Zabeards SAS Thread - Page 62 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1526  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
idk maybe its a visual thing. either way the driveshaft is only like a half inch from the tank
I have the same problem with my 9" the driveshaft is going to run right through where the tank is. If you still want the function of using your bed you could do a rear mounted B2 tank like the old dual tank style trucks. Rockranger from EF has that setup on his truck.
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  #1527  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
looks good man.

Now you need to take Nick some fender flares to paint Sonic Blue!

Can't wait to see it!
I have already gotten that taken care of. Give it a few more weeks.

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Originally Posted by stRanger View Post
looks good beard!! I will say that a FW 8.8 is offset... I found that out the hard way being when I bought spare shafts and all I could find was passenger side grabbed two got home and realize that it wouldn't work on the drivers side... so yea go figure...
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Originally Posted by mazda98 View Post
yep it offsets to the passenger side about 2"
yep i agree guys. its off and its not going to work with the stock tank :(

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Originally Posted by INT3RC3PTOR View Post
yeah thats gona rub when flexing around. but it might be fine. Fuel cell in the future would be prime.

truck looks great though and the FW doesnt stick out bad at all with those rims you picked
yeah its gonna hit rub driving down the road. oh well. full width isnt that bad i dont think either. really surprised me.
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  #1528  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by redranger4.0 View Post
I have the same problem with my 9" the driveshaft is going to run right through where the tank is. If you still want the function of using your bed you could do a rear mounted B2 tank like the old dual tank style trucks. Rockranger from EF has that setup on his truck.
i have seen the BII setup it was ok but not really what i want. I already have a fuel cell adapter, just need to buy the cell. Guess I will be ordering that tomorrow.

Anyone know how much up travel is needed in the rear driveshaft? 2-3 inches be enough?
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  #1529  
Old 05-04-2008
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No pictures today.

I pulled the radiator, efan, intake, and cut a bunch of junk off the front of the frame. I was about to cut front section of the frame off but then decided I didnt want to work on it that long today so i stopped. I set the pinion angle too on the rear axle. its almost done. need some brake line work.
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  #1530  
Old 05-04-2008
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When you say up travel, do you mean how much the slip joint has to it is fully closed (front and rear parts hitting)? I think 3" would be pushing it, the splines should be about have way out when the truck is sitting on its own weight.
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  #1531  
Old 05-04-2008
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wanna give me your radiator
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  #1532  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
When you say up travel, do you mean how much the slip joint has to it is fully closed (front and rear parts hitting)? I think 3" would be pushing it, the splines should be about have way out when the truck is sitting on its own weight.
well its not really going to go up much, maybe a few inches. but droop is where i would have alot. see it will fit on my D60 now if it is completly compressed. So i need to shorten in 2-3 inches?

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wanna give me your radiator
lol its not for sale. just taking it out while i work the frame.
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  #1533  
Old 05-04-2008
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I would shorten it about 3" if it were mine.

You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.
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  #1534  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
I would shorten it about 3" if it were mine.

You should compress your rear end and measure the distance from mounting point to mounting point. Then do the same with the suspension drooped out. Then take a measurement with the truck setting on its own weight. Take those measurements to the driveline shop that will do the driveshaft shortening and they can tell you what you need.
yeah i always forget that. usually they want that exact procedure.
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  #1535  
Old 05-04-2008
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that is what I have always been asked.
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  #1536  
Old 05-04-2008
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Kick *** man looks like its coming along nice.
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  #1537  
Old 05-04-2008
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Sweet, so fender flares and a fuel cell. Can't wait to see this all done up, I bet you cant either lol
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  #1538  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by 04blackedge View Post
Sweet, so fender flares and a fuel cell. Can't wait to see this all done up, I bet you cant either lol
lol yes and no... i want to drive it yes. do i want to debug all the issues again? no not really. LOL

I should have just done this...

