Tips for my 2009 4.0 4x4 Supercab
#1
Tips for my 2009 4.0 4x4 Supercab
Just got this Ranger of a guy who bought it off an auction and was too lazy to put it together, it comes with everything you see missing. I’ll have it together by next Friday and hopefully painted as well. Any tips on upgrades? I want to do a superlift for 33s but is kind of expensive since it is a 4x4 and want to keep stock ride so most likely going for body lift unless you guys recommend anything better?... I Still have to see if it comes with the 8.8 axle or the 7.5, I read here in the forum that even if it’s the 8.8 it is a 28 spline and I know the 8.8 from the Explorer is a 31 spline, is there actually any difference worth swapping? Don’t know much about axles and splines!
#3
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
It will have 8.8" rear axle, 28-spline, no, 31-spline swap isn't practical even in a V8 swap unless you are trying for over 300HP
Front axle will be a Dana 35 SLA
Yes both axles need to run the same ratio, ring and pinion sets
But you don't have to swap both axles, you just need to match the "new" axle to the one thats not being swapped
You can find what it has now by looking at the drivers door back edge, there will be a label there with info on your specific truck
Read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...le_codes.shtml
get the AXLE code
2009 4x4 should be 4.10 ratio, that was standard on most 4.0l 4x4s, but could be 3.73 in Calif., because that gives better MPG in highway driving
Yes suspension lifts are expensive, body lifts don't cost as much but have their own set of issues to overcome
Just a heads up, if vehicle was "totaled" by an insurance company, you will most likely need to have a Vehicle Inspection to register it again, and these can be expensive and you usually have to do this(pay) 2 or 3 times to pass inspection
So check into that FIRST!!! before spending too much money on it
The "guy" you got it from may not have been lazy, he may have found out it was too expensive to get it re-registered, in Calif.
If this is the case then you may be able to find a similar 4x4 Ranger that has a bad engine and/or transmission, trashed interior, buy it cheap and then use your "totaled" truck as a parts truck so no inspections except Smog
2001-2011 Ranger 4x4 4.0ls used the same drive train, the cab electrics changed in 2004, so 2004-2011 would be better match up for ALL parts
It will have 8.8" rear axle, 28-spline, no, 31-spline swap isn't practical even in a V8 swap unless you are trying for over 300HP
Front axle will be a Dana 35 SLA
Yes both axles need to run the same ratio, ring and pinion sets
But you don't have to swap both axles, you just need to match the "new" axle to the one thats not being swapped
You can find what it has now by looking at the drivers door back edge, there will be a label there with info on your specific truck
Read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...le_codes.shtml
get the AXLE code
2009 4x4 should be 4.10 ratio, that was standard on most 4.0l 4x4s, but could be 3.73 in Calif., because that gives better MPG in highway driving
Yes suspension lifts are expensive, body lifts don't cost as much but have their own set of issues to overcome
Just a heads up, if vehicle was "totaled" by an insurance company, you will most likely need to have a Vehicle Inspection to register it again, and these can be expensive and you usually have to do this(pay) 2 or 3 times to pass inspection
So check into that FIRST!!! before spending too much money on it
The "guy" you got it from may not have been lazy, he may have found out it was too expensive to get it re-registered, in Calif.
If this is the case then you may be able to find a similar 4x4 Ranger that has a bad engine and/or transmission, trashed interior, buy it cheap and then use your "totaled" truck as a parts truck so no inspections except Smog
2001-2011 Ranger 4x4 4.0ls used the same drive train, the cab electrics changed in 2004, so 2004-2011 would be better match up for ALL parts
Last edited by RonD; 03-07-2020 at 11:13 AM.
#4
thank you! 31 spline Definitely would not be necessary since I won’t be reaching anywhere near 300hp lmao.
Btw would just matching the Dana 35 to the 8.8 gears work or would a new 8.8 for the front be smoother.
It is a salvage title but either way I have a relative who does all that paperwork and is able to get it thru with no inspection, my dad has done it a few times when he gets random customs inspections and works every time. Thank you for the info tho definitely going to help for the parts
Btw would just matching the Dana 35 to the 8.8 gears work or would a new 8.8 for the front be smoother.
It is a salvage title but either way I have a relative who does all that paperwork and is able to get it thru with no inspection, my dad has done it a few times when he gets random customs inspections and works every time. Thank you for the info tho definitely going to help for the parts
#5
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Yes, if you are keeping the rear 8.8" then you would replace the front with another Dana35 SLA with match ratio, not an 8.8" because they have no steering, no u-joint or CV joint at the wheel end of axle
If you are unsure of what ratio a differential has you can just turn the driveshaft connection and count the number of turns it takes for the wheel axle to make 1 full turn
Mark the wheel axle
Mark the drive line connection
Turn drive line connection, if it turns 3 and 3/4 turns for 1 full turn of the wheel axle then its a 3.73, if it turns just over 4 times then its a 4.10 ratio
If you are unsure of what ratio a differential has you can just turn the driveshaft connection and count the number of turns it takes for the wheel axle to make 1 full turn
Mark the wheel axle
Mark the drive line connection
Turn drive line connection, if it turns 3 and 3/4 turns for 1 full turn of the wheel axle then its a 3.73, if it turns just over 4 times then its a 4.10 ratio
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