disable anti-theft crap
ic, so basically you do the same thing as when you program your keyfob? my truck came w/ 2 keyfobs but one wasnt programmed. i thought i was gonna have to go to the dealer to do it but the manual shows you how to do it w/ the ignition combonation.
FWIW, VW charges over 100 for keys. Mostly because they are keyless entry. Still cost you 100 for them to cut and program.
Feel lucky.
You will either bypass the system, spend cash to unmarry the pcm from the antitheft, or give in to the dealer.
Your choice. They are no other options. Short of a engine swap.
Feel lucky.
You will either bypass the system, spend cash to unmarry the pcm from the antitheft, or give in to the dealer.
Your choice. They are no other options. Short of a engine swap.
The dealer is not going to disable it for you no matter how much paperwork you show them.
You can either pay for they keys, or glue the chip to the ignition cylinder. It isn't going to break or fall off unless you drive the truck off a cliff. I have never heard of or read about a single instance of PATS system failure. You're making this into way too big a deal.
And the only way someone is going to steal a PATS protected vehicles is with a tow truck.
You can either pay for they keys, or glue the chip to the ignition cylinder. It isn't going to break or fall off unless you drive the truck off a cliff. I have never heard of or read about a single instance of PATS system failure. You're making this into way too big a deal.
And the only way someone is going to steal a PATS protected vehicles is with a tow truck.
His was the only one I heard of doing that.
With such a limited run of cars its very possible the new guy in the wiring department didn't crimp something all the way. His car absolutely had some wiring issue.
As far as the ranger if its worked everyday since new I doubt its going to fail because the key is now on board 24/7.
Secrets
I have the same problem. I'm guessing the reason we spend $1000 to not get our car fixed is because there are no real mechanics left. They have gone the way of the dinosaur. Along with chewing gum and bailing wire. I wonder if im the only person on Gods green earth who sees an internal combustion engine under the hood that all those fancy bells and whistles are attached to and not the other way around. 3 things are needed for my engine to run. None of which are a computer. I will eleminate mine. The car companies have built a house of straw.
Carburetor and distributor is how gas engines ran without a computer
Fuel injection requires a controller for best results, best MPG and best Power
They started calling this controller a computer because thats what it did, it "computed" open time for fuel injectors in real time.
What we think a computer is now-a-days is a far cry from a calculator, which is essentially what a fuel injection computer is.
"Computer" controlled fuel injection and ignition(spark) is far superior to carb and distributor setups.
More reliable and better MPG and power.
Gas engines still work the same, big 3:
Spark
Fuel
Compression
So troubleshooting is the same
Just need the new knowledge of how the electronic systems work
Same as you needed the knowledge of of how a carb and distributor worked
Fuel injection requires a controller for best results, best MPG and best Power
They started calling this controller a computer because thats what it did, it "computed" open time for fuel injectors in real time.
What we think a computer is now-a-days is a far cry from a calculator, which is essentially what a fuel injection computer is.
"Computer" controlled fuel injection and ignition(spark) is far superior to carb and distributor setups.
More reliable and better MPG and power.
Gas engines still work the same, big 3:
Spark
Fuel
Compression
So troubleshooting is the same
Just need the new knowledge of how the electronic systems work
Same as you needed the knowledge of of how a carb and distributor worked
Well it has failed on my truck 2000 XLT immobilizer light kicked on not recognising either of my 2 keys i have had the truck 12 years. I tried to do a bypass wired to the ignition it fires up but cuts out when i let go of key from start position as the immobizer light is still flashing that it dont recognise the key. Real pain in **** spent ages trying the bypass method leads me to think ECU or ignition barrel might be the problem
Welcome to the forum
Turn on the key and let the THEFT light flash for 60 seconds and it will start to flash a two digit code
Codes here:
1:2 Transceiver communications error, this is the Antenna Ring around the ignition key slot
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV
2000 Ranger uses PATS A so has a separate PATS module above the glove box, it reads the key in ignition then sends a "start" or "no start" message to the computer(EECV)
The Module also controls starter motor
A low battery can trigger PATS and cause flashing THEFT light
Clean battery terminals
PATS does just quite, its actually a very reliable system, problems are usually wiring or electrical voltage
One PATS key can fail, but TWO would be a long shot
Turn on the key and let the THEFT light flash for 60 seconds and it will start to flash a two digit code
Codes here:
1:2 Transceiver communications error, this is the Antenna Ring around the ignition key slot
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV
2000 Ranger uses PATS A so has a separate PATS module above the glove box, it reads the key in ignition then sends a "start" or "no start" message to the computer(EECV)
The Module also controls starter motor
A low battery can trigger PATS and cause flashing THEFT light
Clean battery terminals
PATS does just quite, its actually a very reliable system, problems are usually wiring or electrical voltage
One PATS key can fail, but TWO would be a long shot
Hi I'm new here so not sure if my post is in the right place. I see this thread is from awhile ago.
