I got the bed on and just need everything hooked up. Fuel line, bed bolts and lights.

I will eventually use this bed. Nearly rust free.

Only major dent is here and I will need help with it.

 

I ordered some parts from Rockauto. Belts, Brake and Clutch pedal pads. I also have the front shocks coming in Thursday. Once I get the belts and shocks on, I am done with the mechanics part for now. The Steering and Suspension seems to be fine for now. I won’t really know until I drive it on a regular basis.

I am starting to save up for interior paint, headliner material, carpet and some dash vinyl to get on the interior and then onto body work. Here are the old pads.

New pads installed. More worn the they look.
77 for pads, shocks, and belts.
1464+77= 1541

 

I posted earlier about my door handle being broken. I spent several days trying to get it fixed I ended up using a soldering iron and zip tie to act as a plastic welder. I then reinforced it with Gorilla Glue. I also used a vice and C clamp to hold everything in place until glue set up. It will work for now until I find a better one.

Here it is installed. I will be getting new door panel tabs. I am nearly finished with mechanicals for now. Just Steering and Suspension Systems and they seem to be ok for the time being.

I got my shocks in. Still need to clean the rust off of the shock mounts, install the V belts and then install the shocks. I am ordering material as funds allow to start on interior. Carpet, Headliner, and Dash Repair materials.

 

Great to see the Sport Trac put back together. Hadn’t seen that red Ranger bed…looks like it’s in really good shape! Nice score on that one. And thanks for the paint info on your frame. Really enjoying your thread!

 

Hello 86. Things are not going quite as fast as I had hoped but I am steadily making progress. Your welcome for the info. Hope some of it helps. This week I am ordering dash repair materials but I do have some more things slowly accomplished b

 

I am changing my belts. The fan on mine is all cracked up. Luckily I have a few spares laying around so this was a no cost fix.

One of the spares I had

Finally got the belts changed While I was doing belts I detailed the areas I had access to. Shroud front of motor and core support area.
1541+74=1615 I have some vynil material for the das, glue and a few other things coming in the mail.
At this point I think I am done for now with the motor area. I am getting to finish the front shock area and then this week will focus more on the interior.

 

I got this cab and will be picking it up next weekend. Bought it for the cab corners and side panels that need for my truck and does have a few interior parts for the 87.
1615+120+30=1765 Cab and Clutch fan tool

 

Got my shocks on. Shocks were black. I did not spray paint them.

After more cleaning and used Back to Black on inner fender.
https://www.therangerstation.com/Mag..._to_M5OD.shtml 4.0 clutch upgrade

 

I bought some vinyl for my dash it is a little darker then I wanted so will do a practice piece to see if interior paint would cover it up. I am basically done with the mechanics for now. I still have to do the Steering and Suspension left but truck seems to be ok in those areas. I will eventually do those systems. Now I want to focus on interior.

May not look like it but about $70 for a Positive battery cable, some kitty hair bondo and some marine vinyl from Joanns Fabric I am still waiting on Contact glue and will need to order some more interior paint as I plan on doing all the panels at once. Hoping to order a carpet kit soon.
1765+70=1835

 

I do still have a current issue with my truck starting. At Idle I have about 33 psi for vacuum and 40 with the FPR disconnected. I have to bump the starter 2-3 times to get it to start up quick. Sometimes it fires up right away. I have another High Pressure Fuel Pump I am going to install and see if that fixes the issue. If not I am going to bypass the Fuel Reservoir and go with one High Pressure Fuel Pump in the tank. Seems to be a common fix for this issue. Other then the High Pressure Pump possibly being at fault, it does come on when I turn on the Ignition but could still be not putting out enough pressure.

On Facebook I found a guy that sells the things needed to bypass the fuel canister. His Facebook is Addicted Creationz. It may be a while before I try the bypass.

I also have been doing a lot more frame cleaning and getting the rust off of the frame and getting the frame painted. Other things in the works as soon as I get to the boneyard is to get 89 and up door panels and see if they would work in my truck. Also getting new door clips for my current door panels.

 

Trying my dash repair again. The tan vinyl is not long enough for the width.

Here I cut the cracks to a deeper width for fiberglass kitty hair to get a bite.

Waiting for it to set up. I can already feel the itching getting ready to start. I have worked with fiberglass in the past.

 

I pulled the passenger hub to get it cleaned up and painted. I see previous owners did a bang up job so will be getting this cleaned up and repaired correctly.

So far the only place I have found for seals is eBay since today is Thanks giving. I am going to see about getting hubs powder coated.
​​​​​

 

Another set back on the dash. I went to get vinyl on and this piece is too short.

Pulled driver side hub off. Looks like I will be going thru the front end sooner the later. A lot if rust colored grease.

I found some Dorman seals that may work. Orielly does not carry the seal. If i have to I can order seals off of eBay.

Got my hubs painted. I need a Dial for driver side. I can get one at boneyard next time I go.

 

To de activate your door chime. Lift these two tabs.

Remove this bar by lifting.

