In my '99 Ranger, I've been having ABS codes. For a while, I had no idea what they were. Now with forscan and a usb to obdii cable, I can read the codes.

Currently I'm fighting code C1752. Forscan tells me this code is a short to ground in the VSS circuit. This shows up under 'gem' and not ABS. the actual ABS module throws no codes.

Surely I'm not the only one battling this problem. Are there any common spots for the VSS to ground out that I can check? I've already replaced the abs/speed sensor, as well as cleaned any and all connectors I could see.

EDIT: I will note, I have the overhead console installed, and the vss wire unconnected.

 

Well the 2000 Rangers had issues with a connector under drivers seat, the C309 connector, it passes wires thru cab's floor plate, like VSS and anti-lock circuiits.

Google: ford ranger c309

If you have a late model 1999...............

I would at least have a look under the truck to see if than connector is there.

 

Under the truck I know of two connectors and a third under the carpet all in the driver's seat area.


All connectors were opened and cleaned, although there did not appear to be any sign of corrosion or damage.

 

Thats not the C309 so you don't have that issue.

Fuel filter looks pretty old or they use alot of road salt in your area, lol.


The VSS has has 2 path ways depending on if you have rear ABS or 4 wheel ABS

With 4WABS the VSS connects to 4WABS module only and then feeds that signal out to PCM, cruise control and speedo.

RABS setup shares VSS with RABS module and GEM, wires are spliced.
GEM then feeds PCM, Cruise and speedo

The Grey/black stripe wire, in diagram, feeds PCM pin 58, thats its only connection after leaving this page

EDIT: found this link for the data link connector for RABS only, 4WABS won't have this: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/229tp...nderstand.html

 

Does your speedometer work? Does the ABS light turn off after a restart and before moving the vehicle?

 

@ronD: I'll give those areas a look. And, lol at the filter. It was replaced soon after the photo was taken. Was probably the original.

@Rev: My speedometer works continuously with no issues whatsoever. Upon startup, the ABS light comes on along with other bulbs during the normal lamp test, but turns back off. The ABS indicator then comes back on after traveling at 10-20 mph for a few seconds and remains on for the duration of the trip, until the key is turned off. ABS of course isn't functional.

EDIT: to add, I have four wheel ABS / 4wabs.

 

If your speedometer is functioning correctly I doubt the VSS signal line is shorted to ground. Check the following fuses:

Central Junction Block (dash)

1. Fuse # 9 (7.5 amp) should be hot at all times.

2. Fuse # 14 (10 amp) should be hot in run only

Battery Junction Block (under hood)

1. Fuse # 3 (50 amp) Hot at all times

2. Fuse # 7 (30 amp) Hot at all times

If you need the location of these fuses click this link 1999 owners manual starting on page 135

 

Thanks man. I'll give those a try here in a few minutes.

EDIT: Okay, my findings. Fuse 7 under the hood was completely dead. Nothing. Took the fuse out and tested directly, nothing; key on or off. Same goes for fuse 9 within the cab. The other two fuses were fine. So what does this mean for me?

 

Next step is to determine whether or not there is power to these fuse blocks. With the fuses removed, back probe the socket with a test light or volt meter and see if there is power to one of the terminals in each fuse socket. If there's power, then you need to check the ABS module connector and wiring harness back into the engine harness looking for signs of burnt or chafed wiring. If none are found, try replacing these fuses and see if they blow again.

Fuse 7 powers the brake switch input to the ABS module.
Fuse 9 is the ABS CPU module power feed.

 

The fuses were okay. I removed them and probed their sockets during the test. Dead as a door nail. 0.00 volts on the meter.

 

1999 Ranger 3.0l shows fuse #7 in engine box hooked directly to the battery, 30amp
Fuse #3 50amp as well
So issue could be battery cable connection to that fuse panel

 

Just got back from the garage. Decided to hook the com side of my meter to a dedicated grounding point and probed the fuse sockets for power.

In the mass distribution box, the contact depicted here has a steady 12 volts.

On the other contact, however, I get 2.67 volts.





Similarly, on this contact, I also get 12 volts steadily.


On the opposite contact, however, dead. Zip. Nada. Nien.

 

Did you inspect the ABS module connector and wiring back through the engine harness on drivers side? If so, and no damage was noted continue with below.

With fuse 9 removed, disconnect one side of the battery. Disconnect the ABS module connector. Set your voltmeter to ohms and connect the negative probe to common ground and the red probe to the dead side of fuse 9. Note reading. Next push and hold the brake pedal and note reading.

Next, with the negative probe still connected to common ground. Connect the red probe to the Red/Lt Green wire in the ABS module connector. Note the reading. Next push the brake pedal and note the reading.

Next, connect the negative probe to the dead side of fuse 9 and the red probe to the Red/Lt Green wire in the ABS module connector. Note the reading. Next push the brake pedal and note the reading.

Next with fuse 7 removed and the ABS module connector disconnected, connect the negative probe to fuse 7 side that you had the 2.67 v reading. Connect the red probe to the Red wire at the ABS module connector and note reading. Then move red probe to common ground and note reading.

 

I have not done that yet, but I will here in a few minutes.

Oh, btw; where's this abs module located? Is that the module under the hood with the metal tubes coming in/out or a black box somewhere in the dash?

 

Its the thing with all the metal tubing on the drivers side inner fender. Two lines run between the brake master cylinder.

 

Ah, I see. Thanks. Was thinking that was it, but wanted to be sure.

 

I decided to run a test. I ran a test with forscan on the 4wabs module with the fuse in. No surprise, no codes returned. Pulled the fuse then ran the test again. (Fuse 7). This time it did throw a code, something to do with battery voltage. Thought back to how I tested them, and realized I derped it out. Used the right test, but for the wrong application.

I'll pull fuse 9 and see if I can get any codes from whatever to confirm that to be the same.

EDIT: Unfortunately nothing throws a code for fuse 9.

 

C309 connector


You're a life saver