94 OHV sputtering under load!
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94 OHV sputtering under load!
I've done tons of reading online and I'm having trouble finding the problem.
i got the truck for absolutely nothing and put a new A4LD in it and haven't touched it in two years. For the last few months it's started to have problems. When it first starts up it does it everytime no problem, idles well most of the time , full rev range in park. I put it in drive, especially when it's cold, and it hesistates and sputters, won't really move, if you absolutely mash the pedal to the floor, all of a sudden it runs like a scolded dog until you let off the pedal a bit and then it falls back into a limp mode kinda, had trouble accelerating, very underpowered, and now sometimes when it comes to a stop it'll shake and lurch, seems the oil pressure gauge has something to do with it because when the gauge falls down towards the N in "normal" it's very underpowered, then when the needle gets back to the middle or better it seems the truck drives fine.
ive replaced spark plugs. (Got rid of pinging under heavy load)
replaced fuel filter, which there was no built up pressure, the tank leaks from the filler neck.
Swapped MAF and IAC 3 times a piece.
swapped TPS once, seemed to help for a few days.
also cleaned the maf, intake, and IAC
I also have 3 coil packs I've swapped around to no avail. Plug wires are newer, 1.5 years.
The codes i get when not running are
565 canister purge solenoid fault
10 problem in cylinder 1 during balance test.
177c HEGO sensor fault, always rich.
NOTE: I've had 565 and 10 codes forever
I'll get running codes when the truck gets back tonight, thanks for reading and appreciate any help!! Also curious about "DPFE" I think this may be a culprit as well but don't know what it stands for lol!
i got the truck for absolutely nothing and put a new A4LD in it and haven't touched it in two years. For the last few months it's started to have problems. When it first starts up it does it everytime no problem, idles well most of the time , full rev range in park. I put it in drive, especially when it's cold, and it hesistates and sputters, won't really move, if you absolutely mash the pedal to the floor, all of a sudden it runs like a scolded dog until you let off the pedal a bit and then it falls back into a limp mode kinda, had trouble accelerating, very underpowered, and now sometimes when it comes to a stop it'll shake and lurch, seems the oil pressure gauge has something to do with it because when the gauge falls down towards the N in "normal" it's very underpowered, then when the needle gets back to the middle or better it seems the truck drives fine.
ive replaced spark plugs. (Got rid of pinging under heavy load)
replaced fuel filter, which there was no built up pressure, the tank leaks from the filler neck.
Swapped MAF and IAC 3 times a piece.
swapped TPS once, seemed to help for a few days.
also cleaned the maf, intake, and IAC
I also have 3 coil packs I've swapped around to no avail. Plug wires are newer, 1.5 years.
The codes i get when not running are
565 canister purge solenoid fault
10 problem in cylinder 1 during balance test.
177c HEGO sensor fault, always rich.
NOTE: I've had 565 and 10 codes forever
I'll get running codes when the truck gets back tonight, thanks for reading and appreciate any help!! Also curious about "DPFE" I think this may be a culprit as well but don't know what it stands for lol!
Last edited by 94OHV; Aug 8, 2017 at 07:51 AM.
Welcome to the forum
EVAP system sucks air from gas tank thru charcoal canister and into the intake while engine is running, 565 may mean the electric solenoid that the computer uses to do this is bad.
It will be in the engine bay, find the charcoal canister on rad support and follow its hose going toward the engine, other hose goes to gas tank, on the hose to the engine you will find the solenoid, test with ohm meter, or apply 12volts and ground it should "click" open
This wouldn't cause your running issues
DPFE is part of EGR(exhaust gas re-circulation) system, 1994 4.0l shouldn't have an EGR system unless vehicle was from Calif.
Look on both exhaust manifolds for a metal tube running up to intake manifold and EGR valve.
If you have this then yes, the EGR valve could be stuck open and cause very poor idling and engine running in general.
On the lower intake behind alternator is the FPR(fuel pressure regulator), it will have a fuel line connected, the Return line to gas tank
It will also have a Vacuum Hose connected, remove this vacuum hose and check for gasoline
If FPR leaks raw gas can be sucked in to the intake thru the vacuum hose causing rich running, code 177
Replace FPR if it is leaking.
