General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

K&N vs OEM Paper Airfilters

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Old Mar 15, 2009
  #151  
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Originally Posted by STL
Interesting I would like to meet this guy.

I have worked on several engines Duramax Diesel's with K&N filters or other type filters you oil, and have never came across one that was like he described.
Here is the site, his member name is blacksnapon:

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/index.php

I'm sure he would be glad to talk to you!
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Tee Rev
This last so called test, has a very serious flaw, & actually explains why a paper filter requires several times the area of gauze to flow an equal amount of air.

Your small area of paper has nowhere near the porosity as the same area of gauze. Of course the smoke won't pass through easily, or at all.

Try it again with 5.5 times the paper & show the results!
Sorry, you are dead wrong! the filter efficiency will stay the same, you will just get increased air flow capacity with the additional area. In the experiment the air flow was very low, just the convection off the heated resistor.

If your thinking was correct, the full size K&N would be passing marbles!!:D:D
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #153  
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IMO that so called test is out there. Waaaay out there. Or.. at the VERY LEAST mr stalker has not explained how it relates to what an engine actually sees in daily operation.

I think that he has a basic premiss.. and a hidden agenda. One he won't admit to, but everyone knows it. OEM is all that there should ever be.
What's interesting is that when he talks to an actual OEM engineer.. he denies their points because it doesn't fit his goal.


I would agree that a K&N filters less. But.. so what?

Mr stalker continually quotes *someone else*. Where is *his* experience in tearing down engines? Post up those pics Mr stalker. And while your at it.. lets see the amount of grit pre TB and POST TB on a engine that's used a K&N. Given your (false) premiss of a K&N letting in so much dirt.. would we not see the exact smame amount of grit in the zip tube as we'd see on an intake runner?

LOL.. go ahead post up some pics of that!

LOL... fact is he has an agenda. He wants to hide it by *NOT* showing actual data. And he quotes *other people* to try to make *his* hidden agenda seem plausible. And all for what???



Oh and BTW guys... My K&N conical is properly oiled and has about 47,000 miles on it now. The last time I checked the MAF & zip tube they were both squeeky clean. No oil and no grit. The throttle plate gets oily & carboned up on it's backside (which is normal for a car with an egr) Also, look at where the EGR is on a 4.0L. It's RIGHT BEHIND the TB.


OK so I keep asking Mr stalker for proof of his first hand experience. Not wanting to be a hypocrite.. below is proof of my findings. It shows that the EGR is a much larger source of harmful flakes of solids. (hard carbon)

These are pics from a 1995 Lincoln towncar w/4.6L V8. 207,000 miles on it. Nothing but standard paper air filters used it's whole life. It's had about 9 years in Tenn and the rest has been up here in Mich. Both owners are older men and drive "easy". The only repairs this engine has ever seen was new plugs, wires, and a bottom rad hose about 3 yrs ago.

which btw.. I put in a new set of bosch +2 along with some new wires.. an it runs much better. Plus his gas milage is now back where it used to be.
Gee... how could that possibly be?





















This last pic shows the real deal! This is a joint where the egr (inert gasses) flow into the intake. You can see that in 207,000 miles it litterally plugs up the passages.



 

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; Mar 15, 2009 at 05:46 AM.
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #154  
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From: Durham, NC
Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
IMO that so called test is out there. Waaaay out there. Or.. at the VERY LEAST mr stalker has not explained how it relates to what an engine actually sees in daily operation.

I think that he has a basic premiss.. and a hidden agenda. One he won't admit to, but everyone knows it. OEM is all that there should ever be.
What's interesting is that when he talks to an actual OEM engineer.. he denies their points because it doesn't fit his goal.


I would agree that a K&N filters less. But.. so what?

Mr stalker continually quotes *someone else*. Where is *his* experience in tearing down engines? Post up those pics Mr stalker. And while your at it.. lets see the amount of grit pre TB and POST TB on a engine that's used a K&N. Given your (false) premiss of a K&N letting in so much dirt.. would we not see the exact smame amount of grit in the zip tube as we'd see on an intake runner?

