Hello!
I just bought a 2000 Ranger P/U 3.0 - auto. Previous owner stated engine had a severe knock. He had a dead battery in it with jumper cables trying to start it. It was turning over (dragging) but did not start.

I had it towed to my office. I poured some gas in it and put in a hot battery. Fuel pump runs, engine turns over, does not start. Sprayed either in throttlebody, did not fire. Assuming there is no spark.

Looking for direction to proceed in. All help is appreciated...thanks in advance.

 

This truck has the 3.0 Vulcan. I think.

 

Welcome to the forum

Yes, 3.0l Vulcan engine

With key on does the CEL(check engine light) come on?
If not then no computer, and no spark....or fuel

If CEL comes on........then watch it when you crank the engine, CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is spinning, that means computer is getting a good timing signal from the Crank sensor, so it will start spark and then fuel injectors
If CEL stays on then no spark and no fuel

 

Hello Ron, Thanks!

Went over to get codes, I guess since I been disconnecting the battery....there weren't any.
However, when the ignition switch is turned on CEL comes on, and the fuel pump runs momentarily.
I cant remember, but I think when it turns over, CEL stays off & Oil Pressure goes up.
Engine does not fire, even with an either shot.

I have been working in dealerships and garages off and on all my life. I just need some direction or some flow charts on the ignition system would help greatly.

 

2000 has the EEC-V computer so OBD2 and the spark system you can check is the Coil Pack that's all there is
It has 4 wires, 3 coils inside
One wire is red and should have 12volts with key on, the other 3 wires are the grounds for each coil which run back to the computer
Its a Waste Spark system, each coil sparks 2 spark plugs in series, so one spark is "wasted", hence the name
Pairs are 1/5, 2/6, 3/4, these pairs are at TDC at the same time to balance the engine, one on compression stroke and one on exhaust stroke

Coil pack wiring can look odd because of this, lol
3 4
2 6
1 5
front
or
1 2 3
5 6 4
front

There is a Radio noise suppressor on the red 12v wire, usually bolted to one of the coil packs bolts, its just a one wire condenser/capacitor, grounded by the bolt, its possible if is lowering voltage but a longshot, but easy to unplug its connector is on the red wire at the coil pack

The computer uses the Crank sensor to time spark, its located at the front of the engine down next to the crank pulley
2 wire sensor that generates its own AC voltage, a VR sensor
A metal tone ring on the back of the crank pulley/balancer has 35 teeth, and one gap, missing tooth, as the tone ring spins past the crank sensor it generates a sine save(AC volts) when each tooth passes by
The gap is #1 TDC
And when computer "sees" the AC volts it will start spark based on the timing of the gap, no signal, no start, there is no connection between Starter motor system and computer
When computer "sees" a valid timing signal from crank sensor it will turn off the CEL, so its important to see that

While rare, its possible for crank pulley to slip, shear off the woodruff key, which would throw off spark timing
If you have a old time timing light you can check if there is spark at #1 and also if it matches timing marks

Another thing you can check is a spark plug tip
Crank engine over a few times and pull out any easy to get at spark plug, its tip should be WET with fuel, if its DRY no timing signal
If its WET light the tip with a match/lighter, should burn fast and bright, its fuel, if it doesn't burn easily it ain't fuel any more, and that WILL foul startup even if you add your own fuel(ether)

 

So, basically if I turn ignition on, fuel pump runs momentarily and CEL illuminates, when motor starts turning over CEL goes off....if I have 12vdc at the 4 pin connector on coil...I have a bad coil?
And if I dont have 12vdc at the 4 pin connector on the coil, then check the 25 amp ignition fuse...in the fuse box I'm guessing under the hood, on driver side?

