2000 Ranger. Today the drivers side power window quit going up/down. It's just not moving. I try the switch and hear a weird tick/click from under the dash somewhere? The passenger side switch works fine, so I don't think it's that switch assembly. Everything else on that panel is working fine.

I replaced the regulator/motor when I got the truck, as it didn't work then. It's been fine since I got that replaced.

Searching has suggested a relay, the switch (even though half of it works?) or the regulator/motor. Anyone have a similar problem and can tell me what they did? And, as a real rookie, I'm trying to use a multimeter to test voltage, but can't get a reading even on stuff I KNOW works.

 

Set meter to DC Volts, then test battery terminals, should see 12.3 to 12.8 volts, so now you know how to use a meter on cars/trucks

As for the power window
You should hear a relay click for drivers side window, its the "one touch up/down relay

Remove door panel leave the switch plugged in
Find the 2 wire Plug for the motor on that side
Unplug it, and pull the end that goes to the switch out so you can test it
Put meter's probes into the connector, one probe on each wire doesn't matter which one

Turn key ON
Try the switch, you should see +12.x volts, or -12.x volts, so + or -, thats how window motor works, i.e. +12volts and window rolls down, -12v and window rolls up

If you don't see +12v AND -12v then there is a problem with wiring
If you do see +12v and -12v then motor is bad or........................................regulato r is stuck, power windows can get stuck at the top, wedged so they won't roll down
Loosen regulator and plug motor back in, see if it moves now

 

Thanks for that info! Not sure where this falls in line, but I was able to get the window back up by wiring it to a drill battery (I didn't even connect it to a switch- I just connected to the battery and the window went up on it's own).

Anyway, that makes me think it's more of a problem with that switch, or the wires going to the window motor. But would love to know what y'all think.

 

Drivers side switch gets used the most so I would start there, test if motor wires are getting +12v or -12v when you press up/down on the switch, replace switch if not
Passenger side working on this switch just means this master switch has 12v and ground, not that the toggle switch for drivers side works

 

Well, tested a new switch and still no luck.

 

There is the "one touch down relay" only used for drivers door, but window should roll up

Its in Relay box 1, which is above gas pedal, it has a cover over it and faces toward drivers side kick panel

I don't have a diagram for it, and there are several relays inside

This says its for 1999 but not sure: https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...relays_one.gif

 

That's the thing- window doesn't roll up or down. So I don't think it's the relay, because like you said if it was it would at least still roll up. It died halfway down, and I only got it to go up by connecting to a drill battery.

 

Well you could re-wire it in the door to take the one-touch out of the circuit

Cut and Connect the Tan/light blue stripe wire from the switch, to the Red wire on the motors connector, cut red wire as well, so you are not feeding 12v or ground backwards to GEM and one-touch

That would get window working again and then you could troubleshoot later, I would use twist on connectors if possible vs crimp-on in case you want to restore one-touch, or for testing

In diagram 2 it shows Connector C200M(male) and F(female) , not sure where that is but if its in the door you can just unplug and jumper the tan and red wires there, no cutting needed

 

You are a true hero.
I want to make sure I'm understanding correctly, as I certainly don't want to make anything worse.

Pic included to make sure I'm cutting and connecting the right things. Yellow would be the 'new' connection. What to do with the other wire coming off the window motor? There's a black next to the red, feeding into the motor. I imagine it's OK left as is?
Also, if this doesn't work, what do I learn about what the problem might be?

 

Yes, thats it, you are just taking the one touch out of the system

Tan wire goes OUT to one touch, Red wire comes IN from one touch

Cut and connect them together by-pass one touch

If it works then problem is in one touch

If it doesn't work then switch is bad, even new switch



Power windows are a less complicated system than they look like
There are 2 wires to the motor
When one is +(12v) and the other -(ground) the motor turns clockwise(window up), when you reverse 12v and ground then motor turns counter clockwise(window down)

So when the button is in the middle, not pressed, BOTH wires are grounds(not really but easier to image)
When you press button on one end it disconnects the ground on that one wire and makes that wire 12v
Press it the other way and it reverses the other wire

 

Man.
After all that, I got my new regulator/motor in the mail last night. I figured because the drill battery worked, the motor is fine. For kicks, I hooked up the new motor and it worked. Guess it was the motor after all? The real kicker, though, is that I accidentally ordered the passenger side motor- not the drivers side. So I confirmed that it was the motor that shot, BUT ordered the damn wrong side.

What a ride.

 

Good work