What did the old spark plugs tell you?
Rich running is darker brown/black coloring
Pinging under load is Lean running
On the lower intake just above thermostat housing you will see two temperature sensing devices
ECT sensor has TWO WIRES, it tells computer the coolant temp, so the computer knows when engine is cold and it will run the engine in Choke Mode, Rich and High idle
Temp SENDER has ONE WIRE, it is hooked up to dash temp gauge
ECT sensor is about $6, I would replace it on speculation, it can be tested but, replacing for $6 would take it off the table as possible problem
EVAP system sucks air from gas tank thru charcoal canister and into the intake while engine is running, 565 may mean the electric solenoid that the computer uses to do this is bad.
It will be in the engine bay, find the charcoal canister on rad support and follow its hose going toward the engine, other hose goes to gas tank, on the hose to the engine you will find the solenoid, test with ohm meter, or apply 12volts and ground it should "click" open
This wouldn't cause your running issues
DPFE is part of EGR(exhaust gas re-circulation) system, 1994 4.0l shouldn't have an EGR system unless vehicle was from Calif.
Look on both exhaust manifolds for a metal tube running up to intake manifold and EGR valve.
If you have this then yes, the EGR valve could be stuck open and cause very poor idling and engine running in general.
On the lower intake behind alternator is the FPR(fuel pressure regulator), it will have a fuel line connected, the Return line to gas tank
It will also have a Vacuum Hose connected, remove this vacuum hose and check for gasoline
If FPR leaks raw gas can be sucked in to the intake thru the vacuum hose causing rich running, code 177
Replace FPR if it is leaking.
What did the old spark plugs tell you?
Rich running is darker brown/black coloring
Pinging under load is Lean running
On the lower intake just above thermostat housing you will see two temperature sensing devices
ECT sensor has TWO WIRES, it tells computer the coolant temp, so the computer knows when engine is cold and it will run the engine in Choke Mode, Rich and High idle
Temp SENDER has ONE WIRE, it is hooked up to dash temp gauge
ECT sensor is about $6, I would replace it on speculation, it can be tested but, replacing for $6 would take it off the table as possible problem
Last edited by RonD; Aug 8, 2017 at 11:06 AM.
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From: Indianapolis
Welcome to the forum
EVAP system sucks air from gas tank thru charcoal canister and into the intake while engine is running, 565 may mean the electric solenoid that the computer uses to do this is bad.
It will be in the engine bay, find the on ra d support and follow its hose going toward the engine, other hose goes to gas tank, on the hose to the engine you will find the solenoid, test with ohm meter, or apply 12volts and ground it should "click" open
This wouldn't cause your running issues
DPFE is part of EGR(exhaust gas re-circulation) system, 1994 4.0l shouldn't have an EGR system unless vehicle was from Calif.
Look on both exhaust manifolds for a metal tube running up to intake manifold and EGR valve.
If you have this then yes, the EGR valve could be stuck open and cause very poor idling and engine running in general.
On the lower intake behind alternator is the FPR(fuel pressure regulator), it will have a fuel line connected, the Return line to gas tank
It will also have a Vacuum Hose connected, remove this vacuum hose and check for gasoline
If FPR leaks raw gas can be sucked in to the intake thru the vacuum hose causing rich running, code 177
Replace FPR if it is leaking.
What did the old spark plugs tell you?
Rich running is darker brown/black coloring
Pinging under load is Lean running
On the lower intake just above thermostat housing you will see two temperature sensing devices
ECT sensor has TWO WIRES, it tells computer the coolant temp, so the computer knows when engine is cold and it will run the engine in Choke Mode, Rich and High idle
Temp SENDER has ONE WIRE, it is hooked up to dash temp gauge
ECT sensor is about $6, I would replace it on speculation, it can be tested but, replacing for $6 would take it off the table as possible problem
EVAP system sucks air from gas tank thru charcoal canister and into the intake while engine is running, 565 may mean the electric solenoid that the computer uses to do this is bad.
