Nice work here. Looking forward to the "end game". Keep up the good work. (And if you feel like working on Rust - head north a little) :)

 

Thanks!!

The rear end of this machine has been a complicated challenge.
Traction AND handling, are sometimes hard to blend together. Compromises are made for each. Too soft, for traction, hurts handling. Too stiff for handling, reduces straight-line traction.
Watts link, sway bar and proper shock mounting, help control rear end movement and body roll. Reducing friction and binding in the springs help " squat", during acceleration. The long torque arm, pivoted at/ near the balance point of the truck, maximizes the traction by lifting the entire weight of the truck.
The leafs would be lifting at the front of the fiberglass bed. Not much weight there!
Adjustable rear shocks will be important in getting the correct " motion" in the rear. I can swap those in later without major modifications.
once I weigh the truck, (4 race car scales), I will have a better idea of where I am.

Moving my attention back to the front soon.

stay tuned!

 

Before I move back up front, I wanted to up-grade the bolts in the leaf springs, from 13mm to 5/8" (16mm). The old bolts neck down to 12mm part way down! Too small for me !!

This truck was not designed to handle 500 HP! I drilled out the steel bushing, inside the urethane, to accept the larger grade 8 bolts. ny-lock nuts and heavy duty washers.

The large and thick washers should help spread the load out.
I may spot weld the washers in 8 spots, around the outer edge.
All the push and pull goes through these 4 bolts. During acceleration and braking.

Side to side goes through the Watts Link, now.
I wanted to take the cornering, side loads, off of the leafs, to free them up. Leaf bolts can now be "snug", not "up-tight"!

Lifting the truck / pushing the rear end down Into the pavement is now managed by the long Torque-arm. A reaction from the "torquing up" of the rear end, under acceleration

Body roll is managed by the roll bar and shocks.
The term "sway bar", is a mis-nomer". The sway of the truck is actually handled by the Watts Link. (Keeping the rear end centered under the truck).
The shocks help with all the movements of the truck.
Drag cars, never use sway bars. They don't help with "straight-line traction.
There will be some testing yet to do. Shock and spring rates will be evaluated. Rear sway bars can be tricky to get just right. They sometimes can cause some bad effects in handling. It might have to be removed! Don't know just yet.


The rear shackles get the same treatment. Over building, I know, but crazy power is only a turn of the boost controller away! Not sure right now what components I will be using in the engine bottom end.
My luck, ... I will have a Hell Cat pull up next to me ;-) !

 

Here was my lightning during a dyno challenge. I do miss the sound and performance! I did get some of those wheels for the Ranger, to capture the "Look", but the off-set and bolt patterns just didn't work out. I do like the Saleen rims. And the fit is perfect!

 

Time to hang some of the accessories on the engine. First, make a mounting plate for the Alt, on the head. These were "tight" on the Grand Nationals! (Getting around the boost pipes).
This is an orig core, off the shop floor. I will be getting a new one

I will be mounting the Ranger power steering Pump below the Alt. These will be "mocked-up", before I finalize anything. Not sure about AC. This truck did not come with it. I'd like to run an AC pump, to chill down water, to run through the chiller pipe. Maybe incorporate some cold water into AC for the cab. ?!

 

The Grand National guy came up with the aluminum plate that mounts the accessories on the drivers side of the engine. I will need to make a plate to adapt the Ranger steering pump to the GN plate. So here I have all parts lined up and with the stock GN belt in place, I can make the needed adaptor plate.
The metal bar is "clamped-in-place", to line up the pulleys and hold the pump in place so, I can get measurements for my adaptor plate.
The power steering pump is on the bottom.

 

I bailed out on the steel plate I was making for the Alt. The alum combo mount had everything worked out, in a very small package.
The Alt. actually mounted onto the belt tensioner bracket! (Had no idea)!
here is a shot.



Checking here to make sure the intake pipe still fits.

I wanted to make sure I can still get to the power steering fill cap.

 

Looking good.

The only thing I'm concerned about is the amount of belt on the A/C pulley.

 

Good call! I don't yet have the steel brace for the top of the Alt.
The block of wood is in there to check on belt length.
From the Buick pix I have seen, the Alt stands up much straighter, which will help.
can't move the PS pump up or over without modifying the alum bracket.
The F-150 uses a remote reservoir. That may give some room to go left and up, (as we look at it).
Thanks for the input! (Always welcome!)
easy to fix NOW! ... not so much later!!

