I have the same problem with my 9" the driveshaft is going to run right through where the tank is. If you still want the function of using your bed you could do a rear mounted B2 tank like the old dual tank style trucks. Rockranger from EF has that setup on his truck.

 

I have already gotten that taken care of. Give it a few more weeks.

yep i agree guys. its off and its not going to work with the stock tank :(

yeah its gonna hit rub driving down the road. oh well. full width isnt that bad i dont think either. really surprised me.

 

i have seen the BII setup it was ok but not really what i want. I already have a fuel cell adapter, just need to buy the cell. Guess I will be ordering that tomorrow.

Anyone know how much up travel is needed in the rear driveshaft? 2-3 inches be enough?

 

No pictures today.

I pulled the radiator, efan, intake, and cut a bunch of junk off the front of the frame. I was about to cut front section of the frame off but then decided I didnt want to work on it that long today so i stopped. I set the pinion angle too on the rear axle. its almost done. need some brake line work.

 

When you say up travel, do you mean how much the slip joint has to it is fully closed (front and rear parts hitting)? I think 3" would be pushing it, the splines should be about have way out when the truck is sitting on its own weight.

 

wanna give me your radiator

 

well its not really going to go up much, maybe a few inches. but droop is where i would have alot. see it will fit on my D60 now if it is completly compressed. So i need to shorten in 2-3 inches?

lol its not for sale. just taking it out while i work the frame.

 

I would shorten it about 3" if it were mine.

You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.

 

yeah i always forget that. usually they want that exact procedure.

 

that is what I have always been asked.

 

Kick *** man looks like its coming along nice.

 

Sweet, so fender flares and a fuel cell. Can't wait to see this all done up, I bet you cant either lol

 

lol yes and no... i want to drive it yes. do i want to debug all the issues again? no not really. LOL

I should have just done this...

new shock hoops
18" coil overs
3 link (passenger side upper) with 2.25" DOM
pan hard
jj's or heims

would have been so much easier.

 

zach they hard work is in place, switching the suspension setup now is all downhill.

looks good but why the blocks

 

also, dont do 18 inchs coilovers. unless they now have a spring that would work, no spring is long enough and upon full droop, the spring can unmount and fall under the shock tube. not something you want to chance for only two extra inches...


If travel was REALLY an issue (dont know why that much is) then you can mount the C/Os on the lower links to give a better net wheel travel

 

Since you've re-done your exhaust Zach, do you have the necessary clearance on the passenger side for a 3-link with a passenger side upper?

 

its higher than the frame so i should

 

very well thought out,zach your truck looks great full width,idk maybe mine hmmmm

 

they are there so the tires dont hit the bed... once i change some stuff up i will lower it 3 inches in the front and rear. you know the changes i believe but for now i need to protect that bed.

 

if it was not for that hard to deal with tone ring the desition would be easy to make

 

ah i didnt know that. 16" would be more than enough im sure. but its too late for now, maybe i will do that later on


thanks walt

 

for how much youve dumped into the truck, a garnd for that new setup would be change...

 

Zach, what is your opinion on a drivers side upper (for a 3-link; upper going to the top of the diff)? I'm honestly start to re-think the radius arms I was gonna go with.. like I mentioned to you before, a 3-link with passenger upper for me isn't quite do-able with my current exhaust/cat setup. However I'm pondering a possible driver's side upper (for a 3-link).

 

do it on the passenger side but run it to the lower link. kinda like my current arms just do it on one side. i have seen it done before.

Seems like the drivers side would be tight and you have to watch the fuel lines and such.

 

yeah you are probably right. i am on a deadline though. i only have 3 weeks before i am off too the dunes and the one weekend i wont even be home.