It will be in the engine bay, find the on ra d support and follow its hose going toward the engine, other hose goes to gas tank, on the hose to the engine you will find the solenoid, test with ohm meter, or apply 12volts and ground it should "click" open
This wouldn't cause your running issues
DPFE is part of EGR(exhaust gas re-circulation) system, 1994 4.0l shouldn't have an EGR system unless vehicle was from Calif.
Look on both exhaust manifolds for a metal tube running up to intake manifold and EGR valve.
If you have this then yes, the EGR valve could be stuck open and cause very poor idling and engine running in general.
On the lower intake behind alternator is the FPR(fuel pressure regulator), it will have a fuel line connected, the Return line to gas tank
It will also have a Vacuum Hose connected, remove this vacuum hose and check for gasoline
If FPR leaks raw gas can be sucked in to the intake thru the vacuum hose causing rich running, code 177
Replace FPR if it is leaking.
What did the old spark plugs tell you?
Rich running is darker brown/black coloring
Pinging under load is Lean running
On the lower intake just above thermostat housing you will see two temperature sensing devices
ECT sensor has TWO WIRES, it tells computer the coolant temp, so the computer knows when engine is cold and it will run the engine in Choke Mode, Rich and High idle
Temp SENDER has ONE WIRE, it is hooked up to dash temp gauge
ECT sensor is about $6, I would replace it on speculation, it can be tested but, replacing for $6 would take it off the table as possible problem
Running codes are : 412, 159, 536, 538
key on codes: 157, 158, 176, 177, 565
the MAF sensor keeps testing bad? But I have 3 from the junkyard here and none of them is solving that problem. I also disconnected vaccum hose on FPR and did find moisture, with the car running and finger plugging the FPR I get a ring of moisture on my finger. is there a chance all three of my MAF sensors are bad? I believe they all came off explorer 4.0s. If the FPR was sucking in gas, would that cause a poorly responsive pedal? as far as the ECT sensor I don't have a problem swapping that as well. And could the computer still think it's a bad MAF if I replaced with a good one and didn't reset computer long enough? I touched the positive and negative but I still had stored codes. Thanks for all the advice !
You should list what each code is
157 (MAF)Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded
158 MAF sensor is/was high or short to power
This means MAF wiring issue not MAF sensor issue, test the wires
read here, look for TESTING: Ford Ranger Mass Air Flow Cleaning, Removal and Installation
Use two needles, sewing pins, to tap the wires for testing with Volt Meter while engine is running
159 MAF sensor is/was out of range
This would be a MAF sensor issue but....................
...if wiring is bad then it WOULD BE out of range
176 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left(drivers side)
177 Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left(drivers side)
These are Fuel injector codes, any Lean or Rich code is about fuel injector open time
How old are the O2 sensors, 125k miles is the limit for these.
Having BOTH Lean and Rich on one bank of a V6 is odd
What did the old spark plugs show, Lean or Rich?
412 Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low)
If you changed the IAC Valve then this could be a left over
536 Brake On Off open or shorted to ground
This is a TEST where YOU have to press down and then release brake pedal, so ignore it
538 System did not receive "goose" test, another TEST where YOU push down gas pedal to the floor and then release it, so ignore it
And just to add your computer may have packed it in, I would pull it out and open it up
Should look like this inside: Ford EEC-IV
not like this: https://www.f150forum.com/attachment...set-eec-2-.jpg
Capacitor leaked and shorted the circuit board
This would explain all the codes and poor running
Removing battery negative for 30 seconds should be enough to clear all the codes, if they come back right away then I would open up that computer before wasting anymore time on other things
157 (MAF)Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded
158 MAF sensor is/was high or short to power
This means MAF wiring issue not MAF sensor issue, test the wires
read here, look for TESTING: Ford Ranger Mass Air Flow Cleaning, Removal and Installation
Use two needles, sewing pins, to tap the wires for testing with Volt Meter while engine is running
159 MAF sensor is/was out of range
This would be a MAF sensor issue but....................
...if wiring is bad then it WOULD BE out of range
176 Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left(drivers side)
177 Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left(drivers side)
These are Fuel injector codes, any Lean or Rich code is about fuel injector open time
How old are the O2 sensors, 125k miles is the limit for these.
