Buying a e fan, help
#1
Buying a e fan, help
So im buying this e fan off summit and Im confused on what i need along with it if anything.
Flex-a-lite 390 - Flex-a-lite Syclone S-Blade Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Flex-a-lite 390 - Flex-a-lite Syclone S-Blade Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com
#5
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you can walk in to any autozone/pepboys and order a brand new taurus efan with shroud for 160ish...lifetime warranty and we all know it works. If you go with that one, there are a lot of ways you can wire it up...all ways on, switched power, temp controlled, regular relay or constant duty starter relay. Look in the 3.0 section, I posted my wiring diagram
#6
Agreed, thats how I did mine in my Ranger. Goodysgotacuda also posted a great wiring diagram for it a while back. Also, use high quality parts and solder and heatshrink the connectors. This is something that can really screw you if it messes up, especially in FL where it gets really hot.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f59/ho...-2speed-69085/
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f18/wi...rus-fan-79401/
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f59/ho...-2speed-69085/
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f18/wi...rus-fan-79401/
#7
that one you displayed is a 10". You better get two of them. lol.
14" to 16" would be preferred. Make sure- if its a plastic blade- that all the blades are connected on the outer rim. If not, a water puddle can break a blade, creating an imbalance that will shake the truck. or worse- blow the fuse leaving you (unknowingly) with out a fan until the truck overheats.
you need to be carefull. If it doesn't push enough air, and in combination with an underdrive pulley, you may get less than satisfactory results from the air conditioning.
14" to 16" would be preferred. Make sure- if its a plastic blade- that all the blades are connected on the outer rim. If not, a water puddle can break a blade, creating an imbalance that will shake the truck. or worse- blow the fuse leaving you (unknowingly) with out a fan until the truck overheats.
you need to be carefull. If it doesn't push enough air, and in combination with an underdrive pulley, you may get less than satisfactory results from the air conditioning.
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I wired my relays independently from eachother so if one of them failed, I still had the other as a backup...something to think about! I also carry a spare relay just in case one of them fails, but havent needed it so far. Lots of ways you can wire up the fan, just have to think about it a little.
#9
One thing I would do if I did it again is wire a forced on and forced off. So if your going through a deep water crossing you can turn it off and not worry about screwing it up. Or if you lose a relay or something goes wrong you can force it on. Better safe than sorry when your messing with engine cooling.
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a switch wont run the fan for long, it will be too much power for the toggle and will burn up...might as well just jump the relay and run right off the batt. An on-off-on toggle like my setup would allow u to turn off the fan if crossing deep water, but youre still dealing with 1 single switch controlling the entire system. If your switch goes, ur system is done unless you bridge stuff. If I were to do it over again, I would add an AC compressor switch...maybe work off pressure or simply have the fan come on with the compressor but I dont want the damn thing coming on at hwy speeds and dont wanna be flipping the switch to off everytime I get on the fwy. Its tough trying to keep it simple but have every functionality...gotta sacrifice in order to simplify :(
#11
#12
Ok, as already stated, that fans too small, I have run a few of the flex-a-lite setups and am happy with the 485 model ( they claim 3300 cfm )- its in a 4.0 Jeep but you get the idea, I'm in FL and its for offroad use so it gets hot and that fan actually works well enough to run a/c at full blast while offroading here and / rockcrawling in Moab, with no worry of overheating.
Wiring, follow the instructions with the kit, I would also suggest getting one of the fans with the thermostat controller and cpu installed that way you cover you *** when your out.
Also its wired for the thermostat to shut it off / on when its needed and also with the cpu installed types, it will force the unit to run if you have power to the a/c just to keep you from burning up...
I've run it through a hardwired switch so I can turn it off when I decide to swim and as long as the a/c isnt on ( because it over-rides the switch) the fan stays off. Otherwise you have to spend the $18.50 plus shipping for the new blade, because I didn't notice the wife had the a/c on.... ( Yeah, I'll blame her)
- been running it like this since 2000 and havn't burned out a switch yet so I'd say its good...
Wiring, follow the instructions with the kit, I would also suggest getting one of the fans with the thermostat controller and cpu installed that way you cover you *** when your out.
Also its wired for the thermostat to shut it off / on when its needed and also with the cpu installed types, it will force the unit to run if you have power to the a/c just to keep you from burning up...
I've run it through a hardwired switch so I can turn it off when I decide to swim and as long as the a/c isnt on ( because it over-rides the switch) the fan stays off. Otherwise you have to spend the $18.50 plus shipping for the new blade, because I didn't notice the wife had the a/c on.... ( Yeah, I'll blame her)
- been running it like this since 2000 and havn't burned out a switch yet so I'd say its good...
Last edited by Y2KTJ; 07-08-2010 at 11:09 PM. Reason: added cfm
#14
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