I need advice.
2009 ranger 2.3 auto 2 whl dr., 200,000 miles
speedo and tach were acting goofy, zero and back to norm over and over
test at autozone says battery low
charged battery, clean all cables, now 12.5 v in battery
next, no crank, no start, anti theft light flashing, dash lights working
replace starter with reman
next, no crank, no start, no power to dash,
next replace ign elec switch under steering column with new switch
no change
next find the Antenna Ring around the ignition key slot looks damaged
tried to tape for quick fix, nothing
Is it probable damaged ring is culprit and if so can i relpace with new ring from amazon or feebay
Does new ring need programming or marriage to modules etc
I only have the 1 key since I bought used, and dont need any anti theft for this truck, believe me.
Any help is appreciated and I will add to this forum if I get it fixed so others can use info
thank you
I need advice.
2009 ranger 2.3 auto 2 whl dr., 200,000 miles
speedo and tach were acting goofy, zero and back to norm over and over
test at autozone says battery low
charged battery, clean all cables, now 12.5 v in battery
next, no crank, no start, anti theft light flashing, dash lights working
replace starter with reman
next, no crank, no start, no power to dash,
next replace ign elec switch under steering column with new switch
no change
next find the Antenna Ring around the ignition key slot looks damaged
tried to tape for quick fix, nothing
Is it probable damaged ring is culprit and if so can i relpace with new ring from amazon or feebay
Does new ring need programming or marriage to modules etc
I only have the 1 key since I bought used, and dont need any anti theft for this truck, believe me.
Any help is appreciated and I will add to this forum if I get it fixed so others can use info
thank you
Update
anti theft ring circular antenna is not broken but there is a small clip with red/black wire goes into a yellow harness under side of steering column.
Is there a way to test the circular antenna? (transceiver)
anti theft ring circular antenna is not broken but there is a small clip with red/black wire goes into a yellow harness under side of steering column.
Is there a way to test the circular antenna? (transceiver)
Welcome to the forum
The transceiver can be replaced without reprogramming, its just a powered antenna
It uses 4 wires, 2 for 12v/ground, 2 for signal to PATS(passive anti-theft system) which is in the instrument cluster in 2009 Ranger
If you "lock" light flashes rapidly with Key on then yes, that is whats causing the no crank/no start
If you let it flash for 1 minute it will start to flash a 2 digit code, that will tell you whats wrong with PATS
1:2 Transceiver not connected
1:3 Key code not received. Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and Computer
The transceivers do break on these, so best to get a replacement if you think thats the problem
Battery voltage needs to be tested AFTER vehicle has been sitting for at least 4 hours, overnight is better
12.8v is new battery
12.3v is 5/6 year old battery, look for battery sales
12.2v or less is dead battery, end of life
When battery voltage gets to 12.2v or lower when you start the engine the starter motor draw pulls voltage down to 9volts or less and the electronics, like the PATS systems will cause issues
Cranking voltage at the battery should be about 10volts, if you want to test yours
The transceiver can be replaced without reprogramming, its just a powered antenna
It uses 4 wires, 2 for 12v/ground, 2 for signal to PATS(passive anti-theft system) which is in the instrument cluster in 2009 Ranger
If you "lock" light flashes rapidly with Key on then yes, that is whats causing the no crank/no start
If you let it flash for 1 minute it will start to flash a 2 digit code, that will tell you whats wrong with PATS
1:2 Transceiver not connected
1:3 Key code not received. Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty.
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key.
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and Computer
The transceivers do break on these, so best to get a replacement if you think thats the problem
Battery voltage needs to be tested AFTER vehicle has been sitting for at least 4 hours, overnight is better
12.8v is new battery
12.3v is 5/6 year old battery, look for battery sales
12.2v or less is dead battery, end of life
When battery voltage gets to 12.2v or lower when you start the engine the starter motor draw pulls voltage down to 9volts or less and the electronics, like the PATS systems will cause issues
Cranking voltage at the battery should be about 10volts, if you want to test yours
Anti theft crap
Hey folks,
So, I just bought a 2000 XLT, and was going to get another key for it.
