Bogging out in first gear and not wanting to start
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From: Harrisburg
Bogging out in first gear and not wanting to start
94 ranger 3.0
So I had a fuel pump fuse go bad, not sure why hopefully just old.
I put in a fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel relay also
Now that all that is good. I can start truck an runs fine cold. Then went to town to get fuel an would not start. I could pop start no problem then it starts not wanting to go in first gear unless I get high rpms. I had to pump accelerator. To be able to get high rpms to even get rolling. Also some times when taking a corner in second it bugs. 3rd, 4th, and over drive no bogging. I am stumped. I could sure use some good advise other than sell the thing I recently bought it and kind of attached to it already
So I had a fuel pump fuse go bad, not sure why hopefully just old.
I put in a fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel relay also
Now that all that is good. I can start truck an runs fine cold. Then went to town to get fuel an would not start. I could pop start no problem then it starts not wanting to go in first gear unless I get high rpms. I had to pump accelerator. To be able to get high rpms to even get rolling. Also some times when taking a corner in second it bugs. 3rd, 4th, and over drive no bogging. I am stumped. I could sure use some good advise other than sell the thing I recently bought it and kind of attached to it already
Welcome to the forum
1994 3.0l Ranger was last year for a distributor on any Ranger, 1995 and up 3.0l was distributorless
1994 was also last year for the EEC-IV computer, OBD1, 1995 and up use the EEC-V computer, which Ford still uses today, OBD2
These used TFI Spark system which was known to get heat sensitive although 3.0l had TFI spark module located by radiator so less likely to get hot
There is a SPOUT connector on the TFI wiring it is removed when you set base spark timing for a tuneup and then re-installed for driving, SPOUT is for "vacuum advance" so without it the engine will be sluggish
It would start fine, acceleration would be poor, warm or cold
I would test battery voltage when cranking engine
i.e. disconnect coil wire from distributor or coil
Have Volt Meter on battery
Have someone crank the engine while you watch the battery volts drop, should be no lower than 9.8volts, 10volts is best
If its dropping lower then Spark would be too weak to start engine, and this is why "Pop start" worked, no voltage drop from starter motor so good spark
New battery with key off would show 12.8volts
12.5volts is 3 year old battery
12.3volts is 5 year old battery and time to shop for Battery Sales
12.2volt or lower is a drained or failing battery
With engine running battery voltage should be 13.5 to 14.9volts
14.5-14.9volts just after starting
13.5-13.9volts after engine has been running for 10+ minutes without shutting it off
This means alternator is working
1994 3.0l Ranger was last year for a distributor on any Ranger, 1995 and up 3.0l was distributorless
1994 was also last year for the EEC-IV computer, OBD1, 1995 and up use the EEC-V computer, which Ford still uses today, OBD2
These used TFI Spark system which was known to get heat sensitive although 3.0l had TFI spark module located by radiator so less likely to get hot
There is a SPOUT connector on the TFI wiring it is removed when you set base spark timing for a tuneup and then re-installed for driving, SPOUT is for "vacuum advance" so without it the engine will be sluggish
It would start fine, acceleration would be poor, warm or cold
I would test battery voltage when cranking engine
i.e. disconnect coil wire from distributor or coil
Have Volt Meter on battery
Have someone crank the engine while you watch the battery volts drop, should be no lower than 9.8volts, 10volts is best
If its dropping lower then Spark would be too weak to start engine, and this is why "Pop start" worked, no voltage drop from starter motor so good spark
New battery with key off would show 12.8volts
12.5volts is 3 year old battery
12.3volts is 5 year old battery and time to shop for Battery Sales
12.2volt or lower is a drained or failing battery
With engine running battery voltage should be 13.5 to 14.9volts
14.5-14.9volts just after starting
13.5-13.9volts after engine has been running for 10+ minutes without shutting it off
This means alternator is working
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