Fuel Pump will not engage
Fuel Pump will not engage
92 Ranger XLT.
I've changed fuel pump
Replaced relay
Reset inertia switch
Checked 30A fuse
Still no luck.
One weird thing it does is sometimes when I turn the key to acc the seatbelt light will come on and it will ding "even with door closed and all lights off" but sometimes it won't go off. When it does ding at me it only dings for a few seconds and then it stops and the seatbelt light turns off.
The only thing left I think I can do is get a multimeter and start check wires.
Any ideas?
I've changed fuel pump
Replaced relay
Reset inertia switch
Checked 30A fuse
Still no luck.
One weird thing it does is sometimes when I turn the key to acc the seatbelt light will come on and it will ding "even with door closed and all lights off" but sometimes it won't go off. When it does ding at me it only dings for a few seconds and then it stops and the seatbelt light turns off.
The only thing left I think I can do is get a multimeter and start check wires.
Any ideas?
92 Ranger XLT.
I've changed fuel pump
Replaced relay
Reset inertia switch
Checked 30A fuse
Still no luck.
One weird thing it does is sometimes when I turn the key to acc the seatbelt light will come on and it will ding "even with door closed and all lights off" but sometimes it won't go off. When it does ding at me it only dings for a few seconds and then it stops and the seatbelt light turns off.
The only thing left I think I can do is get a multimeter and start check wires.
Any ideas?
I've changed fuel pump
Replaced relay
Reset inertia switch
Checked 30A fuse
Still no luck.
One weird thing it does is sometimes when I turn the key to acc the seatbelt light will come on and it will ding "even with door closed and all lights off" but sometimes it won't go off. When it does ding at me it only dings for a few seconds and then it stops and the seatbelt light turns off.
The only thing left I think I can do is get a multimeter and start check wires.
Any ideas?
Changed the fuel filter and nothing.
I have the fuse box open and the relays below the fuse box accessible while I turn the key and I can hear 2 tick noises when I turn the key and 1 tick noise when I turn it off. There are only 2 relays on the underside of the fuse box.
I have the fuse box open and the relays below the fuse box accessible while I turn the key and I can hear 2 tick noises when I turn the key and 1 tick noise when I turn it off. There are only 2 relays on the underside of the fuse box.
Ford computer only runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds when key is turned on, it won't start again until engine does, so pain to test voltages that way.
Find the self test connector in the engine compartment, by the firewall drivers side or passenger side
Picture here: Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines
You will see the Fuel Pump slot labelled
That is the ground for the fuel pump relay, so if the key is on and you use a short jumper wire to ground that slot the fuel pump relay with click closed and pass power to the fuel pump.
If fuel pump comes on then computer could be the problem
With that jumper wire in place you can now start to check voltages at the inertia switch, both wires should have 12volts.
And at the fuel pump.
Relay with Green base is fuel pump relay, Brown base is EEC relay, EEC = computer, this relay also powers injectors and ignition
3rd relay would be there if you had air conditioning
Find the self test connector in the engine compartment, by the firewall drivers side or passenger side
Picture here: Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines
You will see the Fuel Pump slot labelled
That is the ground for the fuel pump relay, so if the key is on and you use a short jumper wire to ground that slot the fuel pump relay with click closed and pass power to the fuel pump.
If fuel pump comes on then computer could be the problem
With that jumper wire in place you can now start to check voltages at the inertia switch, both wires should have 12volts.
And at the fuel pump.
Relay with Green base is fuel pump relay, Brown base is EEC relay, EEC = computer, this relay also powers injectors and ignition
3rd relay would be there if you had air conditioning
Last edited by RonD; Aug 19, 2015 at 06:34 PM.
Seemed like a clever idea but I tried it and no dice, nothing different.
I still think it's odd that my seatbelt light will come on for a moment when I turn the key forward and it will sometimes ding once at me and sometimes continue dinging at me.
Sometimes even when I pull the key out of the ignition and have all lights off and doors closed it will still ding at me.
Anyways, any other ideas?
I still think it's odd that my seatbelt light will come on for a moment when I turn the key forward and it will sometimes ding once at me and sometimes continue dinging at me.
Sometimes even when I pull the key out of the ignition and have all lights off and doors closed it will still ding at me.
Anyways, any other ideas?
??
After you install the jumper the power to the fuel pump will on(if key is) this is the only way you can test for power going to the fuel pump.
So did the fuel pump relay click when you grounded the jumper?
Then click again when you ungrounded it?
If so Ground it and then follow the power pathway back to the fuel pump.
Ignition switch is under the steering wheel if you think it is loose.
It has nothing to do with fuel pump operation except for turning on EEC relay, and you said that did "click"
After you install the jumper the power to the fuel pump will on(if key is) this is the only way you can test for power going to the fuel pump.
So did the fuel pump relay click when you grounded the jumper?
Then click again when you ungrounded it?
If so Ground it and then follow the power pathway back to the fuel pump.
Ignition switch is under the steering wheel if you think it is loose.
It has nothing to do with fuel pump operation except for turning on EEC relay, and you said that did "click"
Pictures here, but mislabelled: Location of the fuel pump relay? - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"®
Green is Fuel Pump relay, Black is WOT(wide open throttle) relay, Brown EEC relay
Unless 1992 was different from '91 and '93
If you have AC then you are missing a relay so I would look around, something is fishy
Green is Fuel Pump relay, Black is WOT(wide open throttle) relay, Brown EEC relay
Unless 1992 was different from '91 and '93
If you have AC then you are missing a relay so I would look around, something is fishy
That's also what I thought that something wasn't right because every diagram I had saw had 3 relays and everyone has been saying green is for fuel pump. I'll do a little searching and see if it might've come unmounted from the bottom of the fuse box after work.
I have black and brown relays.
I have black and brown relays.
Fuel pump relay should have a Black/yellow stripe wire coming from the 30amp fuse
A dark Green/yellow stripe wire going out to inertia switch
A light Blue/orange stripe wire going to computer(and OBDI self test port)
And a Red wire for relay power coming from EEC relay
A dark Green/yellow stripe wire going out to inertia switch
A light Blue/orange stripe wire going to computer(and OBDI self test port)
And a Red wire for relay power coming from EEC relay
Got her figured out!
The green/black relay for the fuel pump had a broken clip and came unmounted from the bottom of the fuse box and had fell down into the compartment. Changed the relay and fired right up. Had a lot of nasty gook and corrosion in the plug that I cleaned out.
Thank you for all the help!
The green/black relay for the fuel pump had a broken clip and came unmounted from the bottom of the fuse box and had fell down into the compartment. Changed the relay and fired right up. Had a lot of nasty gook and corrosion in the plug that I cleaned out.
Thank you for all the help!
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