Why do you want the highest extended/compressed length? All you need to worry about is how much travel the shock has, then mount it where it needs to go.

 

I dont know I just kinda figured most was the best but you make a great point about mounting them where I want to.

 

Could I make custom radius arms for cheap or is it better to buy them?

They have these from James Duff



Ours are the only Early Bronco Radius Arms to utilize 2" diameter, 1/4" thick heavy wall tubing, cast iron head units, and massive 1" bore high quality Rod Ends for maximum strength. Arms are designed with built in caster, offset to clear larger tires and tight to the frame rail to improve ground clearance. 10 3/4" longer than stock—Moving the pivot point farther back vastly improving suspension travel and articulation, overall handling and control for on road driving. Built in lower shock mounts for use with stock shock mounting position or our Stage 2 Hoops and our Long Travel Shocks for 15" of travel. Best results are achieved when these arms are used in conjunction with Duff suspension components. Blue powdercoated for long lasting good looks. Requires reuse of original C-caps. Includes arms, head units, rod ends, bushings and all necessary mounting hardware. All new parts, no core necessary.
#5350 Stage 3 Tubular Radius Arms, 1966-77 Bronco, $699.00

But then how do I go about mounting them to the frame?

 

way to expensive! why cant you use stock ones with stock brackets??

 

cause stock **** sucks.. well the length and the ends atleast. They really need to be extended. and it can be done with stock ones, tube and Ballistic Joints for far less than $700

 

I dont have the stock ones but I am getting them so I am extending them myself.

 

thats what im doing.. stock and extending them! anyone wanna buy a 3 inch johnny joint??

 

How are you going about extending them?

 

search for the user name "ford rules" and look at his extended radius arm build.. read up cause its hella good! execpt im doing it the other way thats posted near the begining of the thread that uses more DOM. ill try to find the link

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...arm-build.html

 

Thanks dude I will read it tomorrow.

 

is a ballistic forged one?

 

actually just realized its a trail-gear creeper joint

 

Got my rims yesterday just some cheap 15X8 5 on 5.5" steel d-windows to run when I first do the swap. Will post pictures when not raining. Anyone know the best way to get the red and blue stickers off of them?

 

Lacquer/paint thinner works i believe!

 

Tomorrow I am taking the axle apart to clean it up and paint it. Also to replace the fluids and probably alot of other stuff inside it. It will be apart for about 2 weeks I want to make sure this things is mint when it goes under my truck.

 

Thanks I will try that. I really dont care about these cause after I get money I am just using them for 4 spared rims and going to put my old tires on them.