Lift back of board and remove at a 45 degree angle.

Board out.

Remove this disc by prying on tabs on back side of cover.

Parts in order. Will need to remove dash cover to access assembly. Located behind cubby hole on passenger side. Could be other circuits involved so is better to jyst disable chime.

 

One step closer looking like a new truck. Budget says no more spending this week so troubleshooting and cleaning of parts.Troubleshooting:

Problem; The gauge does not work (the needle does not move).

Turn the key to the on position for this operation. If you can get to your sending unit wiring harness without dropping your tank(s), go ahead and pull it. If not, then drop the tank(s) and pull the harness. Get a piece of wire (jumper wire) to connect to the positive of the harness, and the negative of the sender housing. This should make the gauge jump to full.

If the gauge’s needle moves:

It means that the wiring is fine and it is your most likely your sending unit. You’ll need to remove the sending unit from the tank for inspection and testing.

Troubleshooting Your Fuel Gauge - The Ranger Station

 

Not the most exciting thing but to keep moving forward, I finally got my Positive Cable replaced. Having a hard time finding the factory battery hold down.

Got front drive shaft de rusted. A lot of work getting it cleaned and painted. I was wanting to grease the U Joints but it does not have any zerks. Spent more time cleaning underneath and on the frame. In about two weeks I plan on ordering carpet, interior paint and head liner material. I will make that one big project and then start getting primer, sand paper and bondo.

Best way to check the wiring and the gauge is to unplug the plug at the sending unit, and with the switch set to the correct fuel tank, take a short piece of wire and jump the blue/yellow wire to the black wire on the front tank, or the yellow/lightblue wire to the black wire on the rear tank. The fuel gauge should swing full scale empty or full. Then take the jumper off, the fuel gauge should swing full scale the opposite way. If it passes this test the wiring and the fuel gauge in the dash is working, and there is something wrong with the sending unit.

I looked and with dual tanks you also have a switching valve on the frame. Besides switching the fluid lines for the fuel, this valve also switches the sending unit wiring. So there is a possibility this valve could have a fault also.

According to what I was looking at, you have a low pressure electric pump in each tank, and then a single high pressure pump on the frame rail after the switching valve.

 

I got my 91 fuel pump in. I am waiting for a fuel filter that is long and narrow to basically replace the frame mounted high pressure fuel pump. My fuel pressure is reading correctly with 32 and 40 psi depending on if FPR vacuum line is connected. I have to bump the key a couple of times as if I am priming the fuel pressure. I’m hoping the one high pressure fuel pump will fix this issue. It is an experiment. Nothing that I can not un do.

Ford Ranger Remote Mounted TFI Ignition Module (therangerstation.com)

tfi_worksheet.jpg (1182×1645) (therangerstation.com)

McCully Racing Motors- We have exactly what your over-heated TFI Module Needs!

TB from a '87 2.9L with a opening of 58mm verses the 53 mm for the '88.
An M5OD-R1(M5R1) from a 1990-1997 4.0l Ranger or Mazda B4000 would be a better choice, matching 4WD or 2WD which ever you have

There is a "Mode/Routine" in ALL fuel injected computers call "Clear Flooded Engine"
Its simple to use it
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down all the way
Try to start engine
If should not start/fire at all, fuel injectors are shut off
Throttle Cable Mod - The Ranger Station
Explorer Overhead Console Upgrade - The Ranger Station
Compass / Temperature Mirror Install - The Ranger Station
Interior Electronics & Upholstery - The Ranger Station
F7 Ford Ranger Rear Axles (1983-2011) - The Ranger Station
Adding Cruise Control To Your Ford Ranger - The Ranger Station

 

This build gas not stopped. With Christmas and other things in life, things have slowed some but still gathering parts and information. A shame to use this cab as a patch panels. It was involved in a front end collision. Front has been cut off. I have welder and can weld Just not getting core support lined back up. Still in decision mode.

Only dent in rear cab corner

Absolutely rust free and so clean.

No rust in floor at all.

 

I bought thus from the boneyard out of a 90midel. Going to experiment with installing it.
Ford Ranger Door Interchange Guide - The Ranger Station

 

Another future experiment. I had starting issues. Wound up being a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator. It was a brand from a well known online parts site. Long Fuel Filter is to replace the High Pressure Fuel Pump. Mustang or a Focus fuel filter. Don’t remember.

Fuel pump for a Newer Cougar or Mustang. Just slightly more pressure than stock. New cars only have one in tank pump. No high pressure pump. One less failure point.

I got these to replace the Reservoir for the High Pressure Fuel Pump. Reservoir is no longer available and getting old and brittle. Possibly one less weak point.

