installing factory power windows wiring?
installing factory power windows wiring?
The next project I am bulding doesn't have power but the doors I have do. is there any information on how to wire them or do I need to build a harness out of 2...lol
John
John
I got the door wiring, regulators and actuators because I want to use the stock switches. I still haven't done it yet though. All I know is that if your truck didn't come with it then more than likely you do not have the correct dash harness for it.
You are correct, the harnesses are different but I was wondering if you can just run the wires. I will be doing this soon, even if I have to make a harness. I am leaving in the morning for vacation so it will be a couple weeks before I get to it.
John
John
Haha x2! Is your name John now Christian?
But really wouldn't the power doors just need power for the windows? As far as locks I'm guessing the same thing. If you got an aftermarket alarm system I would imagine you could wire the factory door locks into that.
But really wouldn't the power doors just need power for the windows? As far as locks I'm guessing the same thing. If you got an aftermarket alarm system I would imagine you could wire the factory door locks into that.
My concern is getting the power to the windows without frying everything else.
Why would you fry anything else? Just add another fuse to the fuse block that can handle the amp draw of the window motors and I can't imagine why it wouldn't work. If you got a factory wiring schematic I would bet that it shows the draw of the window motor. Heck even look what fuse it's on in the manual and that'd give you a place to start.
Maybe I'm looking at this too basically.
Maybe I'm looking at this too basically.
It's a bit harder than adding a fuse.
It is possible but not as easy as just adding a fuse.
If you look into an unused cavity in the dash fuse panel, you will see that there is a terminal on one side only. The output terminal to the load is not factory installed unless it is needed.
Also, different 'zones' of the panel have different inputs: hot in RUN, hot in START/RUN, hot in ACC/RUN, hot at all times, etc. You would need to determine which open cavity will be suited to the circuit being added.
Groups of fuses in the dash panel are served by larger fuses in the Distribution Box under the hood. You cannot just add circuits to the dash box indiscriminately or you may reach a combined current that can melt a larger fuse in the Distribution Box.
It is not impossible to power additional circuits from the dash box. I have successfully added 2 low current circuits to my dash fuse panel by disassembling it and installing output terminals and fuses in the correct zone. The terminal pigtails were salvaged from a junkyard fuse panel.
For anything but a low amp circuit, you would probably be better off running a new wire from the source. It is possible to wire it directly from the cable clamp at the battery but, IMO, it is cleaner to come off the bolted positive cable at the front of the distribution box.
It is critical that any added circuit be adequately wired and properly fused near the source.
If you look into an unused cavity in the dash fuse panel, you will see that there is a terminal on one side only. The output terminal to the load is not factory installed unless it is needed.
Also, different 'zones' of the panel have different inputs: hot in RUN, hot in START/RUN, hot in ACC/RUN, hot at all times, etc. You would need to determine which open cavity will be suited to the circuit being added.
Groups of fuses in the dash panel are served by larger fuses in the Distribution Box under the hood. You cannot just add circuits to the dash box indiscriminately or you may reach a combined current that can melt a larger fuse in the Distribution Box.
It is not impossible to power additional circuits from the dash box. I have successfully added 2 low current circuits to my dash fuse panel by disassembling it and installing output terminals and fuses in the correct zone. The terminal pigtails were salvaged from a junkyard fuse panel.
For anything but a low amp circuit, you would probably be better off running a new wire from the source. It is possible to wire it directly from the cable clamp at the battery but, IMO, it is cleaner to come off the bolted positive cable at the front of the distribution box.
It is critical that any added circuit be adequately wired and properly fused near the source.
Yes I got everything done and working properly, its a big project. Basically you have to run wires from door to door, to the fuse box, to the relays, and the gem. The easy way would be to find the correct harness. I don't have time right now but I'll get something together and post up.
Yes I got everything done and working properly, its a big project. Basically you have to run wires from door to door, to the fuse box, to the relays, and the gem. The easy way would be to find the correct harness. I don't have time right now but I'll get something together and post up.
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