So I am new this will eventually be handed off to my mother so I gave it a nice name for her.
I found her a 2003 ranger extended cab with 90k it’s 4x2 3.0l valkyrie auto. The original owner passed away his friends had it in his garage for the last 10 years finally got around to trying to Drive it and then realized leaving a tank of gas for 10 years was a bad idea clogged up the whole fuel system. That’s when I bought it. Now with a new fuel filter clean fuel lines and injectors. Clean maf. Compression on all six cylinders is between 150 and 155 fuel pressure when key turned on position is at 50 when running is it 60psi. From what I’ve read here so far the shares paired coil pack I do get a light spark but that’s only on cylinder six so that was a little odd that the paired cylinder had a crisper spark could be a weaker wire however the owner left me with a list of things that he had attempted which was changing plugs wires air filter battery and fuel shut off switch which I can only guess he meant the inertia switch. I’ve read a little bit through here that I suggest a hot stall could be caused by either the coolant temp sensor or the coolant temp sender. All in all after the fuel system was cleaned and verified plugs were good verified gap to .044 the plugs that are in it are Motorcraft double platinum‘s I’m not sure what you guys suggest but when you check in with the local auto parts store crap Raleys that is what they specify OE so I did not change them. Any assistance going forward would be great I do have an OBD diagnostic tool on order it be handy to have one on hand anyway for my other vehicles. Any help getting this beautiful little truck up and running and ready for my mom would be much appreciated thank you very much. Did the cel test it turns off the second I turn the key to crank. Cylinder three has slight lifter tick under initial start up guessing that’s because it hasn’t been run for 10 years. Idol did start to get rough before thermostat opened. I’m learning towards Idle control valve or throttle position sensor as a general but like I said it seems these trucks have some added expectation to coolant temperature sensors and sensors.

 

Welcome to the forum

Try to break up your posts into paragraphs, otherwise its hard to read

2003 Ranger 3.0l with automatic
What I read is
Compression 150-155psi, none are lower
Fuel pressure 60psi engine running

Cleaned fuel system
Cleaned spark plugs, gapped at 0.044, newer wires
Cleaned MAF

CEL works, but No Codes??

A little unclear on running issues
Idle stumbles prior to warm up, but otherwise it drives great????

Yes, clean the IAC(idle air control) valve, this part can ONLY be replaced with motorcraft or hitachi brand IAC Valve
TPS(throttle position sensor) really only effects acceleration, it gives the computer a "heads up" to add more fuel FAST, or to shut off the injectors when coasting(foot off the gas pedal)

Yes, ECT sensor is used by computer to set richer mix when engine is cold, and computer adjusts the mix AND IDLE RPMs based on the temp this sensor shows
ECT sensor is 5volt like the other "sensors"
Dash board temp gauge uses a 12volt Sender, so a different temp device on the engine, this one has a red/white wire

The O2 sensors will need to be changed, they are the ONLY sensors that wear out, 100k miles OR 12 years and they are done
O2s use a chemical to detect oxygen, and that chemical is used up after 100k miles or 12 years

If RPMs or speed is limited then exhaust could be clogged up, broke up Cats, that can happen after sitting for long periods, you can test for that with a Vacuum Gauge

 

Thank you for the heads up I will work in that.

cel doesn’t have any codes.

I have not been able to drive it yet as it stalls as soon as it get hot.

After fuel system cleaning it started fast and ran smoothly till it started getting warm( about 2 minutes ) then started to stumble a bit I held the idle at 2000rmp it was nice and smooth there as soon as it got to full temp temperature gauge dropped slightly which I would expect from the first time the thermostat opens soon as this happened the vehicle stalled would not restart

From what you wrote I can assume the two wire coolant sensor is for the gauge only??
that is working.

Throttle response and rpm range has not been affected in a no load state as I have not driven it yet.

so today I will clean the IAC and at 5bucks I will just swap the ECT and see if I can come up factory O2 sensors.

 

ECT Sensor is for the Computer ONLY
12v Temp sender is for the Gauge Only

Unplug the 2 Upstream O2 sensors, that will prevent computer from using them after engine warms up
This should also set 4 codes, 2 O2 heater codes and 2 O2 sensor codes


Engine computers have 2 "states" they operate in, open loop and closed loop
This is because O2 sensors can't work until they are heated to above 650degF

Open loop is used when engine and O2 sensors are cold, the computer uses factory air/fuel mix "tables" in memory based on RPMs

When coolant gets warm enough and O2 sensors start to show signals the computer switches to closed loop
In Closed loop the computer bases air/fuel mix solely on O2 sensor feedback, and if O2 sensors are old................well air/fuel mix will be wrong

If you unplug the O2 sensors then computer will stay in Open Loop after it warms up, this will tell you if its an O2 sensor issue
You just need to unplug the 2 Upstream O2s, left side and right side, in the engine bay, round 4 wire connectors