Replaced starter w/ new and when hooking up batt it starts cranking
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From: santee
Replaced starter w/ new and when hooking up batt it starts cranking
So my old starter was going bad (just the spinning/whinding noise)..
got a NEW one unbolted old one (w/ batt NOT connected)..
Unbolted both wires ( Pos and neg)
Put in NEW Starter wires connected and the 3 bolts..
hooked up battery and new starter starts cranking automatically and key isnt even in ignition.... strangest thing ever....
Is there something im missing ? I thought replacing a starter was pretty straight forward.... If anyone knows etc Id be most gratefull !
thanks in advance.
got a NEW one unbolted old one (w/ batt NOT connected)..
Unbolted both wires ( Pos and neg)
Put in NEW Starter wires connected and the 3 bolts..
hooked up battery and new starter starts cranking automatically and key isnt even in ignition.... strangest thing ever....
Is there something im missing ? I thought replacing a starter was pretty straight forward.... If anyone knows etc Id be most gratefull !
thanks in advance.
Welcome to the forum
You need to include year and engine of your Ranger with questions
2003 3.0l
Yes, replacing starter is usually straight forward
Your new starter may have a bad starter relay/solenoid, that's the smaller tube that's on the top of the actual motor
But lets confirm wiring first
Rear of starter motor with relay/solenoid: https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...1600x1200.jpeg
Also drawing here: https://www.carparts.com/blog/wp-con...4x614.jpg.webp
There are 2 larger posts
One is wired to starter motor below, just has that one wire, wire is attached and tight out of the box(M post)
Other larger post is for your battery positive wire(B post)
The smaller post is your activation wire, it gets 12volts to activate starter relay/solenoid when key is turned to START(S post)
When activated the relay/solenoid connects the 2 larger post together giving starter motor 12volts to start spinning, it also moves the starter gear out to engage the flywheel/flexplate
If battery positive wire was put on the same post as starter motor wire OR is touching the other larger post OR the "S" post, then................starter would come on when battery was hook up again
If your wiring is OK then return new starter, it has a bad relay
Yes, one of the 3 starter motor hold down bolts usually has the larger Negative battery cable hook up, to ground the starter and alternator and other engine electrics, this wouldn't cause the issue described
You need to include year and engine of your Ranger with questions
2003 3.0l
Yes, replacing starter is usually straight forward
Your new starter may have a bad starter relay/solenoid, that's the smaller tube that's on the top of the actual motor
But lets confirm wiring first
Rear of starter motor with relay/solenoid: https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...1600x1200.jpeg
Also drawing here: https://www.carparts.com/blog/wp-con...4x614.jpg.webp
There are 2 larger posts
One is wired to starter motor below, just has that one wire, wire is attached and tight out of the box(M post)
Other larger post is for your battery positive wire(B post)
The smaller post is your activation wire, it gets 12volts to activate starter relay/solenoid when key is turned to START(S post)
When activated the relay/solenoid connects the 2 larger post together giving starter motor 12volts to start spinning, it also moves the starter gear out to engage the flywheel/flexplate
If battery positive wire was put on the same post as starter motor wire OR is touching the other larger post OR the "S" post, then................starter would come on when battery was hook up again
If your wiring is OK then return new starter, it has a bad relay
Yes, one of the 3 starter motor hold down bolts usually has the larger Negative battery cable hook up, to ground the starter and alternator and other engine electrics, this wouldn't cause the issue described
Last edited by RonD; Dec 3, 2023 at 09:50 PM.
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