new shock hoops
18" coil overs
3 link (passenger side upper) with 2.25" DOM
pan hard
jj's or heims

would have been so much easier.
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  #1539  
Old 05-04-2008
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zach they hard work is in place, switching the suspension setup now is all downhill.

looks good but why the blocks
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  #1540  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
lol yes and no... i want to drive it yes. do i want to debug all the issues again? no not really. LOL

I should have just done this...

new shock hoops
18" coil overs
3 link (passenger side upper) with 2.25" DOM
pan hard
jj's or heims

would have been so much easier.
also, dont do 18 inchs coilovers. unless they now have a spring that would work, no spring is long enough and upon full droop, the spring can unmount and fall under the shock tube. not something you want to chance for only two extra inches...


If travel was REALLY an issue (dont know why that much is) then you can mount the C/Os on the lower links to give a better net wheel travel
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  #1541  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
lol yes and no... i want to drive it yes. do i want to debug all the issues again? no not really. LOL

I should have just done this...

new shock hoops
18" coil overs
3 link (passenger side upper) with 2.25" DOM
pan hard
jj's or heims

would have been so much easier.
Since you've re-done your exhaust Zach, do you have the necessary clearance on the passenger side for a 3-link with a passenger side upper?
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  #1542  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by 2002FX4 View Post
Since you've re-done your exhaust Zach, do you have the necessary clearance on the passenger side for a 3-link with a passenger side upper?

its higher than the frame so i should
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  #1543  
Old 05-04-2008
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very well thought out,zach your truck looks great full width,idk maybe mine hmmmm
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  #1544  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
zach they hard work is in place, switching the suspension setup now is all downhill.

looks good but why the blocks
they are there so the tires dont hit the bed... once i change some stuff up i will lower it 3 inches in the front and rear. you know the changes i believe but for now i need to protect that bed.
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  #1545  
Old 05-04-2008
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if it was not for that hard to deal with tone ring the desition would be easy to make
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  #1546  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
zach they hard work is in place, switching the suspension setup now is all downhill.

looks good but why the blocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
also, dont do 18 inchs coilovers. unless they now have a spring that would work, no spring is long enough and upon full droop, the spring can unmount and fall under the shock tube. not something you want to chance for only two extra inches...


If travel was REALLY an issue (dont know why that much is) then you can mount the C/Os on the lower links to give a better net wheel travel
ah i didnt know that. 16" would be more than enough im sure. but its too late for now, maybe i will do that later on


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Originally Posted by mazda98 View Post
very well thought out,zach your truck looks great full width,idk maybe mine hmmmm
thanks walt
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  #1547  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
ah i didnt know that. 16" would be more than enough im sure. but its too late for now, maybe i will do that later on
for how much youve dumped into the truck, a garnd for that new setup would be change...
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  #1548  
Old 05-04-2008
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Zach, what is your opinion on a drivers side upper (for a 3-link; upper going to the top of the diff)? I'm honestly start to re-think the radius arms I was gonna go with.. like I mentioned to you before, a 3-link with passenger upper for me isn't quite do-able with my current exhaust/cat setup. However I'm pondering a possible driver's side upper (for a 3-link).
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  #1549  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by 2002FX4 View Post
Zach, what is your opinion on a drivers side upper (for a 3-link; upper going to the top of the diff)? I'm honestly start to re-think the radius arms I was gonna go with.. like I mentioned to you before, a 3-link with passenger upper for me isn't quite do-able with my current exhaust/cat setup. However I'm pondering a possible driver's side upper (for a 3-link).
do it on the passenger side but run it to the lower link. kinda like my current arms just do it on one side. i have seen it done before.

Seems like the drivers side would be tight and you have to watch the fuel lines and such.
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  #1550  
Old 05-04-2008
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
for how much youve dumped into the truck, a garnd for that new setup would be change...
yeah you are probably right. i am on a deadline though. i only have 3 weeks before i am off too the dunes and the one weekend i wont even be home.
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