Rich, this is your post, not mine regarding K&N intakes:

You will *likely* increase the amount of grit entering the intake.


And, all the reports of contaminated MAF sensors, high Si in UOA, and "dusted" turbos when running K&Ns have nothing to do with EGR!!
 

Last edited by Takeda; Mar 15, 2009 at 06:15 AM.
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #155  
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I can not believe that an air filter thread is gone on to 7 pages, with no one actually proving there "theory".

I have 179,xxx miles on my 98 Ranger, and it's had the same K&N for over
120,000 of those miles, never had a MAF, IAC, or any other related problems from it. Hell, it's been at least a year since I even looked at it!!

Does it flow better than stock? I don't have a clue.
Does it filter better than stock? Again, I have no clue.

What I do know is- that this is a site geared toward modifications to a truck.
If you want to keep your totally stock- Then by all means do so, but don't go spewing propaganda against a reputable company for no other reason than you just don't like them.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #156  
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I recently bought a k&n filter for a honda civic. The instructions in the box said that the filter was not preoiled and needed to be. It was DRY out of the box.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #157  
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Originally Posted by FireRanger
Ok. So this latest in a series of pointless tests that prove nothing useful has shown us what? That smoke from a resistor can go through it? Great. Who cares. This is even less useful than spreading it all out in the driveway with a tape measure.

"He is trying to save the thread but its not working."
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #158  
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Originally Posted by Takeda
Here is the site, his member name is blacksnapon:

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/index.php

I'm sure he would be glad to talk to you!
Good he is from Missouri
 

Last edited by Mykhael; Mar 15, 2009 at 09:09 AM.
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #159  
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From: locust grove georgia
i like my k&n intake, only paid 200 for it with a throttle body spacer. the girl i bought the k&n from had it on her explorer and had it dynoed and it showed either 6 or 8 hp increase.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #160  
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Originally Posted by Takeda
Sorry, you are dead wrong! the filter efficiency will stay the same, you will just get increased air flow capacity with the additional area. In the experiment the air flow was very low, just the convection off the heated resistor.

If your thinking was correct, the full size K&N would be passing marbles!!:D:D
Just for giggles, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt .... or as I like to call it ...more rope!

Let me see if I understand the point of this experiment.

You believe that this test shows how the paper media filters the smoke particulate?
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #161  
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I would like to see the same test with some sort of dust in the tube.

I think that would be more accurate to what the filter is designed for.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #162  
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Originally Posted by Takeda
You guys are in what's called denial!!
I'm not in denial. Maybe if you weren't such an a hole people would trust you. You come on here and you try to force your invalid theories on everyone just because you don't like a certain product. You have no real proof except on what is on the internet and you try to prove yourself with bogus tests. You stalk Rich all day. I have seen it. As soon as Rich posts you are sure to post in the same thread right after him about how he is wrong and you are right. Then you go post some stupid pictures to try to make it seem that you don't start the drama when you do. Most importantly you say OEM is the best yet you have an aftermarket exhaust and speakers in you truck. What you need to do is get a job at Walmart as the greeter or buy a motor home and travel to take up your time. Poor wife of yours. "Bob can you get off the pc and spend time with me?" "No! I have to prove to some kids on the internet that I think I know what I'm talking about." You posted your credentials once and I saw nothing pertaining to cars. It was all computer stuff. I think you should stick to what you know best.

Also I was right about the Carrera GT and a 911 Carrera not being the same car. You never acknowledged that. Shows how you can't stand to be wrong. I'm sure you will follow up with something off topic like I'm the guy that said disconnect the battery when the engine is running. At least I said I was wrong.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #163  
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What would be even better,

Mount the "smoking resistors" a few inches above the filter media & have the fans draw the smoke through the media.

That way we can see how easily air is pulled through the media as well as it's ability to filter particulate.

