Hi, im looking for some of your guys ideas on how to get a nice swap going, on the engine and drive train. Ive been recommended several times a 302 or 351w, and one buddy said i should try a 440 big block or a mustang 5.0 swap. But a 440 would give me little play room and a 5.0 would be a LOT of power in a small truck like mine. So those two might be out of the options. Ive also heard of someone doing a, if im not mistaken, 3.8 thunderbird swap? I was also looking and found some ford explorer V8 4.0 kits as well as their V6 drivetrain kits so that may be an option. I also want to keep in manual so i dont have to remove bench seet for bucket seats (that was with the 5.0 swap) I just want to hear some more opinions on how i can make this into a classic truck with a bite but not a bite thats gunna turn around and get me.

 

Welcome to the forum

Rangers engine bay is not very wide

Ford's 302/5.0l is 19" wide, this is why it is a popular choice, and there are MANY performance add-ons available

The 351 is 21" wide but those extra 2" are hard to come by, when adding exhaust system and keeping the heater

If staying with fuel injection then you need Explorer intake because it sits low on the engine, other models can sit too high so you have to lift the body.

No kit is needed, read here on what is involved: Ford Ranger V-8 Engine Swap

Other V8 engines have been used, but why re-invent the wheel when a Ford 302 can be made into a real power house if you want to spend the money on performance modifications, and you know it already fits.

In 1997 Ford dropped the 302/5.0l and started using the 4.2l V6 engines and modular V8s in the F-series pickups.
The 1997 and up 4.2l V6 uses the same transmission bolt pattern as the 302/5.0l, so manual trans from a 1997 and up F-series can be used on the 302/5.0l and the shifter is in the same place as Rangers.
This is the M5OD-R2 transmission
Rangers used the M5OD-R1 a smaller version

 

thank you for taking the time to reply. I apreciate your tips. I will be using them for future reference and ill be sure to check back and give an update on how the project goes

 

Good read here on the 302 add-ons: Make 503HP With A $350 Junkyard 302 - Hot Rod Network

And a Carburetor distributor 302 version means NO COMPUTER or ALL THE WIRING needed for that, so very simple setup, with manual trans

350HP for not much cost, 500HP if you want Nitrous

 

that seems pretty interesting. Ive been googling things just to get more familiar with my truck so i know what to sort of expect in college. I also do have a question. Ive tried googling but theres like 20+ different answers. Alright so when i stop at a redlight/stop sign and go to give it gas, it doesnt want to engage until the speedos above 10, which often causes tires to squeel. The engine also wants to turn off while in park and reversing so i have to kind of feather the gas a little bit

 

All automatics run on Pressure, there are no "gears" like a manual trans, there is just a planetary gear set that changes ratios and that is all done by applying and removing pressure from Bands and Clutches.

The Pressure comes from the Main Pump, Front pump, back side of bellhousing is the front case for this pump.
Torque convert is directly connected to this pump to drive it
So engine RPM is directly related to the Pressure this pump can produce.

Reverse requires the highest pressure, 170+ PSI, if there is leaking gaskets or seals then there is less pressure, this is why a delay or no Reverse is usually the first sign of a pressure issue inside an automatic.

How is your Reverse?

Torque Converter allows you to stop a vehicle while you are "in gear".
Normally if you are "in gear" and take your foot off the brake vehicle should start to move.
Normal warm idle for an engine with an automatic is 800-850RPM, any lower and torque converter may not be spinning fast engine to transfer torque.
When you raise RPMs is suddenly adds full torque.
So you could have a failing torque converter, or idle RPMs are too low
And of course check fluid level, that's how Pressure and torque converters transfer power


Engine stalling in Park could be a few things.
Fuel injected engines use a Control Vacuum leak to set idle RPMs, on Fords it is called the IAC Valve, idle air control valve.
Engine computer runs this valve, on Cold start computer will open it and set high idle, 1,100+ RPM, then slowly close it as engine/coolant warms up.

The Computer for an automatic vehicle will have a warm engine "target RPM" programmed at the factory, usually about 750 RPM
And there will be a switch on the transmission that will tell computer when trans is "in gear", computer will then Raise RPMs to 800-850 while "in gear" using the IAC Valve.

IAC Valve can be cleaned, look here: How to: IAC valve cleaning thread (w/pics) | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

Too low of a warm engine idle can certainly cause delay in engagement of transmission, reduce pump pressure AND torque convert stall speed


Your 1989 Ranger will have the A4LD transmission

 

okay, im gunna run an obd1 self test and see what i can get to pop up. I really appreciate the help and you taught me few things i didnt know which is very helpful on what im trying to accomplish with this truck. I got it for 1500 which everyone said it was a steal, so i expected some things to be maintananced. I plan on keeping this thread going and Ill keep you posted on how things are going with it since most of it wouldnt have been done without your help and tips