Hi, first time on the forum, have a truck with few issues that I hope you guys will be able to help me with. I've looked around here and I can't see this exact problem mentioned before

The indicators, wipers and screen wash will only function with the electrics on but the engine off. Once the engine is running none of those functions work. The high beam function of the steering column switch still works as it should. The switch itself is new 3 months ago, and as I said works great as long as the engine is off.

Not sure where to start with that, obviously the switch and the flasher relay are good or I would be seeing something different. Could there be another relay somewhere that's toast? Not a huge amount of experience with automotive so any help would be appreciated.

95 2.3L Manual

Thanks in advance

 

Below is the wiring diagram for 1995 2.3l Ranger, power distribution.

The ignition switch is under the steering column, when you turn the key a bar/rod slides ignition switch into its 4 positions, ACC, OFF, RUN, START

In below diagram you will see there are 4 Yellow "power" wires going into ignition switch
Each of those yellow wires powers another wire(circuit) in the Cab fuse panel when key is turned to RUN.

When key is in RUN(on) first yellow wire(B1) powers Black/green(A1) wire which powers 3 fuses in the cab fuse panel, and only those 3
If that B1 wire or the A1 wire wasn't working then you would lose power at those 3 fuses, and only those 3 fuses

So you can lose just some circuits if any one of these wires or ignition switch itself is not working.

Does key feel loose, without starting engine turn on the wipers and wiggle the key back and forth to see if ignition switch is cutting off power

 

Thanks for the fast response.

The key doesn't seem abnormally loose although from looking at the diagram I see the radio is fed from the same wire and it seems to be out too (I don't really use it). The wipers run continually no matter how much I wiggle the key.

Are the indicators on B1/A1 also? I don't see them mentioned anywhere on this diagram.

Thanks again. M

 

It has Flasher in the second group isn't that what you mean by "indicators", turn indicators

If you mean Warning lights on dash then GEM Module is what controls those and its on same circuit as wipers, the first one

RAP module, is for keyless entry(fobs), just FYI

 

Ah so Flasher numbered 4 on Fuse 22.

Yes I mean turn indicators, blinkers you might say.

OK well thanks for the help, looks like I'm taking the column apart again. M

 

Ignition switch is under the steering column above brake pedal area

Video of its removal here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3I2oye8OpQ

 

After checking the seating of the wires to the connector and all reachable wiring, is there any kind test I can do on the switch or is it even necessary? Could it be anything else? Is it just a straight replacement solution and nothing else?

Thanks. M

 

I would test the wiper fuse for power with key on and then key on engine running

Now the only thing that changes is that the battery is not powering the system when engine is running, a battery has 12.3 to 12.8volts
The alternator outputs 13.5 to 14.9volts, so overrides battery's lower voltage
So alternator power is running all the electrics in the vehicle

There is no switch or other mechanical changes, just higher voltage in the system.
Follow the Battery Positive cable to the Starter Relay on the fender, might be the smaller of the two Positive cables, you will see a few other wires/cables connected to the same post on starter relay, disconnect battery then remove all the wires on that post and clean them.
This is the power distribution for the whole truck, battery and alternator both connect here, and all positive voltage flows out to engine fuse box and cab fuse box from that one post

Then you have the GROUND side, 12volts isn't 12volts unless there is 0 volts, i.e. hooking up 12volts to a light bulb doesn't get it to light up, it must also have 0 volts(ground) or no voltage flows thru it.
Battery Negative cable should run to the engine, may also have smaller wire to Rad support/inner fender, these are the engine bay grounds
The engine has alternator and starter motor which have/use the highest AMPS so need the largest Ground cable

Now there needs to be a Ground strap from the engine to the Cab firewall, also engine to frame.
Most body parts are painted prior to assembly of the vehicle, and body sits on rubber mounts as does the engine and transmission, so there is no reliable ground from bare metal contact between engine, frame and body.
The cab firewall ground is the main ground for ALL the electrics mounted in/on the cab part of the body, so a very important wire/strap
Make sure it is there, usually on the back of drivers side head, and make sure its connection to cab and engine is clean, bare metal contact
This ground strap is removed for engine work and is often left off by mistake.

When engine is running there will be a vibration, maybe that is enough to prevent a good ground for wipers

 

It was simply a slightly sticky ignition switch. It wasn't pulling back properly to the run position after starting. It was causing another issue of grinding when changing gears discussed in another post which had been suggested as being a bad throw out bearing, which is now gone too. I think the starter wasn't properly clear as the ignition switch wasn't moving quite to the right position.

 

Good work

Thanks for the update