Motor Swapping a 4x4 86 ranger
#1
Motor Swapping a 4x4 86 ranger
So I've been having issues with my ranger its a 86 with the 2.9l v6 and automatic 4x4 transmission been having issues with both motor and trans and ive been thinking of swapping it and a buddy sent me ads for a 86 302 and also a 89 AOD 4x4 trans now what would need to be done for that to fit? The 302 is carbureted while the 2.9 is fuel injected. Now I've got the full set up with the 2.9 automatic everything except windows auto locking hubs press button 4x4 and auto trans i want to keep that so im trying to figure out what I should be looking for
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
The carb'ed 302 with an AOD trans is a good combination, but your BW1350 transfer case won't bolt to the 4x4 AOD, and it would fail pretty quick in any case
You will need a BW1356 with electric shift, your current shift motor and controller will work with this transfer case, and auto hubs, they don't care about any of this
The BW1356 is wider than the 1354, so when you mount the engine and trans move them 3/8" to passenger side, and it will fit, or you can notch the frame but that will weaken it unless you reinforce it
On the AOD there is a cable adjustment that is VERY important, you will burn up the trans unless its done right
The carb'ed 302 with an AOD trans is a good combination, but your BW1350 transfer case won't bolt to the 4x4 AOD, and it would fail pretty quick in any case
You will need a BW1356 with electric shift, your current shift motor and controller will work with this transfer case, and auto hubs, they don't care about any of this
The BW1356 is wider than the 1354, so when you mount the engine and trans move them 3/8" to passenger side, and it will fit, or you can notch the frame but that will weaken it unless you reinforce it
On the AOD there is a cable adjustment that is VERY important, you will burn up the trans unless its done right
#3
Welcome to the forum
The carb'ed 302 with an AOD trans is a good combination, but your BW1350 transfer case won't bolt to the 4x4 AOD, and it would fail pretty quick in any case
You will need a BW1356 with electric shift, your current shift motor and controller will work with this transfer case, and auto hubs, they don't care about any of this
The BW1356 is wider than the 1354, so when you mount the engine and trans move them 3/8" to passenger side, and it will fit, or you can notch the frame but that will weaken it unless you reinforce it
On the AOD there is a cable adjustment that is VERY important, you will burn up the trans unless its done right
The carb'ed 302 with an AOD trans is a good combination, but your BW1350 transfer case won't bolt to the 4x4 AOD, and it would fail pretty quick in any case
You will need a BW1356 with electric shift, your current shift motor and controller will work with this transfer case, and auto hubs, they don't care about any of this
The BW1356 is wider than the 1354, so when you mount the engine and trans move them 3/8" to passenger side, and it will fit, or you can notch the frame but that will weaken it unless you reinforce it
On the AOD there is a cable adjustment that is VERY important, you will burn up the trans unless its done right
#4
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes, if it's electric shift, 1989 should be BW1354
Rear will look like this: https://www.smartpartsauto.com/image...nsfer_case.jpg
You can see where your shift motor would go, exactly the same setup as on the BW1354, or if it has a shift motor on it, you can use it, same wiring harness
Your rear drive shaft, of course, won't work, wrong length, not sure about the front drive shaft
Rear will look like this: https://www.smartpartsauto.com/image...nsfer_case.jpg
You can see where your shift motor would go, exactly the same setup as on the BW1354, or if it has a shift motor on it, you can use it, same wiring harness
Your rear drive shaft, of course, won't work, wrong length, not sure about the front drive shaft
#5
Yes, if it's electric shift, 1989 should be BW1354
Rear will look like this: https://www.smartpartsauto.com/image...nsfer_case.jpg
You can see where your shift motor would go, exactly the same setup as on the BW1354, or if it has a shift motor on it, you can use it, same wiring harness
Your rear drive shaft, of course, won't work, wrong length, not sure about the front drive shaft
Rear will look like this: https://www.smartpartsauto.com/image...nsfer_case.jpg
You can see where your shift motor would go, exactly the same setup as on the BW1354, or if it has a shift motor on it, you can use it, same wiring harness
Your rear drive shaft, of course, won't work, wrong length, not sure about the front drive shaft
#6
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#7
This is a BW-1356 correct? It looks like it has a elctronic shift,
I just want to make sure its gonna work because my ranger is my daily driver and I can't decommission it for too long I know both driveshafts will need to be changed
#8
This is a BW-1356 correct? It looks like it has a elctronic shift,
I just want to make sure its gonna work because my ranger is my daily driver and I can't decommission it for too long I know both driveshafts will need to be changed
#9
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Its a BW1356 alright but a manual shift
All BW1356 have rear case thats cast with electric shift but its sealed and bolt holes are not drilled or threaded, if its going to be a manual shift
The shift shaft with bar attached is on front case, the electrical plug-in just below it is for High Low 4WD lights on the dash
Short video of a BW1356 manual shift here:
Electric shift BW1356 rear housing would look like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CXDWLXnW_sQ/hqdefault.jpg
All BW1356 have rear case thats cast with electric shift but its sealed and bolt holes are not drilled or threaded, if its going to be a manual shift
The shift shaft with bar attached is on front case, the electrical plug-in just below it is for High Low 4WD lights on the dash
Short video of a BW1356 manual shift here:
Electric shift BW1356 rear housing would look like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CXDWLXnW_sQ/hqdefault.jpg
#10
Its a BW1356 alright but a manual shift
All BW1356 have rear case thats cast with electric shift but its sealed and bolt holes are not drilled or threaded, if its going to be a manual shift
The shift shaft with bar attached is on front case, the electrical plug-in just below it is for High Low 4WD lights on the dash
Short video of a BW1356 manual shift here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0INOOhnIfYI
Electric shift BW1356 rear housing would look like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CXDWLXnW_sQ/hqdefault.jpg
All BW1356 have rear case thats cast with electric shift but its sealed and bolt holes are not drilled or threaded, if its going to be a manual shift
The shift shaft with bar attached is on front case, the electrical plug-in just below it is for High Low 4WD lights on the dash
Short video of a BW1356 manual shift here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0INOOhnIfYI
Electric shift BW1356 rear housing would look like this: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CXDWLXnW_sQ/hqdefault.jpg
#11
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#12
thank you, now it was mentioned above shifting everything 3/8ths of an inch towards the passenger side so I wouldn't have to notch the frame do you happen to have any pictures or videos of this being done?
#13
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Have a look at this article: https://www.therangerstation.com/Mag...7_ranger.shtml
You can see how the V8 mounts using Ranger mounts and V8 plates, so you can elongate the holes in the plates and add holes for locator pins vs grinding then off
This guy is using the Explorer AWD transfer case so no clearance issue except for remote oil filter which needs the same shifting to passenger side
Same for transmission mount, elongate the holes, either at the trans or at the cross member ends
You can see how the V8 mounts using Ranger mounts and V8 plates, so you can elongate the holes in the plates and add holes for locator pins vs grinding then off
This guy is using the Explorer AWD transfer case so no clearance issue except for remote oil filter which needs the same shifting to passenger side
Same for transmission mount, elongate the holes, either at the trans or at the cross member ends
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