I have the small Idler pulley, from the 2.5 that could be placed between the AC and PS pulleys to increase the "wrap" on both!?!

 

I am adding an idler pulley between the AC & PS pumps, to increase the belt contact with the pulleys.

Thanks to "Supercab 2011" for the good catch!

A template, for the bracket to mount the Ranger PS pump, made from card board. Attaching a template to properly locate the pump, to line up pulleys and mount the idler pulley at the same time.

Masking tape and card board brace keep things spaced and lined up.

Some thought into how to properly cut this apart, when making it from steel. Need to allow for the increased thickness of the steel plate also. The total thickness is critical to the alignment of the pulleys.

 

Traced out bracket shapes so plasma cutter can follow the lines. 1/4" steel plate The plasma cutter does the holes too! Makes a nice clean cut.

 

Covid-19 closed down the walk in plasma cutting business, so I am back to the "flame wrench". I am OK with a torch, but not great. Found a large piece of steel and went for it !!

Not my smoothest job, but I cut wide, so I had plenty to grind off.

Looks more like "SPAZMA-CUT" !! ICK 😳
I only have one tip for my cutting torch, it has 5 gas holes in it. .... A bit large for this kind of work.

Will re-measure holes before drilling.
steel is not "forgiving" on bolt holes!

Spacing between plates controls pulley alingment. I milled a piece with parallel ends, to keep the plates in line. Then tacked it up. I had a wet rag handy, to keep from "MELTING" the PS resevoire..
The "V" in the inner circle is for a Support-rib on the PS pump. The rib kept the pump from setting down flat! Had to make some room!

Got both parts bolted up and clamped it all together. Made a strut to go between the parts, then heavy tack.
Have not drilled the hole for the idler pulley yet. The location of this pulley will be critical to the belt tensioner movement /adjustment.

 

While " cleaning up", I kept seeing cardboard templates laying around. I picked up a few. Each one brings back memories.
..... Like the burns and scars on my hands !!
Maybe I'll start a scrap book !?!

 

Finally welded up the brackets and put the PS pump in place.
Now grind, sand, prime and paint

 

I have been playing a little game I like to call “grease or bruise?” There is plenty of each these days.

Your project is looking great. Keep the updates coming.

 

Thanks!
Looking at all the "rusty" 1987 accessories, it is starting to look pricey to replace all these parts.
Guess I was hoping they were in a little better condition.
Well hell!! ... I was in a LOT better shape 35 years ago !! 🥴

 

Added a mount for the tensioner pulley. Welded on some triangles, in the proper directions to counter the forces from the belt.

Remounted the pump to check the fit.

Reassembled the pump and belt, with idler pulley.
the tensioner is now in the center of its' travel.

 

This is at ride height
I am just testing to see if I am close! Will put rotor on next and attach camber gauge on the hub, where it belongs.
I will also install spring and wheel and lower truck onto "swivel plates", to check caster.
I want to see camber and caster readings with weight on the suspension.
I will make my "tack welds" a little heavier, for weight on truck readings.

This is spindle up four. ... like on the brakes ! (Truck down. wheel up) ! Moving the suspension, not the truck.

This is the spindle all the way down, (truck up) Like accelerating hard! Wheels in the air ?!!!
removed the PS pump to prevent from burning / melting the plastic reservoir.
Also need to re-establish bump stops, for both up and down movements.


I have raised the upper A-arm mounts about 1 1/4" to stabilize the camber changes, in the range I am working with. The truck is lowered 3". I raised them 2" to start with, which was too much !! Had to cut and re-weld.Remember, Tac & test !! ... So easy to forget !
The camber adjusters are set at their mid point to leave me some adjustment room.
Still need to check toe changes. But getting camber under control, makes toe easier.
I bought springs for the front to lower it. Yet retain a nice ride quality. The rear came down a little over 3", by using the Explorer rear end, (with spring perches on the bottom of the axle tube).

To help take weight off of the suspension assembly, for this test, I hooked-up some springs. The suspension now stays where I set it. Very handy for measuring. I want to keep camber changes to + or - 1 degree, over 7" of travel, if possible. The lower control arm, swings at one arc, The upper arm swings at a shorter arc, and the tie-rod at somewhere in between. The goal is to have all three arcs at their respective "0" point, at or near ride height, to minimize changes exerted on the spindle.

 

Caster, with this digital gauge, is measured by turning the front wheel out, then in 15 degrees.
This is different from the bubble type gauges.
It is the measure of the forward to rear ward "tilt" of the spindle.
I have the suspension "blocked up" at ride height. (Notice stick from frame to A arm).

