Zabeards SAS Thread - Page 69 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1701  
Old 05-12-2008
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done yet lol
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  #1702  
Old 05-12-2008
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I ran out of welding wire!

I was on a freaking roll too. Oh well time for bed i guess.

A little teaser though, it was sitting on its own weight for about and hour in the front. Probably should have gotten pictures but I didnt.

5" of up travel, Panhard bar is a probably too short but it will have to do for now, probably change it later.

I am waiting on shock tabs in the mail.

Need to shorten the front driveshaft :(
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  #1703  
Old 05-12-2008
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I am waiting on shock tabs in the mail.
make your own dude. making your own tabs saves a lot of money and once you get into the practice of it, it goes super easy and quick...

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Need to shorten the front driveshaft :(
make your own of that too. just knock the weld off between the yoke and the tube and cut appropriately. weld back on, but not in big sections so you dont distort...
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  #1704  
Old 05-12-2008
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I have made several of my own brackets but its just time consuming to make some, by the time you add in grinding wheel wear and gas from the torch it all equals out.

ON the driveshaft... idk its only going to be like 40 bucks to shorten it.
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  #1705  
Old 05-12-2008
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word, i forgot how cheap it is to retube driveshafts...

about the brackets, plasma cutter and drill press. brackets are FUN to make, IMO. sky's the limit on them...
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  #1706  
Old 05-12-2008
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yeah i dont have a plasma cutter, but i do have access to a water jet, that is the best IMO for bracket making. so precise and it even makes the holes for ya! But i need to learn how to run it so i am not waiting on someone else to make them
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  #1707  
Old 05-12-2008
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I ran out of welding wire!


LMAO
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  #1708  
Old 05-12-2008
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yeah i dont have a plasma cutter, but i do have access to a water jet, that is the best IMO for bracket making. so precise and it even makes the holes for ya! But i need to learn how to run it so i am not waiting on someone else to make them
i wouldnt call it the best, waterjets have deflection, laser cutting is the best for shizzle.

yeah its stupid easy. I could even set it up for you on mastercam if you told me how you wanted your brackets. When I did my waterjet class it took me maybe a day or so to learn to run it, the rest of the "learning" was cleaning it and repairing it.
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  #1709  
Old 05-12-2008
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Need to shorten the front driveshaft :(
Hey since your using that manual case with the other style output yoke could you take off the adapter on the d-shaft and it be the right length?

Just thought I'd throw that out there. I'm sure your probably already thought of it though.
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  #1710  
Old 05-12-2008
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Do you need to shorten the front drive shaft because of the change from LP to HP on the D44? Cause I figure you're keeping your wheel base basically the same..
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  #1711  
Old 05-13-2008
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I would figure its in the length of the diffs and he talks as if its not going to be so high this time...
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  #1712  
Old 05-13-2008
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Do you need to shorten the front drive shaft because of the change from LP to HP on the D44? Cause I figure you're keeping your wheel base basically the same..
as far as i know his d30 is/was HP.

i know he moved the upper coil mounts, so he might have changed the wheel base.
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  #1713  
Old 05-13-2008
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The Dana 30 has a smaller center section than the Dana 44 does. So the Dana 44 yoke is farther back than the Dana 30 yoke; it is only like an inch or so.
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  #1714  
Old 05-13-2008
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i wouldnt call it the best, waterjets have deflection, laser cutting is the best for shizzle.

yeah its stupid easy. I could even set it up for you on mastercam if you told me how you wanted your brackets. When I did my waterjet class it took me maybe a day or so to learn to run it, the rest of the "learning" was cleaning it and repairing it.
deflection huh? guess i never noticed, probably depends on the waterjet.

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Originally Posted by RazorsEDGE View Post
Hey since your using that manual case with the other style output yoke could you take off the adapter on the d-shaft and it be the right length?

Just thought I'd throw that out there. I'm sure your probably already thought of it though.
Oh yeah I have thought about, it might work but I really dont know what I am going to do with that whole thing. Didnt you wire up your tcase to make the lights on the dash work?

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Originally Posted by 2002FX4 View Post
Do you need to shorten the front drive shaft because of the change from LP to HP on the D44? Cause I figure you're keeping your wheel base basically the same..
Both are HP, but like Maurice and Gil said its the length of the pumpkin, id say its probably 2" longer.

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I would figure its in the length of the diffs and he talks as if its not going to be so high this time...
yep, and i tried to make it lower but it just was not working, so its a bit taller for now.