 

Got my seat belts and passenger seat in. I found a website that is supposed to have Ford Interior Paint it is a Mustang site. lmr.com. I will look into it.
Notes for myself​​​​​​

https://lmr.com/products/79-93-Musta...aint-Spray-Dye

Rear Axle Codes / Determine Gear Ratio - Ford Ranger Forum

how to read door jam sticker... - Ford Ranger Forum

Coverlay 12-112-DBL Coverlay Manufacturing Dash Covers | Summit Racing

Cutpile Flooring for your 1983-1995 Ford Ranger Reg Cab 2 & 4WD Cutpile | Car & Truck Interior Carpet (ocautocarpets.com)

Inner & Outer Window Belt Felt Sweep Kit without vent windows 83-88 Ford Ranger | eBay

The last year or so I have had problems with the electrical system in my BII, no big surprise, but frustrating. On cold starts the truck would stumble and hesitate and you could make it go if you floored it and stayed on it, but ran rough, especially we you got over 35-40 mph. After much checking of the basics many times, I found all the problems were ground related. The main battery cable runs down towards the block, but stops at the frame where it was clamped to the frame and then continued on to the bolt on the side of the block. Where the bare ground wire was clamped to the frame, the wire was corroded and about half it's normal size. I replaced the clamp on the frame with a bolt and ran two new ground wires, one directly from the battery to the block and then one from the block to the new bolt on the frame. Two of the problems I was having went away.

The next bad ground was the ground from the computer to the body behind the kick panel on the passenger side. The ground appeared to be good with no corrosion, but with the age of the truck the ground path back to the battery had deteriorated. I ran a temporary jumper from the ground bolt by the computer to the battery and took the truck for a drive and miraculously the rest of the driving problems vanished......except for one. I ran a new 16ga wire back to ground point on the front frame by the battery and started working on the last problem.

If you turned on the fan control to medium or high you could see the lights dim and the truck would stumble under load. I took the dash apart and found there is a large ground wire that leaves the fan controller and disappears towards the fuse block, but could not find where it landed but I'm betting it terminated on the firewall sheet metal. I cut the black wire on the fan control and replaced it with a #10ga wire from the controller to the front frame ground point and replaced the spade connectors with a ground lug and re-terminated all the grounds. This solved the fan problem.

Every ground wire I inspected has had some type of corrosion problem, so I am in the process of replacing all of them, one at a time. The Bronco II hasn't run this good since it was new! If you are having any computer related problems that you can't explain......get grounded and see if it solves the problem!
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...es/biggrin.gif
[img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
Good luck!

Ford Ranger & Bronco II Electrical Diagrams at The Ranger Station

When the 2.9 Liter engine had been around for awhile, I began noticing a recurring problem, particularly on Rangers and Bronco II units with automatic transmissions. There is an orange ground wire that leads from Powertrain Control Module (PCM) pin 49 to the back of the passenger side cylinder head. It should be clamped between the dipstick tube bracket and the head. The circuit inside the PCM depends very heavily on this ground in order to properly read the Oxygen Sensor Signal, and some technicians would forget to reconnect that ground when reinstalling the transmission. Black smoke problems and odd O2 sensor voltages were common with ground loose or disconnected.
Ford Ranger Door Interchange Guide - The Ranger Station

Ford Ranger Remote Mounted TFI Ignition Module (therangerstation.com)

tfi_worksheet.jpg (1182×1645) (therangerstation.com)

McCully Racing Motors- We have exactly what your over-heated TFI Module Needs!

TB from a '87 2.9L with a opening of 58mm verses the 53 mm for the '88.
An M5OD-R1(M5R1) from a 1990-1997 4.0l Ranger or Mazda B4000 would be a better choice, matching 4WD or 2WD which ever you have

There is a "Mode/Routine" in ALL fuel injected computers call "Clear Flooded Engine"
Its simple to use it
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and hold it down all the way
Try to start engine
If should not start/fire at all, fuel injectors are shut off
Throttle Cable Mod - The Ranger Station
Explorer Overhead Console Upgrade - The Ranger Station
Compass / Temperature Mirror Install - The Ranger Station
Interior Electronics & Upholstery - The Ranger Station
F7 Ford Ranger Rear Axles (1983-2011) - The Ranger Station
Adding Cruise Control To Your Ford Ranger - The Ranger Station
Ford Ranger Door Interchange Guide - The Ranger Station

Radiator Early 90 Explorer Automatic Radiator Upgrade for Truck, use 4.0 Upper Radiator Hose.

 

I bought these from Addicted Creationz Used to replace the Réservoir that is not longer available.
DIY Heavy-Duty Aftermarket Truck Bumpers & Accessories | MOVE Bumpers

I found him on Facebook Adddicted Creationz

 

Axle information

$1835 +20+100=$1955. Bought some tools, materials and door panel
$1955+15+25=2035 Trim tools and LED Dome light

 

This is just temporary as I plan on buying another set of door panels off of a 91 truck. These panels do require some work to make fit

The newer doors require a little bracket to support the inside door handle. I used some Anti Seize to locate where I needed to mark where to mount the support.

Antisieze on screw holes

The 3rd hole needs drilled a slight bit larger to let this pin go in.

A Step bit and first size hole worked great.

 

Can someone tell me where this plug goes to? The sensor was broken off into the harness. I have checked Transmission and Transfercase and can not locate it.