2004 Ford Ranger XLT – 90,000 miles (Original Owner - very good condition)

When I drive the truck every day, there is no problem. Now with COVID and telework, I rarely go out. ‘Not driving’ is the norm. After ‘not driving’ for one or more days, when I turn the key, it will click, but not start. If I turn the key several times in succession, it will usually eventually start. After one day of not driving, very predictably, it will turn over and start on the third key twist. After two or more days, it takes more key twists.

Originally, I changed the #56 starter relay in the Power Distribution relay box under the hood. The first time I did this, it fixed it. Then the truck sat for several days. The AC/ blower quit working (Relay # 55 was good). Eventually all I got was clicking. After a tow to the mechanic, I was told I needed a new computer. After they installed a new computer ($$$) it appeared to be solved, until I let it sit for 2-3 days without starting it. After another tow and service, I’m being very diligent about at least starting it every day. The problem is not solved, but at least it starts when I need it to.

The battery is 2 years old and reads 12.6 volts. If it turns over, it starts every time. The battery has plenty of power. But, if the truck sits for more than a day, it will only click when I turn the key. So, I turn the key back and forth 1,2,3…n times. When it decides to do more than click and turn over, all is good. The longer it sits, the more likely I have a problem. If it sits for only 2 days, it will click 1-3 times before turning over and starting. If it sits for a week, I may have to have it towed into the garage. All the fuses are good. The starter relay has been changed twice, but I’m not convinced it needed to be. The AC relay has not been changed and now the AC blower works fine – It kind of fixed itself.?

Is there a hold up capacitor or watch battery somewhere in the circuit or computer? Maybe I have a loose wire somewhere, but the symptoms seem way too repeatable - not intermittent. Maybe a mechanical movement that stays ‘lubed up’ if used often? Maybe the problem is related to the anti-theft circuitry? The truck has never been broken into and I still use the original key. The second key and two button fobs have sat in a drawer (new) since I bought the truck in 2005.

Help? Where do I look next????

 

Is the theft light flashing whenever you have a no-start and it just clicks?

 

I do not remember anything unusual about the lights on the dash, but will have to pay attention the next time I let it sit a few days.

I've been driving it more routinely for the last 3-4 days and therefore have not had any problems. Right now, the theft light flashes 1 time / 2 seconds as it should as a deterrent. I'll plan to let it sit Sunday night until Tuesday. This will be long enough to require three key attempts before engaging to start.

More to follow Tuesday night. Thanks for the response.

 

The light that flashes with key off is the Theft Light
When you turn the key on Theft light should come on and then the PATS(passive anti-theft system) "reads" the RFID tag number in the handle of the key, if number matches a number in PATS memory then the computer will activate starter relay, fuel pump and fuel injectors, and Theft light will go off
If Theft light starts to flash rapidly then key's number didn't match OR couldn't be "read", and no starter motor, or fuel pump or injectors

If you leave key on, with Theft light flashing, after 45-60 second it will start to flash a 2 digit code number, a 1 flash followed by 1 to 6 flashes, so 11-16 code number
The code number will tell you why the key didn't pass the PATS test

Low battery voltage will cause PATS and starting issues in general
Test battery voltage after it has sat for over night or longer
12.8volts is a new battery
12.5v is a 3 year old battery
12.3v is a 5/6 year old battery and time to shop for battery sales

12.2v is a bad battery, replace ASAP

 

More information:
When the truck is running, the battery terminals read 14.29V.
Immediately after turning off, battery terminals read 13.0V.
After 24 hours, 12.71V
After 2-3 days of no starting, 12.68V

When I go to start (turn key), all of the dash lights come on and then turn off after starting (as they should),including the PATS "Theft" light.
When the period between starting is less than 2 days, it turns over and starts the first time I turn the key.
When the period between starting is greater than 2 days, it clicks and does not turn over the first time I turn the key (seems like a dead battery). The second, third or fourth time I turn the key, it usually will turn over and start. The longer between starts, the more key turns it takes. I'm working less from home now, so not as likely to let it sit for a week without starting it, but I fear that if I did, it wouldn't turn over.
Battery voltage, measured at the terminals is never less than 12.6V. Theft light comes on and off as it should.

I thought maybe the RFID in my 'primary' original key was going bad? Even with the 'second' original key (sat in a drawer for 16 years) I am having the same issues.

If the 2 year old battery is strong enough to turn over and always reads 12.6V or better, I'm finding it hard to believe the battery is the problem.?

 

It reads like battery is OK
And no on the RFID keys, if there was a problem with that you would get a Flashing theft light along with a No Start/No crank if PATS didn't read the key's number

But you may have a higher than normal drain with key off
Expected drain is .03-.07amps, .07(70milliamps) is if you have keyless entry as it needs to stay on all the time, to respond to Fobs
.03 - .04amps is for computer and radio/clock memory

You can disconnect battery cable and put an amp meter between battery and cable, see what it is now, should be about .7amp(700milliamps), because Body computer(SJB in 2004) is on, key off doors closed, if there is an engine bay light bulb unplug it
Then after 30-40min it should drop to .03-.07amp when SJB goes to sleep and turns off Battery Saver Relay
In 2004 Battery Saver relay is built in to the SJB so not a serviceable part, like it was in previous years