A/C compressor issues
A/C compressor issues
Hello, been following these forums anonymously for a while but am having problems with my 96 ranger 3.0
the ac compressor locked up, so I replaced the compressor, the drier, orfice tube, and all o rings and after installing said compressor the clutch won’t engage. Now I have checked fuse 18 in cab and it’s fine. The relay #4 in distribution box is also fine. I have jumped both the high and low pressure switches and the clutch still hasn’t come on, the system held 30 pounds of vacuum for hours and was recharged and oiled to spec by one of the robin air recharging systems so it’s not low on Freon. I tested the connector to the compressor and I only got a ground on the plug never any power to the connector. What should I check next in regards to the connector not having power or what else should I check. Thanks I’m advance been scratching my head over this for about a week now.
the ac compressor locked up, so I replaced the compressor, the drier, orfice tube, and all o rings and after installing said compressor the clutch won’t engage. Now I have checked fuse 18 in cab and it’s fine. The relay #4 in distribution box is also fine. I have jumped both the high and low pressure switches and the clutch still hasn’t come on, the system held 30 pounds of vacuum for hours and was recharged and oiled to spec by one of the robin air recharging systems so it’s not low on Freon. I tested the connector to the compressor and I only got a ground on the plug never any power to the connector. What should I check next in regards to the connector not having power or what else should I check. Thanks I’m advance been scratching my head over this for about a week now.
Welcome to first post in the forum
Wiring diagram below
With Key on the 12volts from fuse 18 in the cab runs to the dash switch, if AC is selected(or Defrost), that 12v runs out of the firewall to the first pressure switch(cycle or low pressure switch)
It then runs to the high pressure switch, and then to the WOT(wide open throttle) relay, this MUST BE a 5 pin relay, as it only passes the 12v to AC Clutch when its OFF, yes OFF, so its not an AC relay per-say, its an AC cutoff relay
None of the other wiring in the diagram will effect AC Clutch from coming on, not the blower motor, the bend door or the computer(PCM)
fuse 18-----------dash switch--------//-------------pressure switch----pressure switch-------------WOT relay------------------AC clutch---------ground
So test if there is 12volts at fuse 18 with key on
Make sure AC is ON at dash switch
Go to engine bay
Test if purple wire at first pressure switch has 12v, if not then issue with dash switch or wire to switch from fuse 18
Test red/yellow wire at next pressure switch, first switch needs to be plugged back in
Pull out WOT relay, test all slots for 12volts, should be TWO slots with 12volts
Make sure its a 5 pin relay, replace it if its only 4 pin
Wiring diagram below
With Key on the 12volts from fuse 18 in the cab runs to the dash switch, if AC is selected(or Defrost), that 12v runs out of the firewall to the first pressure switch(cycle or low pressure switch)
It then runs to the high pressure switch, and then to the WOT(wide open throttle) relay, this MUST BE a 5 pin relay, as it only passes the 12v to AC Clutch when its OFF, yes OFF, so its not an AC relay per-say, its an AC cutoff relay
None of the other wiring in the diagram will effect AC Clutch from coming on, not the blower motor, the bend door or the computer(PCM)
fuse 18-----------dash switch--------//-------------pressure switch----pressure switch-------------WOT relay------------------AC clutch---------ground
So test if there is 12volts at fuse 18 with key on
Make sure AC is ON at dash switch
Go to engine bay
Test if purple wire at first pressure switch has 12v, if not then issue with dash switch or wire to switch from fuse 18
Test red/yellow wire at next pressure switch, first switch needs to be plugged back in
Pull out WOT relay, test all slots for 12volts, should be TWO slots with 12volts
Make sure its a 5 pin relay, replace it if its only 4 pin
No, they don't, AC is an added on system, no connection to anything else in pretty much any vehicle
This is the whole system
fuse 18-----------dash switch--------//-------------pressure switch----pressure switch-------------WOT relay------------------AC clutch---------ground
If you don't get 12v at the AC Clutch then there is a break in the pathway
Find out where the 12volts stops, then run a new wire, you do not take harness's apart unless you are a glutton for punishment, lol
Start with fuse 18, does it have 12volts with key on, pull out the fuse and test both terminals, one will have 12v, key on