Camber is the inner or outer tilt of the wheel.
With wide tires, it is critical to keep that big tire patch flat on the ground.

The toe was changing 1/4" or more, from up to down of the spindle. Raising the pivot point of the outer tie rod, took care of it. Now the toe changes less than 1/32" over 7" of travel.
I will make a steel spacer to replace the washers.

Mounts are tacked. I have moved them twice already. Final welding will happen once I get the truck "on the ground!
Will add a few more tacks, to handle the weight.

 

The "Boss" indicated that the dinning room was in need of some paint. Mask, cut, trim, paint, (Be careful of indications!) !! ... they very quickly can become confrontations, if ignored. JUST DO IT ! That is my humble opinion. 🧔

will finalize Ranger front end next week

 

Back at it!
Had too much caster, after the last tack. Camber was ok, but adjusters were maxed out. Set adjusters at mid point. Cut and moved them again. I was having issues with the gauge! The batteries were low. Changed them out and started getting consistent readings.

The assembly, with rotor, is more than I can deal with, with one hand. So I made a wooden cradle to put on my floor jack to hold things up, while cutting the upper mounts loose. Notice the "turn-plate", under the set-up. This ensures the wheel is turned 15 degrees both ways for correct caster check.

Measuring at ride height is critical, since that is where the truck will spend most of its time.
Go up 8 pix and you can see where the top mount was. Moved it about 1/8".
Most of the change happened at the rear mount. It came out and forward. This cured two issues. Out, brought the camber into line. Forward, helped with the caster.
Cutting both loose, made sure that the top A-arms stay in line while re-welded.
I had my "trusty" bubble level on the rotor as a quick check. The digital level was acting strange, as I said. A battery swap cured the issues. When moving things around, the constant flickering of the numbers makes me crazy!! I like "old school" stuff.

Caster is at 6 degrees.
Look how clear the numbers are w / some new batteries !

Camber is at 0 for now. Let's see how it acts when weight is on it

 

Here is where it ended up. 1 1/4" above stock.
Camber now stays within 1 degree, over 7" of travel, (up and down).
Stock, ... the camber was going Negative as I pushed down on the truck, from ride height.
I took a "guess", at 2" higher, for the upper arm mounts. That made the camber go Positive, when pushing down. (no shocks, bounce the front, up and down). Top of wheel tilting out.
I cut loose the mounts and lowered to 1 1/4" above stock. Camber stays straight now.
Got it close enough, by eye, to put on the camber gauge. Camber and caster have to be "worked" together. Toe too! It is just much easier to correct toe, after camber/caster are done.



Here is where I started. I was thinking 2/3's of the three inches that the truck was lowered.
Really just a place to start. (Wild-azz guess) !!
The actual "measurements" tell the truth.
You need a "specialized" gauge to measure caster. I like this one MORE now, since the battery change! (Frustrating, getting different readings back to back) !!

 

Took some time to do a little fishing with my son this morning. Only caught a couple of small Pickerel, but had fun with my son !
Been raining a lot, so water is pretty cloudy.

 

Got on the upper A-arm mounts today. Removed the stainless headers to prevent splattering them. "0" Camber and 6 degrees Caster are the goals. If the caster is off, the truck will pull towards the lower number. Once again, cut, tack, measure, cut, move, tack, measure, ..... DAMIT!! ... cut, move back 1/2 way, tack measure. Ahhhhh.
It appears 3/16" equals 1 degree change on caster. (On this setup.)
If you look right above the rotor and just behind the spindle, you can see where I removed the steel "step" that held the rubber snubber.
With the truck lowered 3", there was only 2" travel left, before touching the snubber. I will replace the snubber, directly on the frame. Looking for 4" down travel. I will need to notch the lower A-arm mount slightly for the extra movement. (I did the drivers side already).

Started with some 1/4" angle. Will "box it in", once it is in the right spot. The piece I trimmed off should work fine. I will mill it down to fit. Round the corner, to fit the angle and weld it in place. When the brakes are applied, LOTS of force tries to "rip" the top mount up and forward. So I don't want this connection to the frame to be weak !!

 

Moved the Ranger outside, to do some badly needed shop cleaning. Thought you might like to see the "stance" of the truck on flat ground. Still looking for a 15 to 20 gal fuel cell. Once that and battery are mounted in the back, I will replace the bed.