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Originally Posted by 5speedin2.3 View Post
as far as i know his d30 is/was HP.

i know he moved the upper coil mounts, so he might have changed the wheel base.
Wheelbase should be the same, I guess I never checked it though. LOL

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Originally Posted by lifted97ranger View Post
The Dana 30 has a smaller center section than the Dana 44 does. So the Dana 44 yoke is farther back than the Dana 30 yoke; it is only like an inch or so.
Yep between 1-2 inches id say.
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  #1715  
Old 05-13-2008
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Didnt you wire up your tcase to make the lights on the dash work?

Yeah I sure did, with a little help from Bob. Here is the pm he sent me when I asked for help figuring out where I needed my wires to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
There are two pins at the T/C, one for 4x4 and one for 4x4 LOW. Which is which you would need to find out by trial and error. These pins go to ground when the mode is selected. So, all you need to do is run the 2 wires from the cluster down to the T/C switch.

Find connector C220a - it is the longest one at the cluster with spaces for 16 pins. Run one wire from pin 2 and one wire from pin 3 down to the switch, figure out which is which and you should be good to go. Just check to be sure that there is an orange/black in pin 5 of the same connector. It is the hot power feed for the two 4x4 bulbs and it should already be there because it also feeds a couple of other bulbs besides the 4x4 lights.

Bob

And here is the part # for the t-case harness, I believe Ford charged me $28 for it: 3u2z-14s411-VBA
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  #1716  
Old 05-13-2008
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What year Tcase did you use? Or does it not matter? This manual Tcase has several connectors on it, where my current electric case only has 1
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  #1717  
Old 05-13-2008
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Eh scratch that, you got yours from Bob I see. Your is much newer, I doubt the lights are going to work.
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  #1718  
Old 05-13-2008
04 EDGE
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are you talking about the shift motor zach or dose it have another plug on it?

if your stock one has the sensor on the top then you will have to do nothing but plug the manual one in and your dash lights will work.
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  #1719  
Old 05-13-2008
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deflection huh? guess i never noticed, probably depends on the waterjet.
no they all have it, but it depends on cutting speed versus thickness/material. torches and plasmas do it to...
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  #1720  
Old 05-13-2008
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Beard I don't think the year of the case matters as long as its a 1354. If I remember correctly Mark's case was a 1354 out of a '92 explorer and it had the same light switch as mine which came out of an '03 level II.

I'm not sure how the electric cases trigger the lights though since I've never dealt with an electric case, but I assume they don't have the same switch as the manual cases. I figure it would be easier to just run the 2 new wires. When I wired mine up it took all of half an hour to do it(not including pulling the cluster of course).

What kind of connectors are on your case Beard? That year of case should have the speed sensor next to the rear output of the case and the 4x4 switch should be on the front next to the shift lever. I'm not aware of any other electrical parts on the manual cases.


I'll try to grab you a picture of the 4x4 switch on my case so you can compare it to yours.
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  #1721  
Old 05-13-2008
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Here's some pics of what mine looks like with the harness unplugged of course. Sorry for the bad quality of the pics but its kind of a tight spot to be getting the camera into.

BTW I think the switch is the same but if its not you can go to the local dealer and look through their book of connectors. Thats how I found what harness I needed for the t-case.


Edit: I went back and looked at the pic you posted of your case but its hard to tell if the switch is the same because it looks like the end cap of the harness is still on it.



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  #1722  
Old 05-13-2008
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I think this is it right here. I will have to check my electric case but I thought it only had one plug in it.

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  #1723  
Old 05-13-2008
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Originally Posted by 04 EDGE View Post
are you talking about the shift motor zach or dose it have another plug on it?

if your stock one has the sensor on the top then you will have to do nothing but plug the manual one in and your dash lights will work.
i am not sure if the electric cases have that plug.
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  #1724  
Old 05-13-2008
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Yes Beard that is the switch for the lights. I can't tell if its the same though because from the pic it looks like the connector piece from the wire harness is still connected.

I'm pretty sure the electric case doesn't have that switch. I believe it triggers the 4x4 lights using the mess of wires coming out of the shift motor. Since the electric case doesn't have that switch you'd need to get the harness to hook up the 4x4 lights, unless of course you can salvage the plug thats still on your manual case.
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  #1725  
Old 05-13-2008
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Yeah that plug is trashed, I have an 03 wiring diagram book at home, I will see if maybe i can just tap the correct wires that are already there to make it work. I always forget I have that book

Thanks for clarifying all that
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