Good to be here with a nice little pickup I found a month ago. 126k 4.0L Auto Regular cab long bed. I'm always big into the forum life so I look forward to the learning and sharing!

 

Looks nice & clean.
Be sure to study up on the querks\weaknesses of the 4.0L SOHC: Timing Tensioners, ThermoStat Housing, Radiator, TransferCase, Transmission...
Then remediate those issues before they bite you, so to put another 200k on the odometer.
D

 

Thanks for the direction on what to look into. That was actually what I was hoping for! I’m a hobby-mechanic and would likely tackle any issue as it presents itself.

First step is figuring out why the passenger door won’t unlock with the key.....

 

Same issue with my 2001 ExST started 6 or 8 years ago.
Gotten habit once or twice a year, squirting pentrating oil into the keyhole+latch,
let that soak for a few minutes, then follow with a squirt of lithium grease; seems to keep locks in good order.

Considering Wisconsin, you may want to crawl around underneath, looking for road salt\snow\ice damage,
then give everything a coat of Gray\Black primer, followed with a good lube of every bolt\nut\joint.
Give exposed electrical underneath a little extra protection with wrap\tape\ties.
Above seems to have prevented significant rust & electrical gremlins in my case.

Lots of help\expertise on this & other forums; just take advise with a "grain of salt" & double confirm everything.
Good luck to you & "new" truck.
D

 

Welcome to the forum

You can get your 2003 owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/

And 2003 Ranger brochure here: https://www.therangerstation.com/art...ger-brochures/

Th 4.0l SOHC in a regular cab was a rarer option, don't see many of them, the extended cab with 4.0l was more common

 

Thanks guys! I just book marked the owner's manual. After hours of general YouTube and research I managed to "improve" one thing already; IAC got a thorough cleaning with some electronics grade cleaner. It seems to have improved the rough idle I was having at stoplights. I'm going to check the fuel filter next and will likely replace. If it doesn't fully cure the roughness after that, I'll replace the IAC completely.

Luckily, the prior owner was a fairly wealthy retired guy who liked tinkering on this truck. It's in fantastic mechanical shape (so far). New: Tires off a 19' Wrangler, new OEM wheels, back-up camera, new battery, new alternator, new tank straps and rear suspension mounts(?) new Curt hitch, newer bumpers, touch up paint, seat covers, radiator, spare tire and tire holder, hard 4-section tonneau, bedliner and new headlights. Foglights seem to be wired but not there.....

 

I popped a CEL a few days ago with the return of the rough idle. It was a P1450 that I cleared and it came back. Truck runs great when it's being driven then horrible at stoplights or while idling in park, Neutral or drive. Any thoughts or common things to look into?

 

What does code P1450 mean...........................??

Oh I need to look it up................

P1450 Unable to Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum << this is like most codes, not in english, its computerese, it "usually" means too much vacuum in the gas tank

FYI, P1xxx = Ford specific code
P0xxx are universal codes

Fuel tank vacuum means its an EVAP system code
These are a pain to clear once they are set
Could be blocked or failed vent valve or purge valve
It's more likely to be a broken/blocked vacuum hose because computer also has specific codes for both vent and purge valves that are NOT set

EVAP systems are NOT easy to diagnose, so be patient

 

Luckily, the Ranger is my “backup truck” so l can sort it out without too much issue. I see it could be a plethora of possible things but will start with the evap purge valve under the battery and work towards the tank. I’m patient so I hope to find it. The truck seems to work just fine for a few minutes until the vacuum builds up so in a way, it’s a good sign that the issue is where We think it is. Hope I’m right!