$103 at one dealership and $120 at another.
No. That's retarded.
I got a normal key made that will just open the door, and will turn in the ignition. If it weren't for that freaking anti-theft crap, I could spend 3 dollars for a working key. These guys want me to spend 103?! Things get lost. Keys especially.
Has anyone disabled whatever silly crap requires a chip in the key to start the truck?
So far as I'm concerned, that's just one more thing to go wrong anyway.
There has to be a way to do it. Any of y'all done it?
I'm not trying to steal my own truck. I promise!
So, I just bought a 2000 XLT, and was going to get another key for it.
$103 at one dealership and $120 at another.
No. That's retarded.
I got a normal key made that will just open the door, and will turn in the ignition. If it weren't for that freaking anti-theft crap, I could spend 3 dollars for a working key. These guys want me to spend 103?! Things get lost. Keys especially.
Has anyone disabled whatever silly crap requires a chip in the key to start the truck?
So far as I'm concerned, that's just one more thing to go wrong anyway.
There has to be a way to do it. Any of y'all done it?
I'm not trying to steal my own truck. I promise!

Im in the same loop here as you bud. Be great to find out about it.
im with ya on this. i own a 11 ranger and i spent 150 bucks on a new key once already and as a trucker my keys travel everywhere with me. As well as another thing to go wrong. Been looking for how to get rid of the ATs and seems like theres no info on actually getting rid of it. Thought about going to a mech shop and asking about it.
Im in the same loop here as you bud. Be great to find out about it.
Im in the same loop here as you bud. Be great to find out about it.
You can add keys with Forscan software and laptop, but still need to have them cut
Locksmiths can often Clone your working PATS key, cut new key and put old key's transponder number inside it, can be cheaper
PATS anti-theft is inside the engine computer so not a separate system
Engine computer tuners can often delete the PATS when they do the tune
My 09 ranger decided I was trying to steal it after I had battery disconnected overnite. Thought it was the starter solenoid, can't replace separatly so I bought new starter ($185), no change, new ign switch under column, no change, had 2 different locksmiths to my house, no change, 1 charged $95...bought used dash cluster from feebay...no change, new computer from internet...no change....had a neighbor (works at Ford) come to house..he told me put everything back the way it was but he still couldn't fix....no change....bought an 03 Ranger that I use now and 09 sits in the pasture for the horses to play with, perhaps I'll plant an herb garden in the box next Spring. I like the Ford Rangers but the PATS is ridiculous system obviously to make money for Ford. Does anyone know what the value is for an 09 that can't be used as a truck anymore?
You can't swap clusters or computers separately on 2004 and up Rangers, these guys should have known that?
Ford Dealer can, with a data link to Ford's main computer(not sure where in the US that is located), process takes about 45min, its slow on purpose, the two units need to be "married" so they can "talk" on power up, no "talk" = no start
The HEC cluster'(2004 and up) can display Codes that will tell you what is wrong with PATS system, if thats the cause of the problem
Fast flashing "theft" light at Key On indicates PATS problem, and that sets a code, a "B" code, not a "P" code, B = body, P = powertrain
The 2005 Ranger didn't have PATS, it was skipped that year, never tried it but a matched pair, cluster and computer(they still need to be "married"), from a 2005 Ranger with same engine and trans as your 2009 should work, 2wd or 4x4 don't matter
Google: ford hec (hybrid electronic cluster)
to see how to get the codes
Ford Dealer can, with a data link to Ford's main computer(not sure where in the US that is located), process takes about 45min, its slow on purpose, the two units need to be "married" so they can "talk" on power up, no "talk" = no start
The HEC cluster'(2004 and up) can display Codes that will tell you what is wrong with PATS system, if thats the cause of the problem
Fast flashing "theft" light at Key On indicates PATS problem, and that sets a code, a "B" code, not a "P" code, B = body, P = powertrain
The 2005 Ranger didn't have PATS, it was skipped that year, never tried it but a matched pair, cluster and computer(they still need to be "married"), from a 2005 Ranger with same engine and trans as your 2009 should work, 2wd or 4x4 don't matter
Google: ford hec (hybrid electronic cluster)
to see how to get the codes
Last edited by RonD; Nov 17, 2019 at 10:30 AM.




