According to the diagram the computer causes the relay to turn the pump on and off. So... You can either bypass the relay by connecting two relay pins with a jumper wire and see if the fuel pump comes on or you can put your meter on one of the pins on the inertia switch connector and check for momentary 2 second voltage when you turn the ignition switch on. In short we need to follow the voltage to the pump.

Btw - I think you should get 12v on 86 an 30 in the diagram below when the key is on. Jump 87 and 30 to by pass the relay (and computer!)and turn the fuel pump on.



Edit: With key on you should get voltage on pins 85 and 86 as well. In fact, I'll go out on a limb as say this could be the problem, the relay isn't getting pulled down.

 

Thanks man...I'm gonna get back on it tomorrow.
I appreciate your help!

 

update.. had a chance to fool around with the truck a little more today. For whatever reason, the pump is now coming on and I'm getting fuel to the port where the fuel pressure is checked, as evidenced by fuel squirting all over creation when I turn the key on. Time to start looking at firing issues maybe?

 

Maybe, but..................is fuel getting into the cylinders?

Crank engine over a few times and then pull out a spark plug, tip should be WET with gasoline if Injectors are opening

The Computer times fuel injectors by getting a timing pulse from TFI module(distributor) or crank sensor(distributorless)
If no timing pulse then no injectors, computer doesn't even known you are trying to start the engine without that pulse

 

Thanks Ron, I'll try that next..any plug, I guess?

 

Yup, which ever is easiest to get to

 

Ron, I followed your suggestion. Cranked the engine (over it didn't start) and then pulled number one and number four plugs. Both wet with gas. I'm more of a carbureted small block Chevy guy so the whole fuel injection thing is still a broad horizon of learning that awaits me. What would you suggest next? TIA..Oh, what is this?

 

2000 Ranger 3.0l No start

With WET spark plugs

Only thing that makes sense is coil is unplugged or is not getting 12volts with key on, unless computer has failed

Distributorless engines uses a Crank sensor for timing: 3.0l shown here: https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/att...oth-marked.jpg

The Crank sensor reads "fins" on the back of crank pulley, this sensor starts to send a timing pulse to computer as soon as crank/fins starts to turn
This timing pulse is used to time spark AND fuel injectors, there is a missing fin that denotes #1 at TDC
So no crank sensor pulse means no spark AND no fuel, so can't see crank sensor being the issue

Computer controls both spark and fuel in 2000, 1995 and up Rangers

The coil pack has 4 wires, Red wire should have 12v with key on, that 12volts comes from fuse 19 in cab fuse box, 25amp

If you have 12v on red wire with key on then its one of two things

The Tone Ring(fins) has shifted, broken, so spark timing is off
Or computer spark circuit has failed

The system is actually easier to work on than old carb distributor setup, once you start to recognize what does what, same as you had to do when learning carbs and distributors, lol.

 

Thanks man... that'll keep me busy for a little while😁

 

I have 12 volts to that red wire with the key on. If you were me, what would you do next? I dont think it's getting fire to the plug...I appreciate your help very much!!

 

 

I've changed out the coil pack, the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor. What the hell else can it be? The PCM?

 

Did you do a 50/50 test?

Spray gasoline or ether into the engine and try to start it
If it starts then dies you are NOT getting fuel into the engine, fuel injectors are not opening or no fuel pressure
If it doesn't start then you do NOT have spark at the right time, timing is off or NO/LOW compression
50/50

 

I shall perform that test. Spray fuel into the throttle body?

 

I shall perform that test. Spray fuel into the throttle body?