Hello,

Apologies for the long post ahead but I figure I lay out all the info I can now; I am just a home mechanic hoping to figure out what is going on prior to it going to a shop.

I have an 1994 b2300 5spd 2wd with 270 000km.

I am having an occasional no start issue, which usually will last a couple hours (aslong as you don’t keep trying to start it) until it starts again.

When I bought the truck at 240km, it did have this issue where it would not start very rarely (usually after a accidental stall in the mornings, but not always), but it would usually fire up within 15-30 minutes, now the problem is much much worse and happening much more often.

I have replaced over the year I’ve owned the truck:

- spark plugs & wires
- ignition control module
- two ignition coil packs
- starter (new)
- starter solenoid (new)
- alternator (used)
- fuel pump full assembly (most recent, new)
- fuel pump relay (new)
- fuel filter (new at 240km)
- clutch & slave cylinder (new)
- battery terminals (new)

Now for diagnosis, I have:

- tested for fuel pressure at the rail, there IS fuel pressure loss slowly, so I prime the key 3 times prior to starting the vehicle which helps when starting

- confirmed the fuel pressure loss is coming from the rail as I hooked up a gauge to the fuel filter and it held steady, I am assuming leaking injectors but have not looked any further

- I have tested the fuel pressure regulator simply by unhooking the vacuum line while testing for pressure at the rail, it did change roughly 10psi (which apparently means the regulator is working)

- I did test for spark on ONE spark plug (l exhaust manifold side as these plugs are the ones that start the vehicle) using a screwdriver and it did have spark. I did not test the others as I got a good zap from that 😂 but I did buy a inline spark plug tester but have not tested the other 3 exhaust side spark plugs yet

- tried starting by jumping the solenoid, no luck

- opened the air intake and sprayed starter fluid BUT I don’t know if I sprayed enough, no luck but I am not 100% sure I did it right


I find it I don’t hold the key long enough while starting, it will end up f’ing up and then it will produce the problem, then give it a little rest for a couple hours and it will start. I have been holding the key on and literally making sure the engine RPMs kick in before letting off the key, but that doesn’t do the trick much now.

I do have a voltmeter but haven’t dug into that much yet, and it is very annoying as when I have time on the weekend to dig into it, the problem wont occur.

Sometimes I can predict that it may not start on me next time I turn it off as the starts seem to be getting weaker, it has like these weird hard start's, not so much the starter turning over and over but the engine itself struggles to get going. Somewhat hard to explain so I did attach a video of what it sounds like when it’s NOT starting.

I’m wondering if it is a ground issue possibly? I just don’t even know anymore. It seems electrical but I just don’t know, again I’m not a mechanic. I have checked the inertia switch and it is not popped when this happens.


I’ll update as I remember anymore info and thank you in advance if you have read this far.

Welcome to the forum

I assume "No start" in this thread means starter motor works but engine doesn't start

You should have a CEL(check engine light) in a 1994
It should come on with key on, that means computer has booted up, no CEL no computer and no start

If CEL comes on then when you activated starter motor and engine begins to spin the CEL should go OF, this means computer is getting a Timing Pulse from the Crank Sensor via the ICM(ignition control module)
You mentioned having to "crank engine long enough" and maybe not seeing RPM on tach while cranking, the RPM IS the timing pulse, and no timing pulse means no spark and not fuel injectors

Next time you have a No Start, do the 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine, gasoline, Quick start(ether), carb cleaner, brake cleaner, ect.................
If engine starts and dies you have a fuel delivery issue
If engine doesn't start/fire then its a Spark issue
50/50 instant results not wondering

Fuel pressure doesn't mean fuel in the engine
Spark at a spark plug doesn't mean "spark" full time
50/50 test

1989-1994 2.3l engines used ICM(ignition control module) common failure when older, and can be intermittant
It's located on front of lower intake, has 2 wire harnesses connected

Crank sensors usually are not intermittent, possible, but way way down on the list

Thanks for the quick response, much appreciated.

I forgot to mention the ignition control module was replaced, BUT I can’t remember if it was used or new. I am going to call and find out tomorrow. If it’s used then I may consider replacing it.

I edited my original post, but I have tried to spray starter fluid into the intake as I tried to start the engine via solenoid, that did nothing but I am going to try it again tonight as I have someone who can try starting it while I spray.

I’m headed down to the truck now which died a few hours ago, I’m going to test all 4 spark plugs with a wire & try starter fluid again. Who knows, it might just fire right up, it has been a few hours.

If I remember correctly, the CEL does light up key on engine off, and does turn off when trying to turn the key. So that to me would sound like the PCM is indeed working?


Also what I meant by cranking the key awhile, I just noticed that aslong as I turn the key long enough and visibly verify that the engine is getting going by looking at the RPMs increase to just under 1000, that I had better luck getting it started and I wouldn’t be stranded. The opposite would be as if in for example a newer vehicle, you can just turn the key for a quick second and it starts. Sometimes that would result in a failed start and then having the issue.

I have not looked into compression either yet.

edit: as usual it fired up, I’ll have to wait until the next time it messes up to diagnose the spark plugs, and retry the starter fluid. I will follow up with the response if the ICM is new or old.

If it doesn't start with 50/50 test then its a Spark issue for sure, no need to test each spark plug

Not compression, as that is not "self repairing", if its a compression issue then No Start....................until its repaired

Watch that CEL when cranking