Zabeards SAS Thread
#1526
I have the same problem with my 9" the driveshaft is going to run right through where the tank is. If you still want the function of using your bed you could do a rear mounted B2 tank like the old dual tank style trucks. Rockranger from EF has that setup on his truck.
#1527
yeah its gonna hit rub driving down the road. oh well. full width isnt that bad i dont think either. really surprised me.
#1528
I have the same problem with my 9" the driveshaft is going to run right through where the tank is. If you still want the function of using your bed you could do a rear mounted B2 tank like the old dual tank style trucks. Rockranger from EF has that setup on his truck.
Anyone know how much up travel is needed in the rear driveshaft? 2-3 inches be enough?
#1529
No pictures today.
I pulled the radiator, efan, intake, and cut a bunch of junk off the front of the frame. I was about to cut front section of the frame off but then decided I didnt want to work on it that long today so i stopped. I set the pinion angle too on the rear axle. its almost done. need some brake line work.
I pulled the radiator, efan, intake, and cut a bunch of junk off the front of the frame. I was about to cut front section of the frame off but then decided I didnt want to work on it that long today so i stopped. I set the pinion angle too on the rear axle. its almost done. need some brake line work.
#1530
#1532
lol its not for sale. just taking it out while i work the frame.
#1533
I would shorten it about 3" if it were mine.
You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.
You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.
#1534
I would shorten it about 3" if it were mine.
You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.
You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.
#1538
I should have just done this...
new shock hoops
18" coil overs
3 link (passenger side upper) with 2.25" DOM
pan hard
jj's or heims
would have been so much easier.
#1540
If travel was REALLY an issue (dont know why that much is) then you can mount the C/Os on the lower links to give a better net wheel travel
#1541
Since you've re-done your exhaust Zach, do you have the necessary clearance on the passenger side for a 3-link with a passenger side upper?
#1542
#1544
they are there so the tires dont hit the bed... once i change some stuff up i will lower it 3 inches in the front and rear. you know the changes i believe but for now i need to protect that bed.
#1546
also, dont do 18 inchs coilovers. unless they now have a spring that would work, no spring is long enough and upon full droop, the spring can unmount and fall under the shock tube. not something you want to chance for only two extra inches...
If travel was REALLY an issue (dont know why that much is) then you can mount the C/Os on the lower links to give a better net wheel travel
If travel was REALLY an issue (dont know why that much is) then you can mount the C/Os on the lower links to give a better net wheel travel
thanks walt
#1547
#1548
Zach, what is your opinion on a drivers side upper (for a 3-link; upper going to the top of the diff)? I'm honestly start to re-think the radius arms I was gonna go with.. like I mentioned to you before, a 3-link with passenger upper for me isn't quite do-able with my current exhaust/cat setup. However I'm pondering a possible driver's side upper (for a 3-link).
#1549
Zach, what is your opinion on a drivers side upper (for a 3-link; upper going to the top of the diff)? I'm honestly start to re-think the radius arms I was gonna go with.. like I mentioned to you before, a 3-link with passenger upper for me isn't quite do-able with my current exhaust/cat setup. However I'm pondering a possible driver's side upper (for a 3-link).
Seems like the drivers side would be tight and you have to watch the fuel lines and such.
#1550