Hi, I got my new compressor in from Rock Auto.

The first thing they say is the warranty is only good if you flush system, change this and that extra from a certified shop.

This system had been in service not too long ago is still charged and compressor is locked up.

I'd like to NOT Change things I don't need to or spend time and money I don't need to. Aside from just swapping the compressor, what would you do? This a $500 truck. I'm putting $150 into it, vs scrapping it. It's not going to a shop!

 

If there is an Orieleys or similar parts store that rents tools and can rent you a compressor and a/c recovery setup then you can recover and recharge the a/c at home. Otherwise, take it to a shop where you know somebody and ask if they can recover the refrigerant for you. It shouldn't cost more than $100 to have it recovered and refilled once you finish the job. I got it done for a 12 pack at an acquaintances shop.
Unless the system is brand new, it's a good idea to change the orifice tube at a bare minimum. Sometimes it's easier to just get the whole accumulator assembly with the orifice tube installed already, the accumulator with orifice tube for the 4.0 sohc on rock auto is only $21.
I would also replace any seal on any coupler you open in the system. They are cheap and don't always seal a second time.
I remember there being 4 or 5 different sizes/colors of o-rings and a specific seal for the compressor. They have all the o-ring sizes and part #'s on rock auto.
The benefit of having the a/c charge drained at a shop is they usually have a translucent recovery tank. Sometimes they can tell from the color of the refrigerant if there are corrosion issues or impurities contaminating your system.

 

When an AC Compressor "locks up" that means it would have sent small metal fillings out to the condenser, in front of radiator
And compressor doesn't just lockup one day, it will start to fail prior to that and so metal bits can end up all thru the system, even coming back to compressor making wear out faster
If you do not flush the system then those metal filling will be sent thru the system and into the NEW Compressor causing it to fail after a bit of time, simple as that

It would be like draining your engine oil and finding metal fillings then pouring that oil back into the engine, not a good idea

Yes, you ALWAYS need to replace the receiver/drier and orifice tube on ANY AC system after its been exposed to air
Moisture in the air kills AC systems, AC works by compressing "freon" which heats it up, then letting it expand which releases that compressed energy and cools the "freon", moisture inside the system will turn to steam and then freeze to ICE which will clog the system
So there is a Drier that removes the moisture, and it can take care of a little moisture when NEW and system has been refilled, but only that one time
Any time system is emptied and connections are separated a new drier must be installed

 

Can I just pull the compressor, turn the hose on and get the metal bits out, clean up, seal up and recharge?

 

You would need to let it sit and opened, for a few days, very hard to get the water out of the system by evaporation, lol, if you have an air compressor you can get most of the water out that way and also let it sit foe a few days to dry out
Flushing fluid is almost like an "ether" liquid it evaporates very fast and has no H2O in it

Water/moisture KILLS an AC system

 

Thank you Ron. How about simply blowing air through? I there a video on how to do this cheap and somewhat environmentally friendly?

 

Not really a good way or easy way

You can pull off all the AC hoses and then flush the two remaining components, the condenser in front of rad and the Evaporator, in the Heater fan box
The receiver/drier would be removed because its going to be replaced

You can then flush the lines and the components with a solvent, and then blow them out with air
If you can pull the condenser out even better, and pull all the hose out so you can flush "down hill" to get all the debris out

Video on that here but you don't need the solvent/air can, you just use less solvent when using it
https://www.google.com/search?client...60PEP4pWL6Ac62

You should get a general idea of how much metal debris is in the system after you flush one hose or one component

 

[QUOTE=RonD;2176486] The receiver/drier would be removed because its going to be replaced...

What? What is this you speak of?

 

Talked about it earlier, looks like this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon...._AC_SY355_.jpg

Its next to the heater fan box in engine bay, must be changed any time an AC system is exposed to outside air, not optional

Also call accumulator receiver/drier

 

Seeing that you don't want to do it correctly, I'd return the compressor and scrap the truck.

 

I get these sometimes in residential AC. I tell the homeowner the indoor coil has a leak after dumping the UV dye in.
"ok well can we replace that?"
"yes but you have a 20 year old R-22 system and your junker condenser outside probably won't make it another 2 years, and since an R-22 coil is incompatible with 410a (replacement condenser), you may as well junk the whole system and redo it now to save you money."
customer: "......well lets just replace the coil and we will get there when we get there"



Inevitably we put a new evaporator in and 2 years later the compressor blows and the nearly new R-22 evaporator ends up getting scrapped along with the rest of it. Told ya!

 

I would think driving it 150,000 miles with no AC, would be wiser than scrapping it.

But what do I know?

It's not like my other ride is a Porsche. Oh wait...

Thanks for the tips on the AC. Giving it a go today!