 

There are 3 coils in the coil pack, the odds of all 3 coils failing at the same time are very very high, you can lose 1 coil but engine would still start, even with 2 coils failed engine would fire
It is possible for the 12v connection inside the coil pack to fail, disabling all 3 coils, never read about that happening but its "possible"

The 12v power for coil pack comes from Cab fuse box Fuse #19, 25amp, but its the same fuse that turns on the PCM relay and that powers up the computer(CEL on)
Its possible the coil packs 12v wire is damaged between fuse 19 and the coil, but if CEL comes on fuse 19 is OK

Assuming you have 12v key on at the coil pack, you can unplug the coil pack then put a 12v test light on the 12v wire and any 1 of the other 3 wires, key on the test light should come on, that one coil is grounded, crank the engine, test light should flash rapidly if computer is ungrounding that coil, which causes the spark

If no pulse then either computer is bad or no timing pulse

 

Well, thought I'd post my findings for the Ranger. Went back to my office today and checked voltage at coil Pack Plug. Had 12vdc. So I tried starting the engine,and it somewhat started. To me it sounded like it might have broken a rod. It is skipping badly and sounds like the mains are squeaking, maybe. At any event, It is going to wait till spring or summer to overhaul the engine.

The guy I bought it from said he didn't run it hot. But I seem to think he did. Looks like a newer radiator (looks like it was installed, without flushing system). No coolant in the coolant tank, gallon of water in a jug in the back & a new thermostat in the seat (for a 4cyl) & this is a 3.0L.Vulcan.

So, I guess it will wait till warm weather.

Thanks for all your help RonD!!

 

If HE brought up "never ran it hot" then you can be sure it was run hot, lol

 

No, I plainly asked him did he run it hot, or when the knocking started was it overheated? He replied no, It never ran hot it just started knocking. I just hope I dont have to buy a core to rebuild. At least he said it will have to have the motor rebuilt, or another engine.

I just hope the rest is in good shape.

 

Will a 91 ford explorer 4.0 fit my 2000 Ranger? I am thinking too old. If so...could somebody point me in the direction on years and enginesthat would be plug and play?

 

Ranger and Explorers used the same 4.0l OHV engine from 1990-2000, they are interchangeable as long as you swap upper and lower intake manifolds to match fuel and wiring hook ups
So yes, 1991 Explorer 4.0l OHV engine will work in a 2000 Ranger with 4.0l OHV engine


Just FYI
1997-2000 Explorers had optional 4.0l SOHC, so not the same engine, 2001-2011 Rangers only had the 4.0l SOHC

 

My 2000 ranger came with a 3.0L. If I change the intakes will it still work? (The 4.0L 1991 exploter?)

 

No, it also will not bolt to the transmission and you would need a different computer and engine wiring harness, so not a good swap idea

 

Probably going to play it safe. When this engine started, I heard maybe a main bearing squeaking and also I heard a hard knock...like maybe a rod was broke, and when the crank comes around....it hits the rod.
When it is cranking, the knocking noise is mostly not heard. So when I get ready to pull the engine, I will pull all the plugs and do a compression test to see if I have a cylinder without compression.

However, if I cant have this engine rebuilt, I will buy a good 3.0L core, and have it rebuilt.

 

3.0l Vulcan didn't change much in its life, 1986 thru 2008, article here on that: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-3-0l-build/

Most of the changes are internal so don't effect swapping in one year to another year, long block swap
The valves are the same size but the valve STEMS are smaller starting in mid-1999, so different valve guides and springs
Flex fuel and gas only did have head cavity differences, but people who have swapped these around have noticed no drive-ability issues either way

 

Going to try swapping a '97 3.0L "U" Long Block into my 2000 Ford Ranger. Any and all help welcome.

 

You will need to change the head gaskets to Ranger style
The Taurus 3.0l Vulcan was mounted sideways in engine bay so coolant flow thru the block and heads is different than Ranger 3.0ls front to back to front flow

 

Read articles on valve springs and stems different sizes berween engines. Also camshaft grind in ranger engine for more torque. Taurus cam grind for more gas mileage.

Wondering if I should change heads & cam/lifters?

 

Taurus/Sable 3.0l Vulcan has more horsepower because of cam only, for better highway speeds
Ranger/B-series 3.0l Vulcan has more torque because of cam only, for hauling loads and trailers
Yes, you can swap the cams around

By year they used the same heads, so same valves and valve springs and lifters