Heck! Throw some fine dust into the mix & we have a real test!
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Tee Rev
What would be even better,
Mount the "smoking resistors" a few inches above the filter media & have the fans draw the smoke through the media.
That way we can see how easily air is pulled through the media as well as it's ability to filter particulate.
Heck! Throw some fine dust into the mix & we have a real test!
That would be a good test. Since stuff it suppose to be getting sucked in anyway


I just wanna see dust or something in there also and see what is caught vs. what is passed through
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #165  
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I have an idea for test. Set both filter medias on fire with an air flow equal to that of an engine at 2,500rpm. Then we can see which will be better if you have to drive through burning field.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #166  
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These are pics from a 1995 Lincoln towncar w/4.6L V8. 207,000 miles on it. Nothing but standard paper air filters used it's whole life. It's had about 9 years in Tenn and the rest has been up here in Mich. Both owners are older men and drive "easy". The only repairs this engine has ever seen was new plugs, wires, and a bottom rad hose about 3 yrs ago.

which btw.. I put in a new set of bosch +2 along with some new wires.. an it runs much better. Plus his gas milage is now back where it used to be.
Gee... how could that possibly be?
Well considering that there has only been old men driving this car, you could argue that this carbon build up is directly related to that. I am sure the car has never seen over 3000 rpm. This would allow more than normal carbon build up. I know deisels that are only driven in the city have issues with this. The motor does not reach a high enough temp to burn off the carbon.

I can't see this pertaining at all as a deterrent for using a paper filter, or a K&N, in fact, not to be a dick, but what was the point of posting this?
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #167  
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jeez...... who really f*n cares about all this b*tching and moaning. Run whatever the F*K you want and STFU!!!!!
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #168  
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Originally Posted by chainfire
I can't see this pertaining at all as a deterrent for using a paper filter, or a K&N, in fact, not to be a dick, but what was the point of posting this?
A legit question deserves a legit answer.

Carbon buildup from easy drivers happens on the intake valves and *mostly* within the combustion chamber.

He uses the cheapest 87 octane from speedway, and when I pulled the intake off you can easily see all the intake valves. They all had very little to no build up on them. Actually.. I was supprised at how clean they were!

OH and I'm not saying it happens.. wink wink. But he has a 17yr old who uses the car from time to time. So 3000rpms max.. hum.

The carbon build up I show in those pics are a result solely of the EGR system.
(egr is open when the PCM commands at anything above idle and it'll shut off just before WOT) So whether your mr old guy driving 45mph on the hwy.. or mr 17yr old driving *easily* to the movies.. the egr is open and recirculating inert gasses + combustion deposites.

Regards, Rich
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #169  
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Originally Posted by PUNKROCKPILOT
jeez...... who really f*n cares about all this b*tching and moaning. Run whatever the F*K you want and STFU!!!!!
For mr stalker it's a matter of pride. For me it's a matter of keeping science pure... and having a little fun.

There is a saying:

Argueing with an engineer is like wrestling in the mud with a pig. After a few hours you come to realize that he likes it.

Rich
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #170  
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From: okc,ok
If people don't want to oil the K&N or use a filter that needs to be oiled,you can get a AEM DRY FLOW filter.I've heard that these a very good filters.Just my two cents worth.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #171  
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Originally Posted by Takeda
This test says nothing about flow. The air flow is very low, just the convection from the resistor heating.
You're right, your test shows nothing at all.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #172  
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Originally Posted by CBFranger
You're right, your test shows nothing at all.
Agreed
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #173  
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Will someone just ban Takeda from all subforums with the exception of Photography?
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #174  
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Originally Posted by SparkYZ
Will someone just ban Takeda from all subforums with the exception of Photography?
Well now what fun would that be? How else could we learn the filtration properties of a device when put up against the massive air currents created by a burning resistor.
 
Old Mar 15, 2009
  #175  
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Originally Posted by FireRanger
Well now what fun would that be? How else could we learn the filtration properties of a device when put up against the massive air currents created by a burning resistor.

Haha this is true!

I guess we need him around for complete off topic, non sequitir tests!



On a serious note, his OEM **** ways are dirtying up so many threads it's pathetic.
 



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