Hi everyone,

I recently bought a Honda Fit, and since then, my Ranger has been sitting idle. In the last two instances I used it, I had to jump-start it, so I decided to replace the battery and started testing for parasitic draw.

I've found a 0.21-0.25 amp draw when the doors are latched, the keys are out, and the car has been sitting for 30 minutes.

I pulled the dreaded fuse 26, and my draw dropped to the expected 0.07 amp. After replacing the fuse and pulling the BSR, I got a resistance of 0.86 ohm, and the relay seems to function as expected when 12V power is applied.

Now, I'm starting to think my GEM (Generic Electronic Module) might be failing. When I did start the truck, I noticed some speedometer drift and general cluster weirdness.

Before I pull the dash, is there a testing method for the GEM that I can perform with tools I have on hand?

Also, do I need to find a GEM with the same options as my model? And where's a reputable place to buy these? Are we down to options like eBay and pick-and-pull at this point?

Thanks for any insights or advice!

 

Welcome to the forum

2002 Ranger, should always include that

Yes, you have a issue, lol
Expected draw after 30min(GEM is asleep), is 0.04Amps, 40mA without keyless entry, or 0.07amps, 70mA with keyless entry

What is the draw with Fuse 26 in cab fuse box removed?
And you don't have to wait 30min
This does remove power from Battery Saver relay and GEM, but also instrument cluster and SRS module(seat belts), so not definitive to GEM or BSR

But it would tell you if its not GEM or BSR, if amp draw didn't drop under 0.07amps


Computer and radio are the 0.04amp draw
Keyless entry is about 0.03amp, has to be "awake" 24/7

 

Thanks sorry I didn't include my vehicle information how silly of me.

it definitely drops down the the .2 for the keyless system.
Meaning I have a short some where else is the system correct?
Maybe I'll put a kill switch on it for when I'm not going to drive for a few weeks.
The draw it has should be ok to let it sit for like couple hundred hours but not for weeks on end.

 

0.07amps or 70mA
0.2amps is still too high

0.2amps would be 20amps every 100hours or approx. 4 days
So about 33amps a week
Car battery's are rated in CCR(cold cranking amps) not AH(amp hours) but some do have that on the label or you can look it up by battery model
But they usually only have 50-75AH because they are not designed for continuous use, just start and recharge quickly

And you need about 50% reserve AH for reliable start, so after a week it would be a roll of the dice if it starts
And its also bad for this type of battery to drain it down
You can get Deep Cycle Batteries that are made to be drained down to almost 0 volts and then recharged, used in RV and Boats, but not for starting the engine in either, lol

So if its a new battery you really just want to unhook negative battery cable when it will sit
Or find the drain

 

Man I'm really bad on this post my draw was .19 amps when the fuse 26 is pulled.
battery is brand new.
I'll probably just install a Norco genius2d or a kill switch. I could be chasing this draw till I'm grey

 

0.19 or 0.2 amps is the same, and too high
You can start to pull fuses,(after fuse 26 is out) it see when amp draw drops under 0.10amps, target is 0.07amps