Hi, 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 308,000 km
1. the column shifter got sloppy. I had hold the shifter in Park once to start. I got a new bushing put in at the shifter.... all well, super tight.
2. A week+ later, Backing up hill out of parking space and noise like I drove into something and a sharp stop (not 100% that I didn't slam on the breaks). then everything was quiet... thought maybe something rattled in the back, but was really way too loud for that. I drove fwd and everything seemed fine, everything quiet and working. Didn't use reverse that day any more and hadn't really thought about it anymore. Went to leave same parking spot next day, backing up hill and there was no reverse, then remembered about the noise. Didn't seem like it had been grinding. All fwd gears seem to be fine. Any thoughts? Total rebuild? thanks Neddy

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, most likely the transmission will need to come out
Reverse band(brake) most likely broke so can't be used, the noise you heard

Put trans in 1st manually, then accelerate to say 20mph and then take your foot off the gas pedal, if you just coast, no engine braking, then band is broke
Could be a sprag(one-way clutch) as well
But in either case trans needs to come out

1997 Ranger had 3 engines options
2.3l used 4R44E trans
3.0l 4R44E
4.0l 4R55E

4R44E or 4R55E are model numbers NOT what they fit
So if you want to get a used/replacement transmission then it needs to come from same engine size and same drive train, i.e. 2WD or 4x4 not interchangeable

Rangers used these Models from 1995 thru 2000, in 2001 the model changed to 5R and new sensors were added

The 4.0l V6 did use 5R55E from 1998 to 2000 and these years can be used in 1995 to 1997 4.0l

2.3l and 2.5l used the same bolt pattern, 1995 thru 2000 so trans from a 1999 2.5l can be used on a 1997 2.3l with no issues

 

Thanks a million, for all the info. It will make it a lot easier than navigating those options without a clue :)
Gratefully, Neddy

 

You may want to change the fluid, but mostly just to look in the pan for metal bits/pieces, to see if it was a mechanical failure, i.e. in the rotating part of the transmission

 

I appreciate these ideas.... I'm going to start going down the list (easiest to hardest) this weekend. Neddy

 

Hi, there is some info that might have been connected to reverse going out. Ron if you are there, maybe you would know if this could be. About a week before reverse went out with a bang, the shifter on the column was suddenly sloppy and the indicator was between the gears (on the right side of the gear markings) and got worse. Once I had to reach over and hold the shifter up, to keep it in Park to start it. So a mobile mechanic came replaced a bushing and it was all good. Then within a week or so, the reverse went out with a bang. Would this indicate anything specific to anyone with experience?
I just called a shop to start figuring out the best way to go I didn't mention the shifter to the service guy, but he was giving me a basic price of remove and install and then with an overhaul, then he said that it might not need an overhaul if it was a cable or something. That is why I am asking. I am guessing that the shifter had something going on with linkage?????
Thanks, Neddy

 

No, the 2 are unrelated

The shifter on the column uses a cable to the transmissions shifter arm, on the outside of the transmission is the DTR sensor that has the switch so you can activate the starter in Park or Neutral only, also does reverse lights
It has no connection to transmission, its just an electrical switch that is moved by the column shifter cable

Inside the transmission on the shift rod is a cam with detents(slots), you can feel these when shifting into any "gear", column shifter moves and locks into the next "slot"(detent), then apply more pressure and it moves to the next "slot", this inside the transmission
Thats how gears are selected, by the slot you select on the cam inside the transmission

If you were to disconnect the cable at transmission end the column shifter could be move up and down freely you would feel no detents/slots
The Gear display on the dash is just a string and spring calibrated to the column shifter arm, its adjustable to be calibrated to the detents when cable is hooked up

When the bushing in the column failed then cable was not moving the DTR sensor far enough to connect the switch inside DTR for passing the START voltage to starter relay