Having BOTH Lean and Rich on one bank of a V6 is odd
What did the old spark plugs show, Lean or Rich?
412 Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low)
If you changed the IAC Valve then this could be a left over
536 Brake On Off open or shorted to ground
This is a TEST where YOU have to press down and then release brake pedal, so ignore it
538 System did not receive "goose" test, another TEST where YOU push down gas pedal to the floor and then release it, so ignore it
And just to add your computer may have packed it in, I would pull it out and open it up
Should look like this inside: Ford EEC-IV
not like this: https://www.f150forum.com/attachment...set-eec-2-.jpg
Capacitor leaked and shorted the circuit board
This would explain all the codes and poor running
Removing battery negative for 30 seconds should be enough to clear all the codes, if they come back right away then I would open up that computer before wasting anymore time on other things
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The O2 sensors are old for sure, never touched in my ownership or previous ownership. I'll have to check the wiring to the MaF sensor, the vehicle needs to be running does it also need to be plugging in to check wiring? Because the truck doesn't like the MaF sensor that's in it right now, I suspect the explorers have a slightly different One would this cause my wiring problem? Where's the computer and located and I'll tear it out? And I appreciate your helpful and timely responses! I use to be on the ranger station but I can't get the website to send me a new password lol.
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I let it sit all night with the battery unplugged from both terminals and when I hooked it up and hooked up scan tool, it still pulled the same 565 and 10 codes, plus a 512(keep alive memory test failure) code. Then I tried starting it and pulling codes and now without throttle response it won't even stay running with or without MAF plugged in. Did not let it run until it got to operating temperature. It's spitting and sputtering even at idle now, where it used to idle like a champ. Hope this information helps !
Pull the computer and open it up
Video here on where and how: www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw4ODEs_xrw
And then you can also check the wires at the computer for problems, see previous link Ford EEC-IV
You can only test MAF with engine running, but like you said 3 MAFs tested would point to another issue not the MAF
Explorer 4.0l used same MAF, 1995 and up used 6 wire MAF, the Intake air temp sensor was moved to MAF in 1995, that's the extra 2 wires, but the 4 wire MAF itself never changed
Video here on where and how: www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw4ODEs_xrw
And then you can also check the wires at the computer for problems, see previous link Ford EEC-IV
You can only test MAF with engine running, but like you said 3 MAFs tested would point to another issue not the MAF
Explorer 4.0l used same MAF, 1995 and up used 6 wire MAF, the Intake air temp sensor was moved to MAF in 1995, that's the extra 2 wires, but the 4 wire MAF itself never changed
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Okay so I pulled out the computer and i found what looks to be two failed resistors ?
http://www.imageno.com/9kt39a9elxuupic.html
http://www.imageno.com/gbirdd0i8upopic.html
im sure this is a good indication the computer is bad, but what would be my next step? Trying to solder new resisters? replace the computer all together? And if so, what are the requirements to insure I get the right computer for my truck? Thanks again in advance!
And I also keep forgetting to mention, the plugs were dark when I pulled them
http://www.imageno.com/9kt39a9elxuupic.html
http://www.imageno.com/gbirdd0i8upopic.html
im sure this is a good indication the computer is bad, but what would be my next step? Trying to solder new resisters? replace the computer all together? And if so, what are the requirements to insure I get the right computer for my truck? Thanks again in advance!
And I also keep forgetting to mention, the plugs were dark when I pulled them
Last edited by 94OHV; Aug 9, 2017 at 05:19 PM.
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bump, still need some information, I've looked around and found no definite answers, my computer is definitely bad, burned up resistors, my only question now is , what are the requirenents for a replacement computer? The junkyard isn't very local and I don't want to waste time swapping computers.
can I just find another 94 4.0 2wd and given the board looks good will it work? The cars been sitting 5 days now so any information would be greatly appreciated !
can I just find another 94 4.0 2wd and given the board looks good will it work? The cars been sitting 5 days now so any information would be greatly appreciated !
Those are capacitors, and yes that is a problem, might be the only problem but no way to know that until they are replaced.
