So, I just replaced the main front brake line from the master cylinder to the front wheel junction, and bled the line from the passenger side front wheel. I couldn't get the other bleed valve open (rust) and the pedal feels a little splashy like there's still air in the line. It doesn't seem like a big deal cause the brakes work just fine the way they are. The front wheels can still lock up when I brake hard. Is it bad to leave air in the lines indefinitely, or is this just an annoyance?

 

When bleeding brakes , ALWAYS start from the bleeder farthest from the master cylinder.
Find a way to get that bleeder open.

 

The only way to get a good pedal is to bleed both bleeders, and probably the back too.

 

Mine are like that to. Ever since I swapped my axle. The liens on the axle were completely dry and we only bleed the back drums. Defiantly air in the lines. I'm god awful at bleeding anything so I'm gonna have a shop do the whole system. Doing all 4 brakes is the only real way to make sure they are right.

 

oh, well I guess that leaves me with a problem. does that mean I need a whole new caliper to just bleed that one line?

 

mostly likely if you cant get the valve to open.

 

Heat, and lots of it for those bleeders. Just did my friends front lines on his 93 and had to torch off the bleeders for 3 of the 4 screws. Heat and patience got them off, just replaced with new ones.
Also, if air got in the master cylinder you will need to bench bleed it. Tried to avoid that when I did my friends front lines, but had to do it in the end.

 

Oh, so I need to heat the bleeder. I guess I probably have to remove the brake hose pipe in front of it, then? probably need to replace gaskets/crush washers when that line comes off? also, you had mentioned something called bench bleeding. I'm not sure what that is. can you explain it?

 

Most new master cylinders come with two plastic fittings and two short hoses that screw into the ports of the housing. The loose end of the hoses are placed into the reservoir and the master cylinder is then filled with fluid. The piston in the cylinder is then depressed slowly and completely several times to remove all the air. The hoses recirculate the fluid without allowing air to be sucked back into the piston. This can be done on the vehicle or on a bench.

 

If you are carefull and keep them clean and undamaged , most times you can reuse the washers. Put them back on the banjo bolt the exact way they come off and wrap them in a paper towel.

 

If you have to replace the caliper they are only16 bux at my local autozone. Ok thats for my 87 its 38 after core for you.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-j1zohZ8knro

 

huh! I was hearing stories about over a hundred dollars. is the 38 dollar one a used caliper?

 

It's not used and also not new it's rebuilt same thing as new if you ask me and comes with a lifetime warranty. So if this ever happens again take the caliper off take it to the store and get a new one free.

 

You probably do not need to take the line off, but you may to get at the bleeder...not sure what exactly you are referring to, as the line is not near the bleeder IIRC.
We do some work down here in the "Man Cave" on weekends, you are more than welcome if you need some stuff done. I'm a little ove an hour south of Burlington. Probably doing my plow truck trans next weekend, POS auto in an Explorer...

 

that's alright. thanks for the offer though. I think the brakes are alright the way they are. the pedal does not go to the floor and the brakes lock up when I hit them hard. I think I can get the bleeder open with a vice grip if I really end up needing to, and I'll destroy it getting it out then pop in a new one.

and yes, there is a pipe in front of the bleed valve. it's in one piece with the brake hose to that wheel.