CCR would have amp/hour as 600 x 0.7 = 420a/h
So if there was a 1 amp drain the battery would be TOTALLY DEAD after 420 hours(17 days)
If a 10 amp drain it would be TOTALLY DEAD in 42hours(2 days)
If 0.1amp drain the TOTALLY DEAD in 4,200 hours(175 days)
TOTALLY DEAD is of course way past "it won't start" lol, generally at 50% a battery "may" start an engine, if its cold out then probably not as batteries lose about 20% at temps close to freezing, under 40degF
CCR is suppose to be rated at 32degF but grain of salt on that
420a/h at 50% is 210a/h then 0.07 amp draw per hour = 3,000hours or 125 days
#4
Start the vehicle and "test" the charging system as an auto parts store would. Have your terminals been clean all this time?
Are the terminal clamps able to bite and hold onto the posts definitively? They bend (and break!) and lose solid contact.
If your battery has taken any kind of beating, take it out of the vehicle and give it a full charge. Measure the voltage when done then the next morning.
Keep the meter handy as you may be measuring voltage frequently.
How old is this battery? If it's original, it's ancient!
Check where the red cable connects to the starter. I fitted a battery once and got nothing. I had failed to tighten the nut on the stud of the starter sufficiently.
Corrosion in the cables' clamps (swags) will interfere with charging. Inspection might not be easy as the swag is around the cable's end and covers it.
If you've slack enough you can cut off a suspect swagged clamp and fit a new clamp.
Make sure the engine to frame ground is intact.
You got some basic charging system inspections to perform.
My incorrect battery (a 6 1/2 year old G58 which was in the truck when I bought it) still started my Ranger but a voltage check revealed it was a "failed battery" by quite a margin.
I bought a correctly sized G59 (a bit larger than the G58 in both dimension and CCA) and I enjoy a NECESSARY measure of confidence now that cold weather is here.
Go to someone who knows if necessary.
Are the terminal clamps able to bite and hold onto the posts definitively? They bend (and break!) and lose solid contact.
If your battery has taken any kind of beating, take it out of the vehicle and give it a full charge. Measure the voltage when done then the next morning.
Keep the meter handy as you may be measuring voltage frequently.
How old is this battery? If it's original, it's ancient!
Check where the red cable connects to the starter. I fitted a battery once and got nothing. I had failed to tighten the nut on the stud of the starter sufficiently.
Corrosion in the cables' clamps (swags) will interfere with charging. Inspection might not be easy as the swag is around the cable's end and covers it.
If you've slack enough you can cut off a suspect swagged clamp and fit a new clamp.
Make sure the engine to frame ground is intact.
You got some basic charging system inspections to perform.
My incorrect battery (a 6 1/2 year old G58 which was in the truck when I bought it) still started my Ranger but a voltage check revealed it was a "failed battery" by quite a margin.
I bought a correctly sized G59 (a bit larger than the G58 in both dimension and CCA) and I enjoy a NECESSARY measure of confidence now that cold weather is here.
Go to someone who knows if necessary.
The battery is 3 weeks old.
#5
On Wed I started the Ranger fine and moved it to the front of our house for 6 hours and it wouldn't start. I ran the charger on it for 30 mins and was able to start it to move in drive way. On Thurs I put the charger back on for 30 mins to move it back out of driveway (having outside work done on house that's why I keep moving it). Turned key and there was nothing. The anti theft light kept flashing and beeping. I tried to put it in neutral to push it back and it would not let me.
Edit to add Ranger was at dealer 2 weeks ago for air bag recall.
Edit to add Ranger was at dealer 2 weeks ago for air bag recall.
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