Replacing the lock or programming a new ignition key?
Replacing the lock or programming a new ignition key?
First, when programming a new key, you are NOT programming the key, you are telling the PATS to recognize the chip that is already in the key so you are actually programming the PATS.
.Here's an updated version of the key programming procedure:
There is no need to remove the plastic cowling around the steering column. To remove the lock cylinder/tumbler, just insert a working key and turn it to the “ON” / “RUN” position and then press an Allan wrench, any size big enough to press the release pin in the bottom of the cylinder/tumbler (a hole near the upper screw hole that holds the cowling on the steering column), and press in on it while pulling out on the key housing. This will extract the old cylinder/tumbler. When you put in the new lock you will have to have a properly cut, but not neccessarily chipped key in it that is turned to the “RUN” position so that it matches the switch and releases the lock pin that holds the lock in the column.
The programming dongle that comes with the new lock set from Doorman allows programming a new key with ONLY ONE working key solving the problem of only one working key. It comes with instructions that I wont repeat here. The Doorman OBD2 dongle is designed to work with a range of vehicles, primarily from Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury to allow key programming with just ONE working key. It is apparently reusable and can become a tool in your toolbox.
Some compatible models for the OBD2 dongle include:
.Here's an updated version of the key programming procedure:
- Enter the vehicle using one of the working keys.
- Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (do not start the engine).
- Press the brake pedal all the way down.
- Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
- Remove the working key from the ignition switch.
- Insert the second working key into the ignition switch.
- Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
- Press the brake pedal all the way down again.
- Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
- Remove the second working key from the ignition switch.
- Insert the new key into the ignition switch.
- Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
- Wait for 5 seconds.
- Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
- Test the new key by starting the engine.
HAVE ONLY ONE KEY? SEE BELOW.
There is no need to remove the plastic cowling around the steering column. To remove the lock cylinder/tumbler, just insert a working key and turn it to the “ON” / “RUN” position and then press an Allan wrench, any size big enough to press the release pin in the bottom of the cylinder/tumbler (a hole near the upper screw hole that holds the cowling on the steering column), and press in on it while pulling out on the key housing. This will extract the old cylinder/tumbler. When you put in the new lock you will have to have a properly cut, but not neccessarily chipped key in it that is turned to the “RUN” position so that it matches the switch and releases the lock pin that holds the lock in the column.
The programming dongle that comes with the new lock set from Doorman allows programming a new key with ONLY ONE working key solving the problem of only one working key. It comes with instructions that I wont repeat here. The Doorman OBD2 dongle is designed to work with a range of vehicles, primarily from Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury to allow key programming with just ONE working key. It is apparently reusable and can become a tool in your toolbox.
Some compatible models for the OBD2 dongle include:
- Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 (2006-2014)
- Ford Ranger (2006-2011)
- Ford Explorer (2006-2010)
- Ford Mustang (2005-2014)
- Lincoln Town Car (2006-2011)
- Mercury Mountaineer (2006-2010)
Last edited by JimIsbell; Feb 28, 2025 at 11:03 PM.
Well, it is finished. used the Doorman Dongle and followed the instructions to the "T" and I ended up with a new lock cylinder and two chipped keys that are matched to the PATS and all is working like new. $107 for new lock, the dongle and two chipped keys. Only took ONE original key to program. Its a futsy procedure but it works if followed and no mistakes. Doorman even provides an 800 number if you need help. I didnt need help.
Last edited by JimIsbell; Feb 26, 2025 at 06:59 PM.
An update on the key/lock replacement:
Doorman says you can throw away the un chipped key because you dont need it any more. DONT . You can use it if you loose the new keys and you need to start the truck. Put the unchipped key in the lock and hold one of the old (from the lock you just replaced...they are still programmed into the PATS but wont be cut to match the new lock) next to the kay and start the engine. Also, with that unchipped key and one of the old keys and the Dongle that you saved (you did save it, right?) you can start the engine, or make new keys if you just buy some chipped keys and have them cut to the same set as the unchipped key. In other words, SAVE EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE OLD LOCK. Also you will need the old keys to lock/unlock the doors because they will still be cut to the "old" cut
Doorman says you can throw away the un chipped key because you dont need it any more. DONT . You can use it if you loose the new keys and you need to start the truck. Put the unchipped key in the lock and hold one of the old (from the lock you just replaced...they are still programmed into the PATS but wont be cut to match the new lock) next to the kay and start the engine. Also, with that unchipped key and one of the old keys and the Dongle that you saved (you did save it, right?) you can start the engine, or make new keys if you just buy some chipped keys and have them cut to the same set as the unchipped key. In other words, SAVE EVERYTHING INCLUDING THE OLD LOCK. Also you will need the old keys to lock/unlock the doors because they will still be cut to the "old" cut
Last edited by JimIsbell; Feb 27, 2025 at 04:11 PM.
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