Good morning,
I just had to replace the torque converter and flexplate, which means I had to pull out the transmission and starter. Along the way, I also replaced my oil / oil filter, my sparkplugs and rear main seal. My trucks been sitting long enough for the battery to die even while disconnected so I also have to jump it just to even see what's going on. When I go to start it, the check oil light turns on. My oil is fresh / full, the filter is on, so I don't quite know what it wants me to check. I get no crank, no spark, nothing. Linked is my starter connections, once my jumppack charges back up I'll add the video of trying to start it. I'd appreciate some help figuring out what the heck is going on.

Starter: https://streamable.com/hrim53

 

There is a 1 wire sensor on drivers side of the oil pan, that's the oil level sensor, it may be unplugged so "Check Oil" light comes on, but engine would still start and run

First check for any wires that may have got pinched between engine and bell housing, it happens, just run your hand/fingers along the top and side mating surfaces

No crank is the first thing of course, there is no spark and no fuel without cranking, lol

1996 won't have PATS and I assume no ALARM system either?

You should hear a couple of relays in engine fuse box "click" with key on, that means battery power is going to ignition switch and then back out to relays in engine fuse box
Fuel pump should also be heard running but only for 2 seconds, but it does this EACH TIME key is turned from off to on, same as relays will "click"

1996 starter motor needs TWO wires to work, both are connected to the smaller tube on the top of starter motor
The larger cable from battery positive
Then the smaller wire which is connected to the smaller "S" post on the starter

Seen here: https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-35fn...277534.jpg?c=2

In the picture the larger post at the top is for battery positive cable
The smaller wire is on the "S" post, this wire only has 12volts with key turned to START, it is what activates the starter motor

 

Check oil light is gone, dunno why it showed up in the first place because that cable was plugged in the side of the pan. Linked is the video of me trying to start the truck, I can hear the relays click and the fuel pump go for a second when key is ON then everything turns off when I go for starting. For the starter connections, when you say the smaller wire needs to be connected to the S post, are you referring to the left post or the bottom post of the three? I had it connected to the left post because that's the one that looked the right size. I also have two large cables coming from above, one is the exact size of the top post and the other fits on the bolts that hold the starter to the transmission. Pictures attached

Edit: I also checked to make sure nothing was pinched in-between the trans and engine
Edit 2: I'm 90% sure my battery is completely screwed. My battery charger says it's fine, and it's able to provide enough power to power the stereo/headunit. Since everything dies when attempting to start, do you think I just might not have enough juice to crank?

Video of attempting to start: https://streamable.com/5ncx98
Picture of smaller cable and first larger cable: https://postimg.cc/5H84n6LF
Picture of 2nd larger cable: https://postimg.cc/475JRq8f

 

The larger battery negative cable cable often connected to a starter motor bell housing bolt, main ground for whole vehicle

Battery positive goes to the larger post on starter "solenoid", the smaller tube, upper larger post with no other wires on it

Yes, the smaller post on the solenoid is the "S" post, there will actually be an "S" in the plastic next to it to ID it, in case there are two smaller posts

Automatic must be in Park or Neutral for starter motor to activate
On a 1996 there will be a DTR(digital transmission range) switch on the drivers side of trans on shift rod/arm, it does Reverse lights and also Park/Neutral, did that get plugged back in?

 

If by DTR switch you mean the black thing in the DTR picture, I don't have that. What I have is the black connector on the left and the black/blue connector behind/above the red cable in transmission picture. I don't know what the red cable is for. I had to reset the gear using the lever, but I did it according to what Haynes said. All the way to the left and 3 clicks right for overdrive. In the transfer case picture, I also have two connectors on my transfer case, the black clip-in one and the black one on the top right that has to be secured with a bolt. Everything was secure and didn't wiggle when I tried to wiggle them.

DTR picture: Photobucket | 0029.jpg
Transmission picture: https://postimg.cc/cr44cxFF
Transfer case picture: https://postimg.cc/PNdttfnd

 

OK so you don't have a 1996 B4000 or 1996 Ranger

Thats an A4LD automatic and if its a Mazda then its a 1994, first year Ford built the B4000 and last year for the A4LD

Above the shift rod is the Park Neutral switch, its round and screws into the transmissions case, looks like its plugged in
Called NSS(neutral safety switch) and looks like this: https://transmissioncenter.net/wp-co...01/A56410A.jpg
Did you remove it when repairing the transmission?
Do the Reverse lights work, when its in reverse, engine doesn't have to be on, just key on?
If reverse lights work then that switch should work for starting, if not it may need to be screwed in more or backed out, can't tell from picture
Its a plunger type switch, so a cam on the shift rod inside transmission pushes it up and lets it down for its two functions, Starting and Reverse lights

1995 and up B-series or Ranger automatics: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...river_side.JPG
4R55E, change to 5R55E in 1998 4.0ls
A4LDs were 1985 thru 1994

 

Well, I guess the paperwork is wrong so I gotta get that fixed, I checked vin decoder and you're right 1994. All the parts I've bought have been for a 4r55e and a 96 ranger, I've replaced the following: rear main seal, flexplate, torque converter, spark plugs, transmission oil filter. All those should be fine right? I have to get a new battery tomorrow morning, but I didn't take the NSS out of the transmission, I just unplugged the cable.

 

Should be fine
The A4LD was the base model OD transmission in 1985
4R and 5R used different valve bodies and added sensors, like the DTR and had a 16 wire plug in instead of 3 wires

 

Good morning,
I took a quick trip to Napa and got a new battery; I have reverse lights in reverse. Attached is a video of trying to start from cab and a video of what it sounds like in engine bay. I hear the fuel pump and the clicks of the relays. I double checked the starter connections, I have large ground on starter bolt, large positive on top post of starter, and smaller wire on the small S post on the left. The starter worked before I took it off, and it went on the shelf until I had to put it in. Is there any fuses or things I can check with a multimeter/ohmmeter? I can prolly ask around town to borrow one but I'm not very familiar with how to use one.

Video of trying to start from cab: https://streamable.com/4iwkh9
Video of trying to start from engine: https://streamable.com/je9owz

Edit: Got a multimeter from a neighbor and watched some youtube videos on how to use it. I have 12.38v with the leads connected to large ground on starter bolt and large positive on top post of starter

 

Alright, I've got someone to turn the key while I was watching the voltage on the small starter wire that you said only gets voltage when the key is turned to start. Nothing, so I went up to the starter relay, I un-plugged the cable to the starter to see if I got voltage on the post. Nothing, and at this point some cables in the cab shorted and melted. The only thing I removed was the starter cable that wasn't getting power anyways so whatever shorted was gonna short anyways. Pictures of the cable and the area around it. So now I gotta replace those cables and the starter relay, so I'm definitely not using this thing for college that starts tomorrow. I'd appreciate some help in figuring out what exactly shorted, so I know what to replace.

Picture of starter relay: https://postimg.cc/68gLBYD2
Picture of melted cables: https://postimg.cc/N501T3t2
Wider picture of melted cables: https://postimg.cc/2VXnx0jc