Capacitors stabilize voltage, they store higher voltage and release it if voltage drops, when using Sensors that use voltage to tell computer engine status, i.e. air flow, air temp, engine temp, lean/rich, ect...... STABLE voltage is a must have.
You can try replacing them, there may be a 3rd one, replace it as well.
Seen here: Ford EEC-IV
The capacitors have a fluid inside and it can leak out after 20 years or so and that's what has happened, if you replace them clean the circuit board in that area before soldering in new ones
Replacement
2WD or 4WD won't matter
Manual or automatic WILL matter
1993 or 1994 4.0l computer will work, from automatic equipped Ranger or Mazda B-4000 to work with your A4LD
Part number will start with F3 or F4, that's 1993 and 1994, F = 199
Then 7F, that's Ranger/electrical
So Your current computer should have F47F, for 1994 Ranger
Then 12A650, this is Ford's generic part number for vehicle computers, still used in 2017, any Ford vehicle will use 12A650 part number for its computer
F37F-12A650
or
F47F-12A650
Are 1993 and 1994 Ranger/Mazda computers
The numbers/letters after that are important but Ford never released a decoder for them, but they will ID a computer with manual or automatic software inside
Cardone sells re-manufactured ECUs
They can use your VIN to get you the correct model
You don't want Calif. model as it would need EGR valve and Cam sensor on the engine, you should use Federal, no EGR, no CPS
Capacitors stabilize voltage, they store higher voltage and release it if voltage drops, when using Sensors that use voltage to tell computer engine status, i.e. air flow, air temp, engine temp, lean/rich, ect...... STABLE voltage is a must have.
You can try replacing them, there may be a 3rd one, replace it as well.
Seen here: Ford EEC-IV
The capacitors have a fluid inside and it can leak out after 20 years or so and that's what has happened, if you replace them clean the circuit board in that area before soldering in new ones
Replacement
2WD or 4WD won't matter
Manual or automatic WILL matter
1993 or 1994 4.0l computer will work, from automatic equipped Ranger or Mazda B-4000 to work with your A4LD
Part number will start with F3 or F4, that's 1993 and 1994, F = 199
Then 7F, that's Ranger/electrical
So Your current computer should have F47F, for 1994 Ranger
Then 12A650, this is Ford's generic part number for vehicle computers, still used in 2017, any Ford vehicle will use 12A650 part number for its computer
F37F-12A650
or
F47F-12A650
Are 1993 and 1994 Ranger/Mazda computers
The numbers/letters after that are important but Ford never released a decoder for them, but they will ID a computer with manual or automatic software inside
Cardone sells re-manufactured ECUs
They can use your VIN to get you the correct model
You don't want Calif. model as it would need EGR valve and Cam sensor on the engine, you should use Federal, no EGR, no CPS
Last edited by RonD; Aug 14, 2017 at 10:22 AM.
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Okay so I went a pulled a hand full of computers and they all had capacitor wear or damage , I don't want to swap junk for junk, but I'm having trouble finding the capacitors to replace them.
(One) 10 microfarad 63 volt
(Two) 47 microfarad 16 volt
Any chance you guys would know where to find them locally ? Or the best place to find them online ? I thought I found what I needed by the 16v capacitors were only rated to 85 Celsius and not 105 like the originals . Thanks again for the swift response!
(One) 10 microfarad 63 volt
(Two) 47 microfarad 16 volt
Any chance you guys would know where to find them locally ? Or the best place to find them online ? I thought I found what I needed by the 16v capacitors were only rated to 85 Celsius and not 105 like the originals . Thanks again for the swift response!
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Posts: 2,022
Likes: 44
From: BC Canada
CAPACITOR 63V 10uf Pack of 3, Electronix
CAPACITOR 160V 47uf Pack of 2, Electronix
It doesn't matter if the voltage rating is higher then you need, they just get bigger in size, what matters is the capacitance rating.
CAPACITOR 160V 47uf Pack of 2, Electronix
It doesn't matter if the voltage rating is higher then you need, they just get bigger in size, what matters is the capacitance rating.
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