Fuse 18, 22 and 26 are all key on power from the same wire on ignition switch
I think 1996 WOT relay should look like this: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/...iring-840x.jpg
30 and 87A should be the 12v in and "to AC clutch" wires, doesn't matter which is which
If you jumper those 2 slots together then WOT relay is out of the flow, so if AC clutch hsd power now then WOT relay is bad
AC compressor is either on or off, no temp control, just pressure switches to keep compressor from "running dry"(low side), or blowing off connections(high side)
This is the whole system
fuse 18-----------dash switch--------//-------------pressure switch----pressure switch-------------WOT relay------------------AC clutch---------ground
If you don't get 12v at the AC Clutch then there is a break in the pathway
Find out where the 12volts stops, then run a new wire, you do not take harness's apart unless you are a glutton for punishment, lol
Start with fuse 18, does it have 12volts with key on, pull out the fuse and test both terminals, one will have 12v, key on
Fuse 18, 22 and 26 are all key on power from the same wire on ignition switch
I think 1996 WOT relay should look like this: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/...iring-840x.jpg
30 and 87A should be the 12v in and "to AC clutch" wires, doesn't matter which is which
If you jumper those 2 slots together then WOT relay is out of the flow, so if AC clutch hsd power now then WOT relay is bad
AC compressor is either on or off, no temp control, just pressure switches to keep compressor from "running dry"(low side), or blowing off connections(high side)
Last edited by RonD; Sep 25, 2023 at 09:11 PM.
Okay, but all of the relays and switches check out the the plug to the compressor doesn’t have power. So I just need to know where all that harness goes to I can find where to route a new wire to the plug.
Test fuse 18 for 12volts, FIRST
Test First Pressure switch for 12volts
Not sure what you mean by relay and switches "check out", tell us the voltage at each connection
Either there is 12volts present or there is not
You need to follow the 12volt path to find out where a wire of connection is broken
Test First Pressure switch for 12volts
Not sure what you mean by relay and switches "check out", tell us the voltage at each connection
Either there is 12volts present or there is not
You need to follow the 12volt path to find out where a wire of connection is broken
If WOT relay socket has 12v in 2 slots then jumper it to test if wire to AC clutch is OK
What you want as far as what wires are in what harness's may not be available
Best place to look is Ford's 1996 Ranger EVTM(electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual)
Seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234929233292
Ford sends these out as part of the Shop Manual set every year for every model that year
Its so Ford techs can troubleshoot new vehicles
It "may" have the harness you want, but they tend to say "test the wire" if it fails replace the harness, they don't repair or replace individual wires, they replace the whole harness
AC might have a separate harness so simple to replace, but if it does you should be able to trace it pretty easily
What you want as far as what wires are in what harness's may not be available
Best place to look is Ford's 1996 Ranger EVTM(electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual)
Seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234929233292
Ford sends these out as part of the Shop Manual set every year for every model that year
Its so Ford techs can troubleshoot new vehicles
It "may" have the harness you want, but they tend to say "test the wire" if it fails replace the harness, they don't repair or replace individual wires, they replace the whole harness
AC might have a separate harness so simple to replace, but if it does you should be able to trace it pretty easily
No, you have to buy hard copies pre-2000 or so
Ford did start doing CD Shop Manuals in the 1990s, no PDF yet, but these CDs were fairly general i.e. "Ford Truck" CD, not really model specific
Adobe introduced PDF format in 1993 but wasn't really in full swing until late 1990's
Ford did start doing CD Shop Manuals in the 1990s, no PDF yet, but these CDs were fairly general i.e. "Ford Truck" CD, not really model specific
Adobe introduced PDF format in 1993 but wasn't really in full swing until late 1990's
So if I can find where the wire lost power just cut out the old part and splice a new wire and fish it up to the connector and solder it? What’s the best way to fix a damaged wire in the engine bay